Introduction
One of about 38 species of Northern Pygmy Gerbils, the Cheesman's looks
very similar to the more familiar and widely kept Pallid Gerbil (Gerbillus
perpallidus). Were I a taxonomist, I would regard the two as subspecies
or races of the same animal, rather than as two separate species. Occasionally
referred to by the misleading title of Red Desert Gerbil.
Vital Statistics
The most noticeable feature of this rodent is the extremely long tail.
Head & body length 100 mm; tail 120 mm.
Distribution
Widespread and common from the Arabian Peninsula to south-western Iran.
The following subspecies are generally recognised: the forma-typica race
(Lower Euphrates, Iraq); Gerbillus c. aquilus (Iran); Gerbillus c. arduus
(Central Arabia); Gerbillus c. maritimus (Yemen); Gerbillus c. subsolanus
(Pakistan). Only an expert could differentiate between the various races.
Natural Habitat
Dry country, sandy or rocky, with scarce or coarse vegetation.
Compatibility
Like all true gerbils, this is a sociable animal, unhappy on its own,
and does best in pairs. If breeding is not desired, two males or two females
will live amiably together but, as this species is so rarely seen in captivity,
it does seem a shame not to attempt to breed it, and thus hopefully, in
time, it may become more firmly established. Should one animal of an established
pair die, it can prove difficult to introduce a stranger to the survivor
and any such introduction should be attempted on completely neutral territory.
In its natural habitat,
individuals tend to excavate their burrows close to each other, thereby
giving the impression of an extensive colony.
Habits
Nocturnal and extremely docile but capable of considerable leaps. I have
never known this species to bite. Cheesman's Gerbils are very curious
and less stressed than other Gerbillus.
As one would expect,
they are expert burrowers that require a deep substrate. In the wild they
plug their burrows with sand during daylight hours to conserve moisture
and to prevent the burrows overheating. This plug of sand also conceals
the burrow from potential predators such as snakes.
Sexing
The ano-genital distance is approximately twice as wide in the male than
in the female.
Accommodation
I prefer to use a large glass aquarium with a close-fitting, but well-ventilated,
lid. Such a cage is easy to clean, virtually escape-proof, and allows
one to use a deep substrate without any mess being generated. The disadvantage
of this type of cage is the restricted air-flow. Conventional wire cages
are completely unsuitable for such active, intelligent animals as gerbils,
being far too small. Pushing their snouts through the wire bars will usually
denude the area above the nose and cause soreness. Gerbils are very destructive
towards anything made of plastic (such as the base of conventional cages).
Chinchilla cages are slightly better, being considerably larger, but make
sure they cannot escape through the slot for the food dish.
Position the cage
away from draughts or direct sunlight, and not too near a heat source.
Litter & Bedding
Traditional wood flakes are still very popular as a floor-covering, but
can be dusty and there is evidence the sawdust irritates the eyes and
nasal membranes. For this reason very fine sawdust (which, ridiculously,
is still sold in some pet shops) should be avoided altogether. Pine wood
and especially red cedar is especially bad in this respect due to the
aromatic nature of the wood. Constant inhalation of the phenol oils present
in this type of wood can cause long-term liver damage and ultimately damage
to the gerbils' immune system.
Some rodent-keepers
remain staunch advocates of wood-based cat litters (in the form of wood
pellets). Personally I don’t like this material. I find that most rodents
will chew it into a very fine and unpleasant dust. In doing so, they ingest
a fair quantity of it and, being so desiccated, it expands when it encounters
the moist environment of the gut and can cause impaction.
I have experimented
with a peat-substitute (very good for burrowing, but attractive to mites
unless scrupulous standards of hygiene are adhered to) and even with sand
(too heavy, can become quite hard and unyielding). Sand is also quite
dangerous if the burrows should suddenly collapse. A new type of floor
covering which, I admit, I have yet to try as I am unable to buy it in
the large quantities I would need since I keep so many different kinds
of rodent, is cat litter made from recycled newspapers and sold under
certain brand names. This is clean, easy to use, and does not seem to
be detrimental to the animals' health in the same way that some of the
more traditional substrates are. Whatever material is used, have it as
deep as possible.
Suitable bedding
materials include strips of tissue paper, finely chopped straw or soft
meadow hay.
Accessories
Provide an assortment of P.V.C. pipes, cardboard rolls, boxes (with any
staples removed), branches from fruit trees, etc. Some sort of house is
essential. Those that one sees in pet shops are invariably made of plastic
and easy to clean, if rather brightly coloured and gimmicky. I prefer
something simpler but more practical. Budgie nest boxes are ideal for
this purpose. Many rodent-keepers eschew wooden houses, claiming that
wood absorbs smells and is impossible to clean thoroughly. After a while,
the wooden nest box does indeed become impregnated with the animals' own
smells, but this is no bad thing as it makes the gerbils feel more secure,
and it can be discarded and replaced every year anyway.
I no longer use wheels
for long-tailed rodents, as there is a risk the animal will get its tail
trapped in the spokes with disastrous consequences. The old-fashioned,
metal wheels are the worst culprits, but the new designs in plastic are
not much better. If you do provide a wheel, choose a solid rather than
an open-spoked one, or weave a long strip of card between the spokes to
render it safer.
Diet
In their natural environment, Cheesman's Gerbils enjoy a catholic diet
of seeds, roots, nuts, grasses and insects. Drinking water is usually
that which has condensed overnight on the leaves of plants. In captivity
feed about 10-15 grams of good quality rodent mixture daily. Choose a
mix that is low in sunflower seeds and peanuts, as these are fattening
when fed to excess, and obesity will lower breeding performance and shorten
life-span. Sunflower seeds are low in calcium and can lead to osteoporosis,
where calcium is withdrawn from the bones to compensate for the deficiency
in the diet. A diet rich in sunflower seeds has been implicated in spontaneous
fractures of the bones in Mongolian Gerbils (Meriones unguiculatus) fed
solely on these. But this is not to advocate that peanuts and sunflower
seeds should not be fed as occasional treats, particularly when scattered
around the cage to encourage foraging activity.
A piece of apple
or carrot should be given every few days, as should a few insects such
as meal worms or crickets. Meal worms too are deficient in calcium, but
are O.K. if fed in moderation as part of a balanced diet. They also possess
a tough exoskeleton which can be difficult to digest.
Like all rodents,
gerbils' incisor teeth grow constantly, so provide something hard for
them to gnaw on to wear their teeth down. Natural wood is best, but commercial
wood gnaws (available from most pet shops) can also be used, as can hard
dog biscuits. A mineral or salt block is also appreciated. Clean, fresh
drinking water should be available at all times, preferably supplied in
a bottle to prevent it becoming soiled.
Handling
The best method is to gently "cup" the animal with one or both hands.
Place your hand over its back and fold your fingers up underneath its
belly. Alternatively, "scoop" it up with both hands. As soon as you can,
open your hand to allow it to walk freely from palm to palm. But be aware
that gerbils appear to have no comprehension of gravity and it is not
unknown for them to walk off one's hand into mid-air! As mentioned before,
these animals are extremely reticent to bite. Avoid gripping by the tail
as this appendage is easily damaged. In the worst scenario, the skin of
the tail is shed completely, leaving just bare bone behind which, in the
absence of a nourishing blood supply, soon withers, dies and falls off.
The tail does not regrow.
Reproduction
Under the right conditions they will breed throughout the year. My own
failure (so far) to breed this animal has led me to conclude that they
are not always easy to breed under captive conditions.
Gestation
20-22 days
Young (Cubs)
The 4-5 young (average) are born naked, blind and helpless. Eyes open
at 16-20 days and they are weaned at one month of age.
