Rear Brakes!!
                    (I want to be safe, from other bad drivers...Women...)

PICTURES SOON!!!
 

Welcome, I am going to go through the basics, and give you some hints.
I ordered my parts from California Imports, they have some very good prices and are very nice to work with.

The cost:
                Item                                            # of them                      $Cost$
#1    Rear wheel cylinders (22mm)                  2 of course                 $11.99 Ea.
#2    Rear axle seal kit                                 2 if needed*               $2.95 Ea.
#3    HOSES**                                             2                                $9.95 Ea.
#4    Shoes???(Might not need these, I didn't)                1 set of 4                   $23.95 a Set
#5    Spring Set (optional)                             1 Set for rear             $13.95

Overhaul Costs
Shipping adds more remember!!!                                                Totals
Also Add $$ for tanny, and Brake fluid.                                     $???
Deluxe Brake rebuild #'s 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5                                    $87.68
This one is the best one to do, although you can do it over time, due the large cost.
With this one I also recommend cleaning, and painting the backing plate, and also check
out the E-brake cables.

I just need Brakes!!! #'s 1, 3, 4                                                    $67.83
Without shoe's(#4)                                                                       $43.88
(The above 2 are what I call the poor mans job. Its just because you HAVE TO get brakes.
 

* The rear seal kit is optional, its a good thing to have, if you remove the backing plate. I didn't use one, I cheated, and permatexed the broken seal back in place....I am sure I will pay with my own sweat and blood some day. But this is a good inexpensive reassurance part to have. Its one less thing to worry about if done right.

Lets Begin!!!!!!

Things to remember.
Only use brake fluid, or brake cleaning products to clean.
Keep all shop manuals by and handy.
Go through every step before you start to work.(Know what your doing before you do it)
There is espestis, in "certain kinds" of brake pad dust.
Try not to kill yourself.
Jack the car up properly, and make sure it is supported well.
 

Hot VW Trends did this, and saved my booty a couple times.

Step 1 (If parts are ordered....or bus is not moving any were fast)
   Remove large rear axle Nuts. Loosen the 5 lugs. Jack up car.  Then remove back brake drums. If  you can't get the drums off, Keep the wheel on the drum ,and pull on the wheel, loosen the nuts if needed. This acts as a jack hammer affect, works very well.

Step 2
  Look at all the dirt, and dust inside the rear drum and plate, and give a disgusted.  "Holy crap that's dirty". Now spread the springs on the hoses at the top part, and remove that spring, then do some prying with the old "flat blade screw driver" the springs, and the shoes should be detached after that.
Poor mans job move to step 3P <P for Poor.
  
These 2 pictures above show the whole assembly, then then the shoes, springs, and brake lever taken off. This si what it should look like.

Step 3  (Only for the deluxe or in between the two)
    Then remove small stop clip on the E-brake line(Magazine failed to mention this, But I figured it out after a bit of struggle, Then the E-brake line slides out(or it gets beat out in my case) of the backing plate.
Notice the Brake line is removed. Now undo all the botls
 

Step 3P
    Detach the in the rear the metal brake line connecting to the wheel cylinder. Use correct size tool....or you shall perish...Ok. :)
Right now would be a good time to push onthe brakes a little bit, and squirt some of the brake fluid out, it will clean the lines a bit.
Then Unbolt the front bolt, and remove the cylinder.  Replace the cylinder in the reverse directions.
Go to Step 5 and 5P

Here are the new cylinders, the old ones on top, and the new is on the bottom, There is a plug that keeps dirt out, remove that after it has been installed. YOU DON'T WANT DIRT IN YOU BRAKE SYSTEM!!!

Step 4
   Remove the large 4 bolts in the middle, and the 2  nuts, on the top part.
CAUTION, Unless you like oily driveways/garages/you/whatever. Get a large coffee can to catch the Gear oil. no slowly remove plate. Then catch oil ,and let it all drain. This is the time to Clean(ALL GREASE) and paint the backing plate. remove the brass adjusting stars. Then grind polish up all the nuts and bolts, and "stars" Remember, The longer it(backing  plate, and paint)  has to dry the better chip resistant it will be.

There is quiet a bit of oil in there. It wouldbe a good Idea to just remove the lower drain plug with a trusty old 17mm transmision drin socker, or large allen wrench. Check out my tricky tools page to see other options.

Step 5 and 5P
    Remove the rear Brake hose, By removing the metal lines front and back of it, and sliding the "holding" plates out. USE CORRECT SIZE WRENCH!!!
Then install new one, with some grease on the threads.  and make sure to clean or grind down the rust and dirt around the area.
Poor people to step 7P

This is my freshly painted backing plate....Spray paint for $2, and $2 primer...not bad.

Step 6
    Put backing plate on, when dry, then put the New Seal kit in around the axle. Also use permatex aviation, its brushed on, red and very sticky. Small white bottle, Cover seals front and back. Then bolt all bolts. Install adjusting stars, grease them to.  Then The brake cylinder in, bolt it in first then add the metal line. Be careful not to strip metal line, I had to replace 1 of mine.  Now install the E-barke line, grease fitting, and pull through, add metal clip.

 

Step 7 And 7P
    Then Put the brakes and NEW(or old) springs together with the NEW(or old) shoes. These parts need to be assemble on the ground then installed as a unit (i.e. shoes, springs, retainers) its the way the lower springs work, its impossible to install 1 piece at a time.  Grease all the places that have moving parts.
Lift the assembly up, and add the brake line to the lever.  Now do some more prying(Careful of new paint) And  put the "Assembly" in. Also, check the grove for the brake shoe in the wheel cylinder so it lines up with the shoes correctly. <Do this before you install the Assembly.
 

Step 8 And 8P
   Now that that's done, add gear oil. Make sure you add the proper amount. You WILL NOT be able to get to it once the wheel is on. Now Install the Drum use some grease on the splines.
You can also paint the drum with High Heat Paint if you want.  Now adjust the shoes....by turning the freshly reground(by you the genius) star, through the hole in  the front of the drum turn the stars until pad reaches to the drum then back off a bit. THIS will insure  proper breaking, and faster.
Now put the wheel on.

(SORRY,  NO CMPLETED PICTURES YET, I FORGOT TO TAKE THEM!!!)

DO OTHER SIDE!!!

Step 9 and 9P
    Now bleed the breaks with a friend.
Proper way to do the bleeding. Start at the wheel furthest away form the break pedal.

--------------------------------------------
[       2                                  4       [
[                                  Brake         [
[                                                    [   Front  of bus
[                                                    [
[                                                    [
[       1                                  3       [
--------------------------------------------

This is the proper order to Bleed your brakes in.

Good Luck :)
 

                                    <Home>

Hosted by www.Geocities.ws

1