Navigating the Lower Saint Lawrence in the 19th Century.
 
      I have since heard this singular and beautiful scene likened, not inaptly, by a lady who had witnessed it, to "a storm in a calm". Below are the wild and foaming billows of a tempest-tossed sea, while above all is quiet, serene and tranquil.
    We reached Montreal in safety, the second day from Kingston (the Rideau route would have occupied about six days), and Quebec the day following, taking up temporary quarters in the Jesuit Barrack. About ten days after that, the Premier transport arrived, after a quick passage from England, for our conveyance to the West Indies. She was a barque-rigged vessel of 500 tons burden, remarkably well-built, strong and beautifully modelled, but, as some naval men thought, somewhat over-masted. She had a great quantity of provisions and other government stores on board, was soundly rigged, and well found in every requisite, except the essential one of a crew. The men who came out in her nearly all deserted on their arrival, and the master and transport agents were compelled to ship such hands in their stead as they could pick up about the wharfs of Quebec; and a more worthless or ruffianly set could hardly be found on board any British vessel. With exception of the carpenter, and one or two others of the old hands, there was not a regular "salt" or true "tar" on board. The captain also quitted her at Quebec, to take charge of some other vessel, and the command devolved on the chief mate, Mr. New.
    On the 28th of October, the right wing and head-quarters of "the Royals" marched from their barracks, for embarkation, in high health and spirits, preceded by the bands of the 68th and 82nd regiments, and many were the ominous dreams and warning prognostics of old women that were afterwards foretold of the direful fate in store for the unlucky Royals. In consequence of strict orders from the Horse Guards, no more than the regulated number of women were allowed to accompany their husbands, and many a destitute wife and child were left behind. A few of these unhappy creatures succeeded in smuggling themselves on board during the confusion, but they were soon detected in their hiding places, and, however they might have deplored their apparently cruel fate at the time, had ample reason subsequently to congratulate themselves on the failure of their enterprise.
    The total number of persons embarked was about 350, including officers, men, women and children, and the officers and crew of the vessel. The officers who embarked were Major Bennett commanding, Captain Davenport, Lieutenant and Adjutant Wetherall, Lieutenant Whitmore, acting paymaster, Lieutenants Lysons, Gore and Vansittart, Ensign Waddilove and Surgeon Dartnell, besides Leiutenant Harris, R.N., transport agent, and the master, Captain New. The only lady of our little party was Mrs. Bennett, whose heroic and patient conduct, throughout the whole of the trying scene of the subsequent shipwreck, was the theme of universal admiration.
    Two days were allowed for stowing away and securing the baggage, laying in stock, and shaking the men into their berths, the bustle and confusion of the crowded decks in some measure subsided, and on the afternoon of the 31st, the Premier loosed her topsails, took her pilot on board, and weighed anchor from the harbour of Quebec, dropping gently down with the ebb tide and a light breeze from the westward.
    The navigation of the St. Lawrence is at all times attended with danger, from the intricacy of its channels, its numerous reefs and shoals, and from the sluggishness and uncertain variation of the compass; but these perils are greatly increase, at the commencement of the winter, by the gales which frequently prevail at this season; the fogs, and snow-storms, and strong currents, which, from being powerfully acted upon by the winds, are so irregular in their force, as well as their direction, as seldom to be calculated upon with accuracy. Innumerable accidents, accordingly, occur annually to the late "fall" shipping in this noble but dangerous river. During the month in which the Premier was lost, no less than nine merchant vessels were wrecked upon its shores, with considerable loss of life and property. The marine insurance, I believe, on vessels navigating the St. Lawrence, is null and void after the 31st of October, and no ship of war is allowed to enter the river after this date.
    The first three or four days after sailing were passed without any incident worth remarking. The weather, though particularly cold for the season of the year, was tolerably fine and moderate, but the prospect dreary in the extreme; the land on both side of the river white with snow, the low and cultivated fields of the south, as well as the bleak and rugged mountains of Labrador on the north shore. We had a comfortable ship, however, an abundant and excellent stock of provisions and stores of all kinds; all were contented and cheerful; and we consoled ourselves with the comforting assurance that a few days of favourable wind would exchange our snow and ice for the genial warmth of a summer sun.
    We reached Green Island, 150 miles from Quebec, on the morning of the 3rd of November, and here (instead of accompanying us to Bic Island, about 50 miles farther down, as he should have done), the pilot took his leave, hoping, no doubt, as the wind was fair, and we could hold a straight course, that we should have passed the last dangerous parts of the river within daylight.
 
 
G. R. Bossé©2001-03 Page 19 Chapter 1843
 
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