THE BUSTLE OF HANG-CHOU


By the time of the Sung Dynasty (960-1279), the great cities of China had become the richest and largest in the world. In 1235 CE, Hang-Chou was a city populated by more than one million people, and it encompassed seven to eight square miles in size. The following account describes the sophistication and high level of commercial development of this major center of trade, government administration and cultural exchange.


Points to Ponder:

--What kinds of activities went on in Hang-Chou?
--How was culture transmitted? Can you tell what societies came into contact here?
--What elements of culture were transmitted? Religion? Goods? Ideas?


CAPITAL OF SUNG CHINA IN 1235: THE MARKETS

During the morning hours, markets extend from Tranquility Gate of the palace all the way to the north and south sides of the New Boulevard. Here we find pearl, jade, talismans, exotic plants and fruits, seasonal catches from the sea, wild game-all the rarities of the world seem to be gathered here. The food and commodity markets at the Heavenly-View Gate, River Market Place, Central Square, Pa Creek, the end of Superior Lane, Tent Place, and Universal Peace Bridge are all crowded and full of traffic.

In the evening, with the exception of the square in front of the palace, the markets are as busy as during the day. The most attractive one is at Central Square, where all sorts of exquisite artifacts, instruments, containers, and hundreds of varieties of goods are for sale. In other marketplaces, sales, auctions, and exchanges go on constantly. In the wine shops and inns business also thrives. Only after the fourth drum, court officials already start preparing for audiences and merchants are getting ready for the morning market again. This cycle goes on all year round without respite.

By far the most exciting time of the year is the Lantern Festival. Rows upon rows of businesses and private residences are all richly decorated, and numerous tents are set up for various spectacles and activities.... During the Lung-hsing reign [AD 1163-1164], the Imperial Temple and the Noble Ladies' Quarters were located at Central Square, opposite the present imperial dye and bleach works. Once, after performing the state sacrifice, Emperor Hsiao-tsung [r. 1162-1189] stopped to see the lantern displays. We saw the rows of imperial attendants in front of the curtain of the Emperor's carriage, and the piles of cash that they spent to buy food. They also gave out cash and gifts liberally to the onlookers, some of whom were fortunate enough to get real gold or silver pieces.

Whenever there is an imperial procession or a religious parade, the carriages form a spectacular, long wall, the tip of one touching that of another.

On the lot in front of the wall of the city building, there are always various acting troupes performing, and this usually attracts a large crowd. The same kind of activity is seen in almost any vacant lot, including those at the meat market of the Great Common, the herb market at Charcoal Bridge, the book market at the Orange Grove, the vegetable market on the east side of the city, and the rice market on the north side. There are many more interesting markets, such as the candy center at the Five Buildings, but I cannot name them all.


Source: Patricia Ebrey, Chinese Civilization and Society: A Sourcebook (Free Press, 1981).

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