Mats and
Baskets
Like most rope work, mats have a nautical origin. In the days of
wooden boats, they were used in a multitude of ways: to protect
the decks from damage, as shock mats for landing cargo on, on
ladder steps to stop sailors from slipping, and over ring bolts
where blocks for the rigging were attached. I have included here
four round mats, one shock mat and two rectangular mats.
![](images/up.gif)
Turk's head Mat or Ring
This is a three-lead, five-bight mat which can also be turned
into a cylinder for use as a scarf ring (as in a scout's woggle),
a 'scrunchy' for a pony tail, or a serviette ring. You will need
43 cm of 2-mm cord for a double run.
-
To tie, form a loop as shown in Fig. 1.
-
With the end, form another loop under the first as in Fig. 2.
-
Now, with the working end, go over the lay of the first loop and
under the lay of the second loop as in Fig. 3.
-
Next, take the end over the lay of the first loop and under the
lay of the second loop as in Fig. 4.
-
Now take the end over the first loop and under the second loop,
as in Fig. 5. This is the locking tuck. It brings you back to
the start of the mat.
-
To make a double, run the end parallel with the first run as
shown in Fig. 6. To make a triple, do this again.
![](images/k13.gif)
![](images/k14.gif)
![](images/up.gif)
Pot Stand
Suitable uses for this mat depend on the size of the cord used.
They range from a coaster for warm drinks, to a cat mat, and (if
worked with 10-mm Manila) a teapot or potplant stand. For your
test run you will need 80 cm of 2-mm cord. This mat combines
five
overhand knots
by intersecting each alternately to a lock position.
-
Step 1 To tie, form a loop with two bights so that bight X goes
over end B, and bight Z is under end A, as shown in Fig. 1.
-
Step 2 Form another loop, and bring the end around under the
first part of bight Z, over the standing part crossing the
bight, and under the outside of the bight. Bring the end around
over its own bight and over the eye as in Fig. 2.
-
Step 3 Form another loop and use the same procedure as in Step
2, so that you get the configuration shown in Fig. 3.
-
Repeat the procedure for Steps 2 and 3 to achieve Fig. 4.
-
Step 4 Now loop five is the locking loop. To lock, take the end
under end B, over bight X, under the standing part of end B and
over the inside standing part of bight X, under the inside bight
of the loop in Fig. 4, over end A and the standing part, and
under the outside part of the bight of the Fig. 4 loop, as in
Fig. 5.
-
Run the line through a second time parallel with the first to
get a double-run mat as in Fig. 6.
Be careful not to tighten the mat down too much or you will end
up with a bowl. If a bowl is what you want, run a third parallel
cord. To tighten down start with the inside end and work the
excess cordage back towards the opposite end till all excess is
out. To trim, whip the ends across from each other and sew them
into the centre runs.
![](images/k15.gif)
![](images/k16.gif)
![](images/k17.gif)
![](images/up.gif)
Small Round Mat or Basket
This is a cross-weave, half-hitch mat. Run twice, it makes a
nice centrepiece for a table or even a door mat. Run three times
and tightened, it makes a smart basket. For the triple design
you will need 240 cm of 2mm cord. The best way to tie this mat
is to use a piece of venetian-blind cord, some dress pins, and a
piece of cardboard laid or stuck to a piece of Coolite or cork.
As you follow the diagrams pin down the crossovers of the
design.
-
To tie, make a small loop inside a large loop as in Fig. 1,
calling the small loop A, the bights of the large loop 1 and 2,
the working end Z and the standing part X.
-
Taking the working end Z, form another bight (3) and form a loop
(B) under bight 1. Take end Z over bight 1, as in Fig. 2.
-
Take end Z under loop A, over bight 2, under part X and form a
loop (C) under bight 3, calling the bight before the loop 4.
Take end Z over bight 3, as in Fig. 3.
-
Take end Z under loop B and over bight 1, over bight 4 and under
bights 2 and 1, making bight 5. Form loop D under bight 4, as in
Fig. 4.
-
Take end Z over bight 4 and under loop C (going over bight 2 in
the process). Now take the end over bights 1 and 5, under bight
4 then 2, and under bight 1. Form a loop (E) around the
crossover of bights 1 and 5, calling the bight before the loop
6, as in Fig. 5.
-
The next stage is where you have to be careful because this is
the locking run.
-
Take the end and pass it over bight 5 and under loop D (going
over bight 4 in the process), then over bight 2, under bight 1,
over bight 6, under bight 5 over loop A (going under bight 4 in
the process), and under bight 2, as in Fig. 6.
-
This is the last of the loops: take the end under bight 6, over
bight 2, under bight 6 again, over bight 2 again, and under
itself, so that the ends meet. This completes the first run.
To make a mat run the cordage through again parallel to the
first run. To make a basket run the design through a third time
and tighten down, remembering to go slowly and carefully, so
that the work is even.
![](images/k18.gif)
![](images/k19.gif)
![](images/k20.gif)
![](images/up.gif)
Large
Round Mat or Basket
This is a large cross-weave mat with intersecting
half hitches. The largest I have made is of 24-mm Manila and
measures 2.28 m in diameter. This will also become a basket when
tightened. If you tighten only the outside hitches, it becomes
a flat basket suitable as a fruit platter or a bed for a small
animal. If you tighten both sets of hitches it becomes a round
basket with a small rim, rather like a snake charmer's basket.
It takes 4 m of 2-mm cord.
Again, the best way to tie this is to use a
pin board with venetian-blind cord. All you have to do is follow
the diagrams step by step, pinning as you go and referring to
the white part of each diagram as the relevant new step.
![](images/k21.gif)
![](images/k22.gif)
![](images/k23.gif)
![](images/k24.gif)
![](images/k25.gif)
![](images/k26.gif)
![](images/k27.gif)
![](images/k28.gif)
![](images/up.gif)
![](../images/back.gif)
|