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uk trad E7+
on-sights
Intro

These are the known onsights of E7+ trad routes in the UK. There are probably more, because they tend not to get reported in the climbing media, and we've probably forgotten some. You can provide extra information using a form at the bottom of this page.
Acknowledgments

Compiled with help and head scratching from: Jo Bertalot, John Cox, Steve Crowe, The Cumbrian, Neil Foster, Matt Gallagher, Adam Lincoln, Stu Littlefair, George Ridge, Pete Robins, Chris Shorter, Tyler, Bob Wightman, Simon Witcher, Stuart Wood
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wales
gritstone
limestone
lakes
northumberland
scotland

form
Styles

onsight: no falls, no prior inspection, no beta
beta-flash: no falls, some beta
flash: no falls, maybe some prior inspection
(usually by abseil)
ground up: with fall(s), no prior inspection, no beta


Welsh on-sights
Route Grade Location Climber(s)
The Bells, The Bells E7 6b Gogarth Redhead (flash), Vickers, Dr Farquar, Bullock (ground up - yes he fell off and lived!), McHaffie, Parnaby
(Note: without gear in The Cad flake)
Enchanted Broccoli Garden E7 6b Gogarth Dr Farquar
Wreath of Deadly Nightshade E7 6b Gogarth Owen, Huxter (and others?)
The Clown E7 6b Gogarth Owen, Sellars (and others?)
Extinction E7/8 6b Gogarth Cameron (ground up)
Conan The Librarian E7 6b Gogarth Witcher & Musgrove
Stroke of The Fiend E7 6b Gogarth Bullock
Barbarossa E6/7 6b Gogarth Robins, Hurley (and a host of others I'm sure)
Master's Wall E7 6b Cloggy Cameron (ground up), Houlding
Authentic Desire E7 6b Cloggy Briggs, Houlding
The 39 Slaps E7 6b The Pass Popp (flash)
Gram Negative E7 6c The Pass Hammond (ground up)
My Halo E7 6b Slate Big Jim from Yorkshire in 80s, Houlding
Raped by Affection E7 6c Slate nearly Dawes, Hammond
One More Calorie E5/7 6b Idwel Robins (his grade!)
Zero E7 6b Idwel Robins, McHaffie
(Note: without gear in neighbouring route)
Le Fin E6/7 6b Griben Facet Robins
Strawberries E7 6b Tremadog Woodward (ground-up), Glowez
Ghost Train E7 6b Pembroke Owen, Arran, Creamer, Savage, Bransby, et al.?
Welsh on-sight new routes
Route Grade Location Climber(s)
Come to Mother E7 6b Gogath Dawes & Pritchard
Rubble E7 6a Gogarth Pritchard & Mc Ginley
Hardback Thesaurus E7 6c Gogath Dawes (ground up)
The Mad Brown E7 6c Gogath Wainwright & Smith (ground up)
Isis Is Angry E7 6c Gogarth Haston & Kay
Ugly E7 6b Lleyn Smith (ground up)
Professor Whittaker E7 6b Lleyn Dawes
Wolverine E7 6c Pembroke Mayers
Broughton Power E8 6c Pembroke Vickers


Gritstone on-sights
Route Grade Location Climber(s)
Carmen Picasso E7/8 6c Gorple Bransby (beta-flash)
Eternal E6/7 6b Gorple Bransby, Long
Snap Decision E7 6c Ilkley Vickers, Grieve
DeathWatch E7 6b Ilkey Houlding, at least
Desperate Dan E6/7 6b Ilkley Picali (ground up?), Witcher (ground up), Whittaker, Houlding, Pasquil
Marrow Bone Jelly E7 6c Caley Dunne
Strangeness E6/7 6c Caley Houlding, at least
Appointment With Fear E7 6b Wimberry Reed (early 80s), ?, Crocker
Shine On E7 6c Stanage Vickers (ground up)
Master's Edge E7 6c Millstone Atkinson (ground up), Hutson (flash)
Monopoly E7 6b Millstone Heason
Beau Geste E7 6c Froggatt Ryan (ground up, 1986), Bentley (ground up)
Slackers E6/7 6b Curbar Whittaker (beta-flash), Robins
Kaluza Klein E7 6c Robin Hood's Stride Long
One Chromosome's Missing E7 6b Harston Tetler


Limestone on-sights
Route Grade Location Climber(s)
Death Wish E7 6b Blue Scar Rhodes, Magog, et al.
Stairway To Heaven E7 6b Blue Scar Vickers
Blue Angel E7 6c Blue Scar Vickers
Bliss E7 6b Goredale Radke, Crowe, Barton (on his 50th birthday!), Wentworth
Relax E7 6b Kilnsey Vickers
Ninth Life E7 6c Chee Dale Vickers, Cameron
To Bolt Or Not To Bolt E7 6b Avon Heason
Roaring Boys E6/7 6b Swanage Pickford
Limestone on-sight new routes
Route Grade Location Climber(s)
What Grot Got E8 6b Goredale Vickers


Lakes on-sights
Route Grade Location Climber(s)
De Quincy E7 6b Bowderstone Parry, McHaffie
Flattery E7 6b Flat Crag McHaffie
Camouflage E7 6b Cam Crags, Langstrath McHaffie


Northumberland on-sights
Route Grade Location Climber(s)
On the Rocks E7 6b Back Bowden Door Harris (ground up)
Northumberland on-sight new routes
Route Grade Location Climber(s)
On the Rocks E7 6b Back Bowden Door Smith (flash)
Time and Motion Man E6/7 6b Sandy Crag Webb


Scottish on-sights
Route Grade Location Climber(s)
The Chisel (Gloaming finish) E7 6c Stron Ulladale Briggs (ground up)
Knucklehead E7 6b Stron Ulladale Sellars
Buddha E7 6c Creag an Dubh Loch Thorburn
The Origin of Species E6/7 6c Creag an Dubh Loch Lines & Rankin
Lunatic Fringe E7 6c Cove MacLeod (ground up)
Liminality E7 6c Glen Nevis Smith
Lame Beaver E7 6b Glen Nevis Smith
Romantic reality E7 6b Glen Coe MacLeod (flash)
Stolen Ivy E7 6c Dunkeld MacLeod
Scottish on-sight new routes
Route Grade Location Climber(s)
Wild Country E7 6b Cobbler Cuthbertson (ground up)
Romantic Reality E7 6b Glen Coe Cuthbertson (ground up)
Chiaroscuro E7 6b Glen Nevis Howett (ground up, w/ abseil inspection)
Elixir d'Amour E7 6b Shelterstone Campbell (ground up)

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