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The landscape in the Salt Range is varied and fascinating. It contrasts sharply from the Northern Areas as its stark masses of rock that provide the first mountain barrier to separate the plain of the sub-continent from Central Asia.
The Salt Range is said to record 600 million years of earth's history. Its name comes from the vast deposits of rock salt that has been left in its embrace by receding sea.
Nestling in its folds are sleepy fairytale villages abounding in fruit orchards besides seasonal crops .Its seasonal rivers have over the eons, gouged out sharp, jagged precipices beautiful russets colors. As it lies on the ancient route to the Punjab plains the Range is steeped in history where successive waves of adventures and conquerors have left behind relics and legends of their visits.
Barely 20 km north of Pind Dadan Khan lies the salt mining center of Khewra, a modernistic town that grew up around the salt mines about fifty years ago. Its church is the only one in the Salt Range. It is also reached by a branch railway line. At the terminus of the railway line you can watch ancient steam locomotives towing creaking, aged rolling stock usually overloaded with humanity.
The salt mines are open to public on working days from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. and are the main attraction of the town. A visit there is an experience by itself. You go through the ritual of wearing safety devices including steel helmet and then climb up the mini trolleys, gracefully driven by power.
The tunnel is spread over an area of a couple of miles. Most of the spot enroute appear eerie but full of human interest. In one direction is the tomb like structure appearing as if made of chiseled white marble. In another direction are icicles hanging from the ceiling of marble like arches of rocks looking like huge chandeliers from a distance.
Improvised lighting arrangements though scanty, show you enough of what one would like to see inside these huge caves. All along your journey are situated the natural lakes, wells, dates and cisterns full of salty liquid - on seeing this one feels like exclaiming!
"Water, water all around, but not a drop to drink"
From these rocks salt is excavated and exported throughout the country and also to some of the neighboring ones, where it is relished and preferred to Sambhar - the manufactured type.
As one emerges out of the tunnel in the trolley following a tour of about three hours - most of the journey having been covered by foot - your eyes take quite a while to get used to the ultra violet sunrays.
Another uncanny feeling you get is that you are now made of salt and not clay. Moisten your lips and you get salt. Lick your skin and there is salt and nothing else.
Once out of the caves, you heave a sigh of relief and satisfaction, but are wonder-stuck by the awe-inspiring huge range of mountains all around. Climbing up one of these you experience from hill top breath taking. Scenic and picturesque panorama down south where the green valley created by the river Jhelum presents another heavenly sight.
Barely twenty years ago a tiny hamlet it has come of age and is a bustling market town. Its orchards watered by the famous springs. Keep a plentiful supply of fresh fruits at hand. The annual festival of Choa Saidan Shah is held in the first week of April and is considered a grand event by thousands of enthusiasts featuring athletics meets! Shows of horse riding and physical prowess by young locals who carry on an age-old tradition. It is an event fervently looked forward to.
Along the main street shaded by trees is the mausoleum of the ascetic Saidan Shah. Legend attributes the numerous fresh water springs to his piety. Spending an evening in the Highways Department Rest House and watching the lights of Choa Saidan Shah coming on in the valley and on the hills is a wondrous sight. The rest house overlooking an orchard offers 2 suites. Booking should best be made at Islamabad or Lahore. In the orchard surrounded by greenery and noisy peacocks is the District Council Rest House with similar accommodation and rates. Booking can be made at the office of the Chairman, District Council, Jhelum.
The place is known for its roses and loquats. It is 2000 ft above the sea level and has the potential of being developed as a semi hill station for those who wish to avoid greater heights.
Nandna, a place of historical interest, is situated 14 miles west of Choa Saidan Shah extensive ruins of a fort, a town - temple are present. The temple is in Kashmiri style. Of the fort two bastions of a large well are sandstone blocks still remain,
The highpoint of a visit to Choa Saidan Shah is a complex of Katas (weeping eyes) about 5 km ahead of village. This complex dates back from the time of Asoka all the existing structures. However, are much recent, other than the main temple of Shiva which is about 600-700 years old the remaining buildings date back about 200 years. A deep pond which according to Hindu lore was formed by a teardrop when Shiva wept for his dead wife supplies water to surrounding villages. Katas which had fallen to decay less through vagaries of time and the elements and more through callousness and vandalism has undergone a face lift, It is a marvelous specimen of our diversified heritage worthy of preservation.
Having a crisp, wholesome climate with plenty of fresh water and all amenities. Choa Saidan Shah is the ideal year-round retreat for the offbeat holiday maker,