You should probably read Rob Robinette�s page first�It�s a bit better than mine and has nice pictures. He does it without removing the fuel-filter bracket. I found it easier to remove the bracket. You should do whatever you find easier.
Tools:
10mm wrench
10mm socket
Curved needle node pliers
Something to plug fuel lines (rubber stopper?)
Something to plug one end of the fuel filter (like the rubber stopper that was on the UIM where the boost gauge now plugs in)
Wire to use as jumper cable
Step 1: Follow the procedure in the shop manual (Page F-97 or thereabouts) for releasing the fuel pressure. Also open the fuel door to release the pressure. It wouldn�t hurt to make sure the level in the gas tank is pretty low too (I don�t think empty is very healthy for the car though).
Step 2: Jack up the car under the differential (where the shop manual says), and insert jack stands as indicated in the manual. Don�t forget wheel chocks under the front wheels. When the car is on the stands, remove the jack from the differential (I usually leave the jack where it is for safety, but in this case you need to remove it so you can get right under the diff). Remove both floor pans (one plastic, one metal) from the sides of the differential using the 10mm socket.
Step 3: Locate the filter. Its right above the diff. It�s held by a clamp, which is held to the chassis using a bracket. Spend about 5 minutes loudly expressing your hatred towards Mazda for putting the filter in this ridiculous place. Then, use the 10mm wrench to remove the two vertical bolts holding bracket to the chassis. You might only be able to turn them 1/12 of a turn at a time, but just be patient (mine loosened up to where I could turn them with my fingers). You should now be able to see three bolts on the clamp that holds the filter. Remove the outer two to separate the clamp from the bracket. Now you can get to the final bolt � the one that closes the clamp. Remove it and remove the clamp from around the filter.
Step 4: In this step, you will probably get gas on you, but if you did Step 1 then hopefully it won�t be too bad (or if you happen to have three hands then you won�t get so messy). Use the curved needle nose pliers to remove the hose-clamp from the low-pressure side of the filter (that�s the side with the bend in the nipple � see figure). Get ready with the rubber stoppers to put on the hose and filter. Disconnect the hose from the low-pressure side of the filter and plug both the filter and the hose. If you are not now covered in gasoline then consider yourself lucky. Make sure the stoppers are secure (clamp them if necessary) in case there is any pressure in the fuel system.
Step 5. Prepare the new filter by putting another stopper on the low-pressure side (just like the one you have on the old filter). Also, attach the clamp to the new filter.
Step 6. Use the needle nose pliers again to remove the hose-clamp on the high-pressure side of the old filter. Leave the hose-clamp around the hose (same goes for the hose-clamp in Step 4). Now, you are going to replace the old filter with the new one in the high-pressure side. There won�t be any pressure in the old filter once you remove it so the only gas that will leak out will be what�s currently in there. Thus, concentrate on not letting any gas leak out of the hose you�re about to disconnect (If you�re careful, you can do this part without getting a gas-shower, even if you only have 2 hands). Make sure you�re directly under the diff, that way you can get one hand around each side of the diff. Use your right hand (assuming your feet are out the back of the car) to stop the hose from leaking while you disconnect the old filter. With your left hand, pull the filter out (if you keep it level, you won�t spill much gas). Now grab the new filter (you did put it within reach, right?) and connect it to the hose in your right hand. Put the hose-clamp back on with the pliers. Note that if you forgot Step 5 you are now covered in fuel again.
Step 7. Now you need to simultaneously remove the stoppers from the low-pressure hose and low-pressure side of the new filter (third hand useful here again). Use your fingers to stop them leaking while you put the hose on the filter. Then use the pliers one last time to secure the hose with the hose-clamp (you did leave the hose-clamp on the hose, right?).
Step 8. Put the bracket back on the clamp (it might be possible to do this while the new filter is still out of the car � I wasn�t thinking clear enough to try), and then secure the clamp back on the chassis. The last two bolts were a bitch to get back in for me. If you know someone with small hands, beg them to help you. Finally, replace the floor pans.
You�re done. Now go take a shower and don�t light any matches.
