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Kinkajou
(Potos flavus)

Interview with Dustyann Schoening, and Denise Crawford

Positives of Kinkajous as pets?
DS: There are many positives with having a Kinkajou as a pet. They are friendly, clean, happy little animals. They are also very quiet and are capable of becoming quite the little members of your family. They are smart, and are very quick learners, and they also provide quite a bit of enjoyment. And if you don't mind cuddling with a soft, warm little creature, they can be quite the little bed warmer too!
DC: Kinkajous are very loving, playful and intelligent animals. When hand-raised from very young, they are very social and enjoy being handled and cuddled. They are extremely playful and quite amusing. I would have to say that their personalities are individual and rival that of dogs. Although classified as nocturnal, they do learn to adjust to your individual schedule, spending several hours a day playing if you are home, and napping on and off throughout the night.

Negatives of Kinkajous as pets?
DS: I truly cannot think of any reason for an animal lover to not own one. Unless of course you live in California or something where they are against the law. Claws and bathroom habits can be a problem, but are easily solved. They can be messy, but their positives generally cancel out any negatives.
DC: My Kinkajous have free run of my home during the day when I am home, but they are caged at night while we sleep. Since they become quite active at night, they require a good deal of room to play. They are very rambunctious and love to climb, hang and swing from ropes or whatever is available. Thus, any cage you may buy or build should be several feet high and several feet wide. Due to their exuberant personalities and activity levels, they can get quite noisy when they romp at night. Because of the need for a lot of space to house them and the noise level, I do not recommend them as pets for apartment dwellers. They also tend to get a bit messy with their food and under-cage mats and some type of cleanable wall protection is recommended.

My Kinkajous have never intentionally broken anything in my home, but they have long tails, which are used for hanging and balance and tend to knock things off of shelves accidentally. Anything left in the open is fair game. Like any child, their toilet habits are where ever and when ever necessary at first, but as they mature, they return to their cage or to whatever place you train them to while out. Claws can be a problem, especially around small children, but this too is manageable. The positives of these wonderful animals far out-weigh the negatives provided you enter into ownership knowing what you are getting into and being prepared completely.

Anecdotes/stories about your Kinkajou pet?
DS: I am afraid I have WAY too many anecdotes about them to mention. I wouldn't want to bore everyone to death! But I can tell you that due to a MAJOR life style change early this year, I was forced to relocate from my home in Oklahoma. The kinkajous are one of the "smaller" animals that I was able to bring with me. They travel very well. They have been "on the road" with me for the past 10 months, and they have seemed to enjoy every minute of it. While on the road, they are in an RV, and they are kept in the very LARGE pet kennels (for safety). We have one kink per kennel, each with food and water for the trip, and a water bottle on the outside of their kennels, in case their water spills. Inside each kennel, they also have a hiding box for security.

One thing that seems to be characteristic of all of the kinkajous I have encountered is that they are curious to see what is in YOUR mouth. It is quite an odd thing to have your little kinkajou pry your mouth open to see whats in there! Yoki will stick her whole head inside your mouth, and if she still isn't satisfied with what she finds, she has been known to stick her hand in and see if she can find any "goodies".

Do they have scent glands or an offensive smell?
DS: As far as my personal experiences go, I think they have a very fresh smell. I often compare their odor to Vitamin E. It is very pleasant.
DC: Yes, both male and female have scent glands around their mouths and the males have a scent gland in the middle of their chests. They tend to rub these on you, furniture, toys and each other quite often. It has no odor detectable to my nose, which is very sensitive, and does not stain or discolor. In other words, there are no ill effects caused by the scent glands. Provided they have adequate housing space, which is cleaned daily, the kinkajous themselves have no offensive odor and are very clean animals. Their stools are also inoffensive unless allowed to accumulate.

What is their average lifespan?
DS: I believe 15 years is the average.
DC: As I have not experienced a 'life span' yet, I cannot say authoritatively. However, I do have friends with 10 year olds and literature I have read on web searches states approximately 15 years. On the other hand, there are zoos with kinkajous as old as 30 years and some people claim to have pets as old as 33 years. I would say it all depends on the environment they are raised in and how they are cared for.

Do they enjoy interaction?
DS: Very much so. They love to play and they also enjoy snuggling up and cuddling with you.
DC: Yes, very much so. The more love they get, the more love they give. They love to cuddle and have their backs scratched while you watch TV or sit at the computer. They make great cuddlers in bed too. It is a very good idea at an early age to introduce them to as many people as possible, as often as possible to promote good socialization. They make wonderful ambassadors of the animal kingdom for educators, children's hospitals, senior citizens and nursing homes, and just about anywhere interaction with animals is welcomed.

What is their general personality, disposition, and attitude?
DS: I have 4 Kinkajous. Two of them are a pair which I purchased as adults 4 years ago, and two of them are their offspring. A little girl 2 1/2 years old, and a boy 1 ½ years old. The adults were NOT pets when I purchased them, but within a month, they were as calm and gentle as if they had been hand raised. The youngsters have been handled since their eyes were opened, but they are both mother raised. I took them from their mom each day from the time their eyes opened for about 3 hours and then I would put them back. They have always been sweet and love to be in on everything. All 4 of them are wonderful animals with very beautiful attitudes.
DC: Kinkajous are like perpetual 4 year olds. They are bubbly and playful and generally have a sunny disposition. They understand "No" and respond to being corrected. They can be sneaky and seem to devise little games to play with you. One of our favorites is Hide-and-Seek. I have my kinkajous trained to collars with small bells. They will hide from me until I find them, at which point they jump out and surprise me, or I give up and tell them to ring their bell so I can find them.

If unaccustomed to being awakened during the day or of having their heads rubbed and scratched, they can be a bit grumpy and obnoxious. These are two traits I work out of my babies from the very beginning. Repetition of the actions, which annoy them, desensitizes the babies to those actions. Otherwise, a nip or even a serious bite can be expected. It is instinct, not malice, which causes this reaction in Kinkajous.

Are they sweet and petable, or mischievious and playful?
DS: Oh, they are both. When they are in the "cuddling mode" they like to get right next to me and just hang out. They eventually end up falling asleep on me. They love to get right under my neck by the pillow and sleep. BUT they are also VERY playful in the evening. They love to play and even play a sort of "kinkajou tag". They love to investigate and they are very entertaining.
DC: Well, since they are members of the raccoon family, you can well imagine their potential for mischief and play. But on the other hand, they also love to cuddle up and watch TV and be rubbed and scratched. My Kinkajous also love to give love. They will hold my face in both hands and give kisses. They are wonderful when the day is just not going well.

Kinkajous have long fingers and semi-opposable thumbs. They are very capable of opening cabinets, both with and without handles and they like to team up and open refrigerator doors. They are also great escape artists, which requires very strong and when possible, complex, locks on cages and windows. Tragedy can strike when least expected. They are very observant and can figure out how to undo the precautions you have taken to protect them. Think of them as toddlers and childproof your house accordingly. My male has even figured out how to open pill bottles!

How destructive are they for an average household?
DS: Mine have free range in the house, and they have never broken anything yet. The worst they do is try to get into food, but they do not tear anything up.
DC: Let me just say that I keep a cluttered house and my Kinkajous have not destroyed anything maliciously. I've had knick-knack shelves, kitchen cabinets and fireplace mantels cleared by swinging tails and clumsy feet, but nothing broken intentionally.

Do they climb or tear up furniture?
DS: Oh yes they climb everything, but not in a destructive fashion. No, they do not tear up furniture.
DC: Kinkajous can climb vertical doorframes, entertainment centers and just about anything else they can get a toehold or grasp on. The higher, the better! Although they do have strong claws, they do not use them on furniture as a cat would.

Are there any problems associated with their claws?
DS: NO! If you have a kinkajou and you handle it, my experience is that they never use their claws ON YOU. When Yoki and Kiki were babies, and they were learning about humans, we would rub their little feet if they dug their claws in, and they quickly learned that it wasn't necessary to use their claws on people. I PERSONALLY believe that if the claws or teeth of an animal is a problem for you, then you should buy a stuffed animal at a toy store, and play with it. Animals were born with teeth and claws for a REASON and they should NOT be removed, unless there is something medically wrong. For those who feel they must remove body parts that an animal was born with, I think if said person is willing to subject themselves to the same fate FIRST, and they like being toothless or nail-less, then it would probably be okay to remove them from your pet too. Kinkajous can be taught to not use their claws on people, and they end up really enjoying a nice foot massage. For those who use the excuse that it is for "public safety" because they use their animals in Educational ways, again, a stuffed animal would be a much nicer way to teach about the animal.
DC: Claws are a touchy subject, open to much debate. If kept clipped regularly, they are manageable depending on your own level of tolerance. On the other hand, a good vet can de-claw your Kinkajou with no adverse effect on the animal. Usually within 24 hours of being declawed, they are running and climbing again, with little or no pain. According to an orthopedic surgeon who recently performed a de-claw procedure on a kinkajou, the claws are semi-retractable and unlike those of cats, the joint does not have to be removed, only the nail. Their fingers and toes are the same length and shape as before surgery, except that the claws are gone. Declawing also does not affect the Kinkajou's ability to hold its food or climb. I personally have had all 3 of my Kinks declawed. The level of play and affection we now enjoy is 10-fold that it was before, if that can be imagined as possible, and without the accidental scratches on faces and arms. For those who would own a kinkajou for educational reasons, there are also legal ramifications which can be incurred in these times of "nuisance suits" should someone be accidentally scratched by their Kinkajou's claws.

I believe that whether a Kinkajou owner chooses to have their pet declawed or not is a very personal decision, based on careful thought and research and the needs of the family. No one outside the household should condemn anyone else's choice.

How messy are their droppings?
DS: Mine are all trained to a litter box, so they are not messy at all. But I do not use kitty litter, I use dirt, so the whole tray needs to be changed daily. They don't seem to like the kitty litter.
DC: Kinkajous tend to go to one place as they mature, be that place a toilet, bathtub, trashcan or their cage. They will go to some place high, hang their tushy over the edge, and let it fly. Shoulders work well in a pinch too! They can be nondiscriminatory! I have never known a Kink to be litter trained, but I personally have taught babies to use a toilet during the 3 to 10 week age period when they are being bottle-fed by me. Their new owners have continued to work with them and some have attained success. Their Kinkajous will use the toilet when the urge arises. Speaking from my own experience, my Kinks use their cage and my adults will go once or twice at night and the youngster will go at night and again mid-afternoon after a bottle. The stools have no offensive odor and I clean their mess daily.

Can they be litter box trained?
DS: Yes. When I got the breeder pair (Yoda and Yoshi), they were NOT trained to a box, but within a month, they figured out where they were supposed to go. Yoki and Kiki learned by watching the parents.
DC: I do not know, as I have never tried it.

Can they be trained?
DS: "Trained" can mean a number of things. Mine all know their names, and come when called, and they are all able to wear a little harness on a lead so when I take them out they stay close. And when we tell them "NO", they stop whatever it is that they are doing wrong, or are thinking about getting into. (i.e. the Christmas tree)
DC: Kinkajous are very intelligent and capable of learning. I know of them being trained to wave at a crowd and sit upright to eat. My Kinkajous each respond to their names, respond to "no" when into something or doing something unacceptable and respond to praise and positive reinforcement. They each wear collars and when taken outside the home, they wear a harness and lead to keep them safe and close at hand. These items are introduced at a young age and are readily accepted. Every couple of days I will remove their collars for them to air their necks and groom. My male will seek his collar out and carry it around until I put it back on him. I guess it can be said that yes, they are trainable when you consider litter box training and toilet training

How are they with other pets, larger and smaller?
DS: So far, so good. They have had to live in the same house with a Palm Civet, Coati, Cacomistle, Vervet Monkey, Ringtailed Lemur, and 2 Tiger cubs (which stayed in the house until they were well over 250 pounds each.) At the same time, they lived with 100 assorted bird (canaries to cockatoos in size.) Their litter box was in the bird room, and they never bothered the birds. They like to play with Cecil, the Palm Civet, and have even been known to share a meal or two with him. Right now they live with Corky (the coati) and they all get along great! They even sleep together.
DC: I have a large variety of pets, including 7 poodles, 4 ferrets and 2 Bushbabies. The Kinkajous run around the house with the dogs and the Bushbabies have helped raise them. My male Kink actually gets into the cage with my bushbabies and plays with them. I also know from friends that their kinkajous love to play with their cats.

What size cage do they need?
DS: Mine are not in cages, they live in the house.
DC: If the kinkajous are going to have limited time out of their cage for play and exercise, the larger the better. I would say that the longer time they spend caged, the larger the cage should be. These are very energetic and active animals. They need room to climb and play. They also need stimulation, which they can get from various toys and activities. Kinkajous also like to feel secure when they sleep, so they enjoy a warm sleeping bag or a ferret cube to snuggle up in. A large nesting box with blankets or polar fleece can also be used.

What do you feed them?
DS: They eat Monkey Biscuits, sometimes they are soaked in Apple or Cranberry juice (just for flavor). They also get quite a variety of fruits and veggies, with bananas being their favorite, but they also enjoy apples, carrots, grapes, melons, kiwi, papaya, mangoes and sweet potatoes or yams.. For treats sometimes they eat nuts. And they LOVE HONEY! I don't know what they would do if we ever ran out of the stuff! And of course they Do enjoy an occasional Potato Chip or Dorito. They also get an occasional blueberry muffin or cinnamon roll, but I really try to limit their "junk food" intake.
DC: Kinkajous are not a cheap pet to feed. They require a large variety of fresh fruits and vegetables, monkey biscuits, fruit nectars and fresh water. Their favorite by far is bananas, but they also eat watermelon, honeydew, cantaloupe, papaya, mango, kiwi fruit, pineapple, berries of all types, grapes, nectarines, peaches, plums, apples, pears, carrots, green beans, corn (small amounts), sweet potatoes, eggplant, squash (yellow & zucchini) and peas. I pretty much try them on whatever fresh fruit is in season at the time. They love it all. As a treat they LOVE honey, which I put on whole wheat bread for them and occasionally peanut butter on a spoon. For protein, in addition to the monkey biscuits, I give them boiled egg and sometimes boiled chicken. As an additional source of calcium they get yogurt two to three times a week. Kinkajous are also wicked moochers and will try and steal whatever you happen to be eating. I know for a fact that iced tea will make them bounce off of the walls!

What vaccinations/vet care do they require?
DS: That may depend on where you live. All states and have different requirements. I would hate to give out the wrong info and mislead someone. Check with YOUR vet. (Also, look in Walkers Books) I really hate to give out medical advice, especially right now with all of the controversy going on about NON professionals giving out Veterinary advice.
DC: That too is a controversial subject. So little is known about Kinkajous that it has been trial and error over the years. The knowledge base is growing slowly but surely. I know that some states require rabies, but that depends on the state. My vet has learned that Distemper is fatal for Kinkajous, so I have mine vaccinated. There have been no adverse affects to date. One of the first things anyone should do before obtaining a Kinkajou, and this is true for any exotic pet is to research and find a veterinarian that is knowledgeable and preferably experienced with the animals. Then speak with them and discuss the species and find out their preferences for care. If you are not comfortable with them, keeping searching until you find a vet with whom you are. Never wait until you have an emergency to try and find someone to care for your pet.

At what age would it be best to get one?
DS: I would say at any age, but of course the older the animal, the more work you will have in gaining its trust.
DC: I bottle-feed my babies until they are 10 weeks old and still on one bottle a day, in addition to eating a variety of fruits. They then go to their new homes. Kinkajous are very social animals, so even non bottle- fed babies and older Kinks can be integrated into a household very well. The younger, the better, but older kinkajous just require extra time and love. Be aware that an older Kinkajou may never be cuddly and huggable if not socialized at a young age, yet may have a sweet disposition and make a wonderful pet. I recommend very strongly that anyone wishing to obtain a Kinkajou should research the breeder as much as they research a veterinarian and know the history and origin of the animal before buying.

Other Consideration for owners of Kinkajous?
DS: Remember that they are nocturnal animals, and if they are going to be a house pet, you need to be sure you are ready for the pitter patter of little kinkajou feet all night long. Also, if they are going to live outside, you will need to provide heat in most places. They are a tropical animal. And they normally live in TREES, way up high, so trees would be a welcomed addition to any outdoor habitat. We let our climb trees quite often. And they also appreciate a box to sleep in, and also to give birth in, if you are breeding them.
DC: Know the animal before you buy and never buy on a whim, or because it is "cute". Kinkajous can live a very long time and should be a life-long commitment. Make sure you are ready for it's arrival, just as you would a new baby. It will be dependent on you and Kinkajous require a lot. These are not animals to be put in a cage and admired as you pass through the room

What kind of person should own these animals?
DS: Someone who has enough time on their hands to spend QUALITY time with them everyday. They like to be talked to, and played with and held, and they get a bit offended if they are ignored. And someone who has done some research about them. I would hate to think someone would purchase one without learning as much as possible about them first.
DC: Someone that is stable and has a great deal of time and love to share with a kinkajou. They must have a good sense of humor, strong shoulders for riding upon and a warm heart and cozy lap for cuddling. Someone that shuffles their feet while walking is nice, but not an absolute must, as your new friend will follow you everywhere and be at your feet always. Oh, and above all, patience is a must. A kinkajou will want to share in and help you with everything you do.