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Kawai, Shagran, Batakundi Kaghan And Naran the names of the places in the picturesque valley of kaghan have a musical quality an out of this world magic about them Precariously clinging to the slopes of the mountains the tops of which are hidden by the clouds of not snows or lying in narrow valley that at once give a feeling of openness as well as awe of the heights, these are places for the lover of nature and out door leasures. Kaghan Valley is a 155 kms (96 miles) long scenic wonderland. Even today, when places have escaped man's meddlesome fingers, Kaghan's collection of Himalayan peaks, lakes, waterfalls and glaciers are still in an unbelievably pristine state, an unspoiled paradise. That is why it can be such a deeply satisfying experience to spend a few days in Kaghan.
Lofty peaks crown the mountain ranges on either side like turrets, ranging in height from
12,000 to 17,000 feet and more, with the eastern range higher than the western. The bed of the valley slopes up from about 3,000 feet at Balakot, which as it were the gateway of the valley to 12,000 feet at Gittidas beyond which the valley closes at Babusar Pass (14,000 feet). Near Gittidas is the 11,000 feet high Lulusar Lake out of which the river Kunhar issues anew with redoubled strength to flow down the valley first as a placid blue stream and then a roaring torrent until it joins the Jhelum.
Along this river there goes the main road of the valley, meandering now to one side and now to the bed of the valley and never too far above the bank of the stream except in the very first state. Its 100 miles are divided into eight convenient stages marked by P.W.D dak bungalows at Balakot , kawai Mahandri, Kaghan, Naran, Batakundi,, Burawal and Gittidas. Another four miles take you out of the valley to the top of Babusar Pass. All these places can be approached by jeep. In fact this road which is one of the highest in the world is being steadily improved. From Gittidas the road goes on through the Babusar Pass into Gilgit.
The first ten miles or so are largely barren, but when the valley rises to about 5,000 feet forests of pine and fir appear densely overgrown with a variety of plants which has won for Kaghan the epithet of "the botanists' paradise". The forests continue till about Naran, where the height of 8.000 feet is reached, and there they come to an end.
On the way up to the Babusar Pass, one comes on the Lulusar Lakes at a height of 11,000 feet. The lake is surrounded by snowcapped hills whose purple and white forms are reflected in the green-blue waters of the silent lake, making it one of the most beautiful spots in the valley. River Kunhar fails into it on the Gittidas side and emerges down below on the Besal side.
At the start of the valley is Balakot, famous for the Mausoleums of two Muslim warriors Syed Ahmed Shaheed Brelvi and Shah Ismail Shaheed, who laid their lives fighting the Sikhs in the 18th century. The inspection bungalow at Balakot lies at the foot of the mountains that go up thousands of feet. These are on all sides. An amazing sight are the toy huts perched on their slopes.
Outside Balakot you cross the river to the other side. This is the Mahandri River which appears as if from nowhere for ten miles as you reach Balakot. Then it keeps you company all along the journey. The river, which was wider and muddy in the plains, becomes emerald in color as you go up the mountains. The road into Kaghan is rather frightening. To your left are deep ravines going down to the river, and to the right are sheer mountains.
Kawai is reached after 13 miles. There is a neat and petite Rest House here. There are shops where you may get a hot cup of tea and some fruits. You have already ascended to 4,000 ft from 3,000 ft. away at Balakot. A place to visit here is Shogran, which is not on the main road. Take a jeep able route and go up another 3,000 feet, within five miles. Literally Shogran means the 'forest in the sky'. These mountains are visible from here. These are mount 'Moose ka Musalla' 14,000 feet). The 'Make', almost of the same height and the 'Malka Parbat' (17,000 feet).
'Mahandri' (5,800 feet) is the next village on the way. Here the scenery becomes wilder and the rivers appear closer to you. There is also a P.W.D. Rest House.
Another 11 miles and the Kaghan appear. This village is bigger than the previous places and lies in a most narrow valley. Kaphan is a place to wander up to the river, which flows nearly 800 feet down the road there is a small civil hospital in Kaghan, and a Rest House built by the P.W.D. Now you are 7,000 feet high.
The next step is Naran where people normally go and stay for a few days. Naran Valley is wide and there are fields on both sides of the road. Here surrounding you are towering mountains. Beyond this you come to the rippling, singing waters of the Kunhar, which is now at, level with you. It is a place for out-door pleasure. You Can go climbing mountains which beckon you from all sides Hiking can keep you exploring new valleys and hills for days on end Fishing trout is a must for several tourists. All you need is a license and a guide.
About five miles away and 3,000 feet above Naran are the Lake Saiful Maluk. The road is a mere track but is jeep able. It is thrilling to watch the reflection of Snowclad Mountains in its clear waters. With provisions you can spend a night or two in the Rest House by the lake. Further there is the most picturesque place in the valley called Lalazar It is known for its colorful flowers and intoxicating scents Ahead is the Babusar Pass nearly 14 000 feet high and beyond the Pass is the valley of Gilgit.
Game is fairly plentiful in the valley and is one of the attractions of Kaghan All the way from Kawai to Naran and particularly at a place eight miles this side of Kaghan on the western slopes called Kamalban, game is plentiful. The forests abound in black bears and leopards. The former though inoffensive to man' do incalculable harm to crops and young trees. Thus the man who succeeds in killing a bear will not only be rewarded by his own sense of satisfaction but by the gratitude of the peasants and the forest officers Besides big game one also comes across Kashmir stags. Muskdeer, thar and goral. Chikore and Himalayan pheasants are to be found everywhereAt higher elevations' above the forest line one might encounter a red bear snow leopard and ibex. Also, with some luck. One can find occasionally a snow partridge or Ram Chikore or Murgh-i-Zarrin. The only difficulty is that guides are not easily available and for this kind of Himalayan shooting one needs a guide for every nullah.
Kaghan is at its best in the summer months (May to September). In May the temperature is maximum 10.55°C (51°F) and the minimum 2.78°C (37°F). From the middle of July up to the end of September, the road beyond Naran, snowbound throughout the winter, is open right up to Babusar Pass. Movement is restricted during the monsoon season also.
Lake Saiful Maluk has a touch of the unreal about it, nestling 3200.40 meters (10,500 feet) high in the shadow of the Malka Parbat (Queen of the mountains 5291.33 meters (17,360 ft.) high. You can go boating on the lake and hear the local legend about Prince Saiful-Maluk who fell in love with a fairy. Further ups are quaint woodland villages, Batakundi, Burawai, Besal, Gittidas and Lalazar.
The Kaghan Valley is blocked at the end by high mountains but a Pass lets the jeep able road snake over into the Gilgit Valley. This is the 4,145.28 meters (13.600 feet) high Babusar Pass, which ends the whole Kaghan panorama as well as gives you, on a clear day, glimpses of the Nanga Parbat (Naked Mountain) glistening at 8,125.97 meters (26,660 ft.)