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African
Pygmy Mouse
(Mus Minutoides)
Article By Ratkateers Rodentry
Housing
Glass aquariums are best to house pigmy mice. A tight fitting lid is necessary
since pigmy mice can jump at nine inches straight up. They can also squeeze
through very small holes. Make sure your lid is checked throughly for
any holes and its tightly secured. You can purchase screen lids from your
pet store that come with locks to keep them secure. Clay flowerpots, toilet
paper rolls, and small mouse wheels are favorites. We suggest using CareFresh
bedding. You need only to use a small amount. NEVER use cedar or pine
bedding!
Diet
A variety of foods works best for pigmy mice. The main diet is finch or
parakeet seed mix. Small bits of dried fruit and nuts, sunflower seeds,
kitten food, fresh fruits and vegtables, rodent blocks, monkey biscuits
and more can be added to suppliment your pet's diet.
Water
Fresh water is a must. A water bowl works best. Set the water bowl on
a small section of a 2 x 4. This adds some height to the bowl so that
bedding and food don't get into the water. Use a very small bowl and place
several small rocks in it so if they fall in, they can get out
Article
by Kevin Brooks
Natural
History:
African pygmy mice are part of the superfamily Muroidea of the order Rodentia.
They are often credited as the world's smallest rodent and amongst the
world's smallest mammals. Adults can stand in a thimble and words cannot
capture the shock of appreciating this species dimunitive size in person.
Adults can weigh from 3 to twelve grams. Babies are grey, but turn nutty
brown with a lovely white undercoat at maturity. Females are often marginally
larger than males. This species is widespread throughout much of subsaharan
Africa. Their lifespan can vary between 1 and 3 years. In the wild they
are highly social animals, living in small family groups.
Pet Potential:
As long as one understands this is a "hands off" species, the
pet potential is very high. Not to say they are aggressive (their tiny
mouths can only do negligible damage to human fingers), but they are an
extremely flighty species. Combine this with their tiny size and suprising
athletic prowess and they are hard to restrain during handling. Cornering
them into toilet paper tubes with a hand on each end and other such methods
are reccomended for transfering to new enclosures. A small plastic critter
keeper is useful for examining specific animals and sexing.
Pygmy mice,
however, are very active and entertaining to observe. Although predominately
nocturnal, I have been able to enjoy them regularly throughout the day.
For those wishing to indulge, their small size lends well to more naturalistic
set ups making for aesthetically pleasing decor (similar to reptile terraria).
Likewise, they are prolific breeders and some snake keepers have found
pinky pygmy mice ideal for the tiniest of hatchlings.
Housing And Care:
Being such active animals, I would keep a trio in no less than a 10 gallon
aquarium. Their small size lends to escaping thru cage bars, so an aquarium
is preferable. As a matter of aesthetics, I prefer to keep larger colonies
in tanks decorated with large driftwood and stones to create a more "natural"
feel, but this is purely optional. More spartan and economical means (cardboard
boxes, etc) can be used to keep them entertained. They are too tiny to
run any sort of wheel, however, so enrichment activities creating terrain
are important. Changing this up from time to time helps bring further
enrichment. The ideal temperature is slightly warmer than room temperature,
but room temperature is acceptable.
Feeding is similar to most rodents. A staple of rodent block and seed
mixes are ideal. Supplement this with various bits of vegetable matter
(citrus fruits are to be avoided and iceburg lettuce has no nutritional
value). They seem to require slightly more animal protein than some rodents.
This can be supplemented with small rodents or dry cat food a couple times
a week. It has been suggested canniablism can happen within groups if
their need for extra protein is not met.
Water should be available at all times, this is not an arid species. Some
keepers have found their animals to have trouble displacing the metal
bead in the spout of water bottles. Others have utilized water bottles
with no consequence. Certainly the smaller the metal bead the better or
water bottles without metal beads can be used (although I have always
experienced leakage problems with those types). If your mice have trouble
with the water bottle a bowl can be used, but its important to change
the water daily because it will be soiled. A small stone to help the mice
escape the bowl can be helpful to keep the mice from drowning.
Breeding:
In my experience, pygmy mice are extremely prolific breeders. Females
can breed at 4-6 weeks, producing litters of 1-6 young every 19-20 days.
By 16-18 days the young start emerging from the nest and once eating solid
food should be seperate by gender to prevent inbreeding. Pygmy mice can
be kept in trios or small colonies, always with more females than males
with little fighting as long as space is adequate.
Other Considerations:
Despite the "furry fish" scenario pygmy mice present, I have
found them a pleasure to keep. They are agile, athletic, acrobatic animals.
Their darting, explorations, cleaning and antics can be a joy to observe
especially in a naturalistic environ. They novelty of their size only
increases their appeal. I am unaware of their status in Europe, but they
are becoming incresingly rare in the United States and Canada. I hope
more people will be charmed by this species before bloodlines have a chance
to die out and weaken from inbreeding.
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