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Marijuana Grower's Handbook - Part 1 of 33

"Marijuana : The Plant"

from

Marijuana Grower's Handbook

[Indoor/Greenhouse Edition]

Ed Rosenthal

 

 

 

It is recommended that you buy the book that these files are taken from. Many

charts and some chapters have been omitted. Besides, Ed might need the money.

 

 

Cannabis probably evolved in the Himalayan foothills, but its origins are

clouded by the plant's early symbiotic relationship with humans. It has been

grown for three products - the seeds, which are used as a grainlike food and

animal feed and for oil; its fiber, which is used for cloth and rope; and its

resin, which is used medically and recreationally since it contains the group of

psychoactive substances collectively known as Tetra-hydrocannibinol, usually

referred to as THC. Plants grown for seed or fiber are usually referred to as

hemp and contain small amounts of THC. Plants grown for THC and for the resin

are referred to as marijuana. Use of cannabis and its products spread quickly

throughout the world. Marijuana is now cultivated in climates ranging from the

Arctic to the equator. Cannabis has been evolving for hundreds of thousands of

generations on its own and through informal breeding programs by farmers. A

diverse group of varieties has evolved or been developed as a result of

breeders' attempts to create a plant that is efficient at producing the desired

product, which flourishes under particular environmental conditions. Cannabis

easily escapes from cultivation and goes "wild." For instance, in the American

midwest, stands of hemp "weed" remain from the 1940's plantings. These plants

adapt on a population level to the particular environmental conditions that the

plants face; the stand's genetic pool, and thus the plants' characteristics,

evolve over a number of generations. Varieties differ in growth characteristics

such as height, width, branching traits, leaf size, leaf shape, flowering time,

yield, potency, taste, type of hig, and aroma. For the most part, potency is a

factor of genetics. Some plants have the genetic potential of producing high

grade marijuana and others do not. The goal of the cultivator is to allow the

high THC plants to reach their full potential. Marijuana is a fast growing

annual plant, although some varieties in some warm areas overwinter. It does

best in a well-drained medium, high in fertility. It requires long periods of

unobstructed bright light daily. Marijuana is usually dioecious; plants are

either male or female, although some varieties are monoecious - they have male

and female flowers on the same plant.

Marijuana's annual cycle begins with germination in the early spring. The plant

grows vigorously for several months. The plant begins to flower in the late

summer or early fall and sets seed by late fall. The seeds drop as the plant

dies as a result of changes in the weather. Indoors, the grower has complete

control of the environment. The cultivator determines when the plants are to be

started, when they will flower, whether they are to produce seed and even if

they are to bear a second harvest.

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - Part 2 of 33

by pH Imbalance

"Choosing A Variety"

Gardeners can grow a garden with only one or two varieties or a potpourri. Each

has its advantages. Commercial growers usually prefer homogenous gardens because

the plants tatse the same and mature at the same time. These growers usually

choose fast maturing plants so that there is a quick turnaround. Commercial

growers often use clones or cuttings from one plant so that the garden is

genetically idential; the clones have exactly the same growth habits and

potency.

Homegrowers are usually more concerned with quality than with fast maturity.

Most often, they grow mixed groups of plants so they have a selection of

potency, quality of the high, and taste. Heterogeneous gardens take longer to

mature and have a lower yield than homogenous gardens. They take more care, too,

because the plants grow at different rates, have different shapes and require

varying amounts of space. The plants require individual care.

Marijuana grown in the United States is usually one of two main types: inidica

or sativa. Indica plants originated in the Hindu-Kush valleys in central Asia,

which is located between the 25-35 latitudes. The weather there is changeable.

One year there may be drought, the next it might be cloudy, wet, rainy or sunny.

For the population to survive, the plant group needs to have individuals which

survive and thrive under different conditions. Thus, in any season, no matter

what the weather, some plants will do well and some will do poorly.

Indica was probably developed by hash users for resin content, not for flower

smoking. The resin was removed from the plant. An indication of indica's

development is the seeds, which remain enclosed and stick to the resin. Since

they are very hrd to disconnect from the plant, they require human help. Wild

plants readily drop seeds once they mature. Plants from the same line from

equatorial areas are usually fairly uniform. These include Colombians and

central Africans. Plants from higher latitudes of the same line sometimes have

very different characteristics. These include Southern Africans, Northern

Mexicans, and indicas. The plants look different from each other and have

different maturities and potency. The ratio of THC (the ingredient which is

psychoactive) to CBD (its precursor, which often leaves the smoker feeling

disoriented, sleepy, drugged or confused) also varies.

High latitude sativas have the same general characteristics: they tend to mature

early, have compact short branches and wide, short leaves which are dark green,

sometimes tinged purple.

Indica buds are usually tight, heavy, wide and thick rather than long. They

smell "stinky", "skunky", or "pungent" and their smoke is thick - a small toke

can induce coughing. The best indicas have a relaxing "social high" which allow

one to sense and feel the environment but do not lead to thinking about or

analyzing the experience. Cannabis sativa plants are found throughout the world.

Potent varieties such as Colombian, Panamanian, Mexican, Nigerian, Congolese,

Indian and Thai are found in equatorial zones. These plants require a long time

to mature and ordinarily grow in areas where they have a long season. They are

usually very potent, containing large quanities of THC and virtually no CBD.

They have long, medium-thick buds when they are grown in full equatorial sun,

but under artificial light or even under the temperate sun, the buds tend to run

(not fill out completely). The buds usually smell sweet or tangy and the smoke

is smooth, sometimes deceptively so. The THC to CBD ratio of sativa plants gets

lower as the plants are found further from the equator. Jamaican and Central

Mexican varieties are found at the 15-20th latitudes. At the 30th latitude,

varieties such as Southern African and Northern Mexican are variable and may

contain equal amounts of THC and CBD, giving the smoker and buzzy, confusing

high. These plants are used mostly for hybridizing. Plants found above the 30th

latitude usually have low levels of THC, with high levels of CBD and are

considered hemp. If indica and sativa varieties are considered opposite ends of

a spectrum, most plants fall in between the spectrum. Because of marijuana and

hemp's long symbiotic relationship with humans, seeds are constantly procured or

traded so that virtually all populations have been mixed with foreign plants at

one time or another.

Even in traditional marijuana-growing countries, the marijuana is often the

result of several cross lines. Jamaican ganja, for example, is probably the

result of crosses between hemp, which the English cultivated for rope, and

Indian ganja, which arrived with the Indian immigrants who came to the country.

The term for marijuana in Jamaic in ganja, the same as in India. The traditional

Jamaican term for the best weed is Kali, named for the Indian killer goddess.

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - Part 3 of 33

"Growth and Flowering"

The cannabis plant regulates its growth and flowering stages by measuring the

changes in the number of hours of uniterrupted darkness to determine when to

flower. The plant produces a hormone (phytochrome) begining at germination. When

this chemical builds up to a critical level, the plant changes its mode from

vegetative growth to flowering. This chemical is destroyed in the presence of

even a few moments of light. During the late spring and early summer there are

many more hours of light than darkness and the hormone does not build up to a

critical level. However, as the days grow shorter and there are longer periods

of uniterrupted darkness, the hormone builds up to a critical level.

Flowering occurs at different times with different varieties as a result of the

adaptation of the varieties to the environment. Varieties from the 30th latitude

grow in an area with a temperate climate and fairly early fall. These plants

usually trigger in July or August and are ready to harvest in September or

October. Southern African varieties often flower with as little as 8 or 9 hours

of darkness/15 to 16 hours of light. Other 30th latitude varieties including

most indicas flower when the darkness cycle lasts a minimum of 9 to 10 hours.

Jamaican and some Southeast Asian varieties will trigger at 11 hours of darkness

and ripen during September or October.

Equatorial varieties trigger at 12 hours or more of darkness. This means that

they will not start flowering before late September or early October and will

not mature until late November or early December. Of course, indoors the plants'

growth stage can be regulated with the flick of a switch. Nevertheless, the

plants respond to the artificial light cycle in the same way that they do to the

natural seasonal cycles. The potency of the plant is related to its maturity

rather than chronological age. Genetically identical 3 month and 6 month-old

plants which have mature flowers have the same potency. Starting from seed, a

six month old plant flowers slightly faster and fills out more than a 3 month

old plant.

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - Part 4 of 33

"Choosing a Space"

Almost any area can be converted to a growing space. Attics, basements, spare

rooms, alcoves and even shelves can be used. Metal shacks, garages and

greenhouses are ideal areas. All spaces must be located in an area inaccessible

to visitors and invisible from the street. The ideal area is at least 6 feet

high, with a minimum of 50 square feet, an area about 7 feet by 7 feet. A single

1,000 watt metal halide or sodium vapor lamp, the most efficient means of

illuminating a garden, covers an area this size.

Gardeners who have smaller spaces, at least one foot wide and several feet long,

can use fluorescent tubes, 400 watt metal halides, or sodium vapor lamps.

Gardeners who do not have a space even this large to spare can use smaller areas

(See part 17 - "Novel Gardens"). Usually, large gardens are more efficient than

small ones. The space does not require windows or outside ventilation, but it is

easier to set up a space if it has one or the other. Larger growing areas need

adequate ventilation so that heat, oxygen, and moisture levels can be

controlled. Greenhouses usually have vents and fans built in. Provisions for

ventilation must be made for lamp-lit enclosed areas. Heat and moisture buildup

can be extraordinary. During the winter in most areas, the heat is easily

dissipated; however, the heat buildup is harder to deal with in hot weather.

Adequate ventilation or air coolers are the answer.

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - Part 5 of 33

"Preparing the Space"

The space is the future home and environment of the plants. It should be cleaned

of any residue or debris which might house insects, parasites or diseases. If it

has been contaminated with plant pests it can be sprayed or wiped down with a 5%

bleach solution which kills most organisms. The room must be well-venitalted

when this operation is going on. The room will be subject to high humidity so

any materials such as clothing which might be damaged by moisture are removed.

Since the plants will be watered, and water may be spilled, the floors and any

other areas that may be water damaged should be covered with linoleum or

plastic. High grade 6 or 8 mil polyethylene drop cloths or vinyl tarps protect a

floor well. The plastic should be sealed with tape so that no water seeps to the

floor.

The amount of light delivered to the plant rises dramatically when the space is

enclosed by reflective material. Some good reflective materials are flat white

paint, aluminum foil (the dull side so that the light is diffused), white

cardboard, plywood painted white, white polyethylene, silvered mylar, gift wrap,

white cloth, or silvered plastic such as Astrolon. Mterials can be taped or

tacked onto the walls, or hung as curtains. All areas of the space should be

covered with reflective material. The walls, ceiling and floors are all capable

of reflecting light and should be covered with reflective material such as

aluminum foil. It is easiest to run the material vertically rather than

horizontally. Experienced growers find it convenient to use the wide, heavy-duty

aluminum foil or insulating foil (sold in wide rolls) in areas which will not be

disturbed and plastic or cloth curtains where the material will be moved.

Windows can be covered with opaque material if a bright light emanating from the

window would draw suspicion. If the window does not draw suspicion and allows

bright light into the room, it should be covered with a translucent material

such as rice paper, lace curtains, or aquarium crystal paint.

Garages, metal buildings, or attics can be converted to lighthouses by replacing

the roof with fiberglass greenhouse material such as Filon. These translucent

panels permit almost all the light to pass through but diffuse it so that there

is no visible image passing out while there is an even distribution of light

coming in. A space with a translucent roof needs no artificial lighting in the

summer and only supplemental lighting during the other seasons. Overhead light

entering from askylight or large window is very helpful. Light is utilized best

if it is diffused. Concrete and other cold floors should be covered with

insulating material such as foam carpet lining, styrofoam sheeting, wood planks

or wooden palettes so that the plant containers and the roots are kept from

getting cold.

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - Part 6 of 33

"Plant Size and Spacing"

Marijuana varieties differ not only in their growth rate, but also in their

potential size. The grower also plays a role in determining the size of the

plants because the plants can be induced to flower at any age or size just by

regulating the number of hours of uninterrupted darkness that the plants

receive.

Growers have different ideas about how much space each plant needs. The closer

the plants are spaced, the less room the individual plant has to grow. Some

growers use only a few plants in a space, and they grow the plants in large

containers. Other growers prefer to fill the space with smaller plants. Either

method works, but a garden with smaller plants which fills the space mroe

completely probably yields more in less time. The total vegetative growth in a

room containing many small sized plants is greater than a room containing only a

few plants. Since each plant is smaller, it needs less time to grow to its

desired size. Remember that the gardener is interested in a crop of beautiful

buds, not beautiful plants. The amount of space a plant requires depends on the

height the plants are to grow. A plant growing 10 feet high is going to be wider

than a 4 foot plant. The width of the plant also depends on cultivation

practices. Plants which are pruned grow wider than unpruned plants. The

different growth characteristics of the plants also affect the space required by

each plant. In 1- or 2-light gardens, where the plants are to grow no higher

than 6 feet, plants are given between 1 and 9 square feet of space. In a high

greenhouse lit by natural light, where the plants grow 10-12 feet high, the

plants may be given as much as 80 to 100 square feet.

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - part 7 of 33

"Planting Mixes"

One of the first books written on indoor growing suggested that the entire floor

of a grow room be filled with soil. This method is effective but unfeasible for

most cultivators. Still, the growers have a wide choice of growing mediums and

techniques; they may choose between growing in soil or using a hydroponic

method.

Most growers prefer to cultivate their plants in containers filled with soil,

commercial mixes, or their own recipe of soil, fertilizers, and soil

conditioners. These mixes vary quite a bit in their content, nutrient values,

texture, pH, and water-holding capacity. Potting soil is composed of topsoil,

which is a natural outdoor composite high in nutrients. It is the top layer of

soil, containing large amounts of organic material such as humus and compost as

well as minerals and clays. Topsoil is usually lightened up so that it does not

pack. This is done by using sand, vermiculite, perlite, peat moss and/or gravel.

Potting soil tends to be very heavy, smell earthy and have a rich dark color. It

can supply most of the nutrients that a plant needs for the first couple of

months.

Commercial potting mixes are composites manufactured from ingredients such as

bark or wood fiber, composts, or soil conditioners such as vermiculite, perlite,

and peat moss. They are designed to support growth of houseplants by holding

adequate amounts of water and nutrients and releasing them slowly. Potting mixes

tend to be low in nutrients and often require fertilization from the outset.

Many of them may be considered hydroponic mixes because the nutrients are

supplied by the gardener in a water solution on a regular basis.

Texture of the potting mix is the most important consideration for containerized

plants. The mixture should drain well and allow air to enter empty spaces so

that the roots can breathe oxygen. Mixes which are too fine may become soggy or

stick together, preventing the roots from obtaining the required oxygen. A soggy

condition also promotes the growth of anaerobic bacteria which release acids

that eventually harm the roots. A moist potting mix with good texture should

form a clump if it is squeezed in a fist; then with a slight poke the clod

should break up. If the clod stays together, soil conditioners are required to

loosen it up. Vermiculite, perlite or pea-sized styrofoam chips will serve the

purpose. Some growers prefer to make their own mixes. These can be made from

soil, soil conditioners, and fertilizers.

Plants grown in soil do not grow as quickly as those in hydroponic mixes.

However, many growers prefer soil for aesthetic reasons. Good potting mixes can

be made from topsoil fairly easy.

Usually it is easier to buy topsoil than to use unpasteurized topsoil which

contains weed seeds, insects and disease organisms. Outdoors, these organisms

are kept in check, for the most part, by the forces of nature. Bringing them

indoors, however, is like bringing them into an incubator, where many of their

natural enemies are not around to take care of them. Soil can be sterilized

using a 5% bleach solution poured through the medium or by being steamed for 20

minutes. Probably the easiest way to sterilize soil is to use a microwave. It is

heated until it is steaming, about 5 minutes for a gallon or more.

Potting soils and potting mixes vary tremendously in composition, pH and

fertility. Most mixes contain only small amounts of soil. If a package is marked

"potting soil", it is usually made mostly from topsoil. If the soil clumps up it

should be loosened using sand, perlite or styrofoam. One part amendment is used

to 2-3 parts soil. Additives listen in Chart 7-2 may also be added. Here is a

partial list of soil conditioners:

Foam

Foam rubber can be used in place of styrofoam. Although it holds water trapped

between its open cells it also holds air. About 1.5 parts of foam rubber for

every part of styrofoam is used. Pea-size pieces or smaller should be used.

Gravel

Gravel is often used as a sole medium in hydroponic systems because it is easy

to clean, never wears out, does not "lock up" nutrients, and is inexpensive. It

is also a good mix ingredient because it creates large spaces for airpockets and

gives the mix weight. Some gravel contains limestone (see "Sand"). This material

should not be used.

Lava

Lava is a preferred medium on its own or as a part of a mix. It is porous and

holds water both on its surface and in the irregular spaces along its irregular

shape. Lava is an ideal medium by itself but is sometimes considered a little

too dry. To give it moremoisture-holding ability, about one part of wet

vermiculite ismixed with 3 to 6 parts lava. The vermiculite will break up and

coat the lava, creating a mdeium with excellent water-holding abilities and

plenty of air spaces. If the mix is watered from the top, the vermiculite will

wash down eventually, but if it is watered from the bottom it will remain.

Perlite

Perlite is an expanded (puffed) volcanic glass. It is lightweight with many

peaks and valleys on its surface, where it traps particles of water. However, it

does not absorb water into its structure. It does not break down easily and is

hard to the touch. Perlite comes in several grades with the coarser grade being

better for larger containers. perlite is very dusty when dry. To eliminate dust,

the material is watered to saturation with a watering can or hose before it is

removed from the bag. Use of masks and respirators is important.

Rockwool

Rockwool is made from stone which has been heated then extruded into think

strands which are something like glass wool. It absorbs water like a wick. It

usually comes in blocks or rolls. It can be used in all systems but is usually

used in conjunction with drop emitters. Growers report phenomenal growth rates

using rockwool. It is also very convenient to use. The blocks are placed in

position or it is rolled out. Then seeds or transplants are placed on the

material.

Sand

Sand is a heavy material which is often added to a mixture to increase its

weight so that the plant is held more firmly. It promotes drainage and keeps the

mix from caking. Sand comes in several grades too, but all of them seem to work

well. The best sand to use is composed of quartz. Sand is often composed of

limestone; the limestone/sand raised pH, causing micronutrients to precipitate,

making them unavailable to the plants. It is best not to use it.

Limestone-containing sand can be "cured" by soaking in a solution of water and

superphosphate fertilizer which binds with the surface of the lime molecule in

the sand, making the molecule temporarily inert. One pound of superphosphate is

used to 5 gallons of water. It dissolves best in hot water. The sand should sit

in this for 6-12 hours and then be rinsed. Superphosphate can be purchased at

most nurseries. Horticultural sand is composed of inert materials and needs no

curing. Sand must be made free of salt if it came from a salt-water area.

Sphagnum Moss

Sphagnum or peat moss is gathered from bogs in the midwest. It absorbs many

times its own weight in water and acts as a buffer for nutrients. Buffers absorb

the nutrients and hold large amounts in their chemical structure. The moss

releases them gradually as they are used by the plant. If too much nutrient is

supplied, the moss will act on it and hold it, preventing toxic buildups in the

water solution. Moss tends to be acidic so no more than 20% of the planting mix

should be composed of it.

Styrofoam Pellets

Styrofoam is a hydrophobic material (it repels water) and is an excellent soil

mix ingredient. It allows air spaces to form in the mix and keeps the materials

from clumping, since it does not bond with other materials or with itself. One

problem is that it is lighter than water and tends to migrate to the top of the

mix. Styrofoam is easily used to adjust the water-holding capacity of a mix.

Mixes which are soggy or which hold too much water can be "dried" with the

addition of styrofoam. Styrofoam balls or chips no larger than a pea should be

used in fine-textured mixtures. Larger styrofoam pieces can be used in coarse

mixes.

Vermiculite

Vermiculite is porcessed puffed mica. It is very lightweight but holds large

quantities of water in its structure. Vermiculite is available in several size

pieces. The large size seems to permit more aeration. Vermiculite breaks down

into smaller particles over a period of time. Vermiculite is sold in several

grades based on the size of the particles. The fine grades are best suited to

small containers. In large containers, fine particles tend to pack too tightly,

not leaving enough space for air. Coarser grades should be used in larger

containers. Vermiculite is dusty when dry, so it should be wet down before it is

used.

Mediums used in smaller containers should be able to absorb more water than

mediums in larger containers. For instance, seedlings started in 1 to 2 inch

containers can be planted in plain vermiculite or soil. Containers up to about

one gallon can be filled with a vermiculite-perlite or soil-perlite mix.

Containers larger than that need a mix modified so that it does not hold as much

water and does not become soggy. The addition of sand, gravel, or styrofoam

accomplishes this very easily. Here are lists of different mediums suitable for

planting: Below is a list of the moist mixtures, suitable for the wick system,

the reservoir system and drop emitters which are covered in part 9.

Chart 7-1-A: Moist Planting Mixes

4 parts topsoil, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite. Moist, contains

medium-high amounts of nutrients. Best for wick and hand-watering.

3 parts topsoil, 1 part peat moss, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part

styrofoam. Moist but airy. Medium nutrients. Best for wick and hand-watering.

3 parts vermiculite, 3 parts perlite, 1 part sand, 2 parts pea-sized gravel.

Moist and airy but has some weight. Good for all systems, drains well.

5 parts vermiculite, 5 parts perlite. Standard mix, moist. Excellent for wick

and drop emitters systems though it works well for all systems.

3 parts vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part styrofoam. Medium dry mix,

excellent for all systems.

2 parts vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part styrofoam, 1 part peat moss. Moist

mix.

2 parts vermiculite, 2 parts perlite, 3 parts styrofoam, 1 part sphagnum moss,

1 part compost. Medium moisture, small amounts of slow releasing nutrients,

good for all systems.

2 parts topsoil, 2 parts compost, 1 part sand, 1 part perlite. Medium-moist,

high in slow-release of organic nutrients, good for wick and drip systems, as

well as hand watering.

2 parts compost, 1 part perlite, 1 part sand, 1 part lava. Drier mix, high in

slow-release of nutrients, drains well, good for all systems.

1 part topsoil, 1 part compost, 2 parts sand, 1 part lava. Dry mix, high in

nutrients, good for all systems.

3 parts compost, 3 parts sand, 2 parts perlite, 1 part peat moss, 2 parts

vermiculite. Moist, mid-range nutrients, good for wick systems.

2 parts compost, 2 parts sand, 1 part styrofoam. Drier, high nutrients, good

for all systems.

5 parts lava, 1 part vermiculite. Drier, airy, good for all systems.

Here are some drier mediums suitable for flood systems as well as drip

emitters (hydroponic systems covered in part 9).

Chart 7-1-B: Flood System/Drip Emitter Mixes

Lava

Pea sized gravel

Sand

Mixes of any or all of the above.

Manure and other slow-releasing natural fertilizers are often added to the

planting mix. With these additives, the grower needs to use ferilizers only

supplementally. Some of the organic amendments are listed in the following

chart. Organic amendments can be mixed but should not be used in amounts

larger than those recommended because too much nutrient can cause toxicity.

Some growers add time-release fertilizers to the mix. These are formulated

to release nutrients over a specified period of time, usually 3, 4, 6 or 8

months. The actual rate of release is regulated in part by temperature, and

since house temperatures are usually higher than outdoor soil temperatures,

the fertilizers used indoors release over a shorter period of time than is

noted on the label. Gardeners find that they must supplement the

time-release fertilizer formulas with soluble fertilizers during the growing

season. Growers can circumvent this problem by using time-release fertilizer

suggested for a longer period of time than the plant cycle. For instance, a

9 month time-release fertilizer can be used in a 6 month garden. Remember

that more fertilizer is releasing faster, so that a larger amount of

nutrients will be available than was intended. These mixes are used

sparingly. About one tablespoon of dolomite limestone should be added for

each gallon of planting mix, or a half cup per cubic foot of mix. This

supplies the calcium along with mangesium, both of which the plants require.

If dolomite is unavailable, then hydrated lime or any agricultural lime can

be used.

Chart 7-2: Organic Amendments

+-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+

| Amendment | N | P | K | 1 Part : X Parts Mix |

| Cow Manure | 1.5 | .85 | 1.75 | Excellent condition, breaks down |

| | | | | over the growing season. 1:10 |

+-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+

| Chicken Manure | 3 | 1.5 | .85 | Fast acting. 1:20 |

+-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+

| Blood Meal | 15 | 1.3 | .7 | N quickly available. 1:100 |

+-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+

| Dried Blood | 13 | 3 | 0 | Very soluble. 1:100 |

+-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+

| Worm Castings | 3 | 1 | .5 | Releases N gradually. 1:15 |

+-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+

| Guano | 2-8 | 2-5 | .5-3 | Varies alot, moderately soluble. |

| | | | | For guano containing 2% nitrogen, |

| | | | | 1:15. For 8% nitrogen, 1:40 |

+-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+

| Cottonseed Meal | 6 | 2.5 | 1.5 | Releases N gradually. 1:30. |

+-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+

| Greensand | 0 | 1.5 | 5 | High in micronutrients. Nutrients |

| | | | | available over the season. 1:30 |

+-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+

| Feathers | 15 | ? | ? | Breaks down slowly. 1:75 |

+-----------------+-----+-----+------+-------------------------------------+

| Hair | 17 | ? | ? | Breaks down slowly. 1:75 |

 

N = Nitrogen * P = Phosphorous * K = Potassium

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - part 8 of 33

"Hydroponics vs. Soil Gardening"

Plants growing in the wild outdoors obtain their nutrients from the

breakdown of complex organic chemicals into simpler water-soluble forms. The

roots catch the chemicals using a combination of electrical charges and

chemical manipulation. The ecosystem is generally self-supporting. For

instance, in some tropical areas most of the nutrients are actually held by

living plants. As soon as the vegetation dies, bacteria and other microlife

feast and render the nutrients water-soluble. They are absorbed into the

soil and are almost immediately taken up by higher living plants. Farmers

remove some of the nutrients from the soil when they harvest their crops. In

order to replace those nutrients they add fertilizers and other soil

additives. [pH : perhaps shake would be good fertilizer for one's next crop]

Gardeners growing plants in containers have a closed ecology system. Once

the plants use the nutrients in the medium, their growth and health is

curtailed until more nutrients become available to them. It is up to the

grower to supply the nutrients required by the plants. The addition of

organic matter such as compost or manure to the medium allows the plant to

obtain nutrients for a while without the use of water-soluble fertilizers.

However, once these nutrients are used up, growers usually add water-soluble

nutrients when they water. Without realizing it, they are gardening

hydroponically. Hydroponics is the art of growing plants, usually without

soil, using water-soluble fertilizers as the main or sole source of

nutrients. The plants are grown in a non-nutritive medium such as gravel or

sand or in lightweight materials such as perlite, vermiculite or styrofoam.

The advantages of a hydroponic system over conventional horticultural

methods are numerous: dry dpots, root drowning and soggy conditions do not

occur. Nutrient and pH problems are largely eliminated since the grower

maintains tight control over their concentration; there is little chance of

"lockup" which occurs when the nutrients are fixed in the soil and

unavailable to the plant; plants can be grown more conveniently in small

containers; and owing to the fact that there is no messing around with soil,

the whole operation is easier, cleaner, and much less bothersome than when

using conventional growing techniques.

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - part 9 of 33

"Hydroponic Systems"

Most hydroponic systems fall into one of two broad categories: passive or

active. Passive systems such as reservoir or wick setups depend on the

molecular action inherent in the wick or medium to make water available to

the plant. Active systems which include the flood, recirculating drop and

aerated water systems, use a pump to send nourishment to the plants. Most

commercially made "hobby" hydroponic systems designed for general use are

shallow and wide, so that an intensive garden with a variety of plants can

be grown. But most marijuana growers prefer to grow each plant in an

individual container.

PASSIVE HYDROPONIC SYSTEMS

The Wick System

The wick system is inexpensive, easy to set up and easy to maintain. The

principle behind this type of passive system is that a length of 3/8 to 5/8

inch thick braided nylon rope, used as a wick, will draw water up to the

medium and keep it moist. The container, which can be an ordinary nursery

pot, holds a rooting medium and has wicks runing along the bottom, drooping

through the holes at the bottom, reaching down into a reservoir. Keeping the

holes in the container small makes it difficult for roots to pentrate to the

reservoir. The amount of water delivered to the medium can be increased by

increasing the number, length, or diameter of the wicks in contact with the

medium.

A 1 gallon container needs only a single wick, a three gallon container

should have two wicks, a five gallon container, three wicks. The wick system

is self regulating; the amount of water delivered depnds on the amount lost

through evaporation or transpiration. Each medium has a maximum saturation

level. Beyond that point, an increase in the number of wicks will not

increase the moisture level. A 1-1-1 combination of vermiculite, perlite,

and styrofoam is a convenient medium because the components are lightweight

and readily available. Some commercial units are supplied with coarse

vermiculite. To increase weight so that the plant will not tip the container

over when it gets large, some of the perlite in the recipe can be replaced

with sand. The bottom inch or two of the container should be filled only

with vermiculite, which is very absorbent, so that the wicks have a good

medium for moisture transfer. Wick systems are easy to construct. The wick

should extend 5 inches or more down from the container. Two bricks, blocks

of wood, or styrofoam are placed on the bottom of a deep tray (a plastic

tray or oil drip pan will do fine.) Then the container is placed on the

blocks so that the wicks are touching the bottom of the tray. The tray is

filled with a nutrient/water solution. Water is replaced in the tray as it

evaporates or is absorbed by the medium through the wick.

A variation of this system can be constructed using an additional outer

container rather than a tray. With this method less water is lost due to

evaporation.

To make sure that the containers git together and come apart easily, bricks

or wood blocks are placed in the bottom of the outer container. The

container is filled with the nutrient/water solution until the water comes

to just below the bottom of the inner container. Automating this system is

simple to do. Each of the tray or bottom containers is connected by tubing

to a bucket containing a float valve such as found in toilets. The valve is

adjusted so that it shuts off when the water reaches a height about 1/2 inch

below the bottom of the growing containers. The bucket with the float valve

is connected to a large reservoir such as a plastic garbage can or 55 gallon

drum. Holes can be drilled in the containers to accomodate the tubing

required, or the tubes can be inserted from the top of the containers or

trays. The tubes should be secured or weighted down so that they do not slip

out and cause floods. The automated wick system works as a siphon. To get it

started, the valve container is primed and raised above the level of the

individual trays. Water flows from the valve to the plant trays as a result

of gravity. Once the containers have filled and displaced air from the

tubes, the water is automatically siphoned and the valve container can be

lowers. Each container receives water as it needs it. A simpler system can

be devised by using a plastic kiddie pool and some 4x4's or a woodem pallet.

Wood is placed in the pool so that the pots sit firmly on the board; the

pool is then filled with water up to the bottom of the pots. The wicks move

the water to the pots. Wick systems and automated wick systems are available

from several manufacturers. Because they require no moving parts, they are

generally reliable although much more expensive than homemande ones, which

are very simple to make.

Wick system units can be filled with any of the mixes found in Chart 7-1-A.

The Reservoir System

The reservoir system is even less complex than the wick system. For this

setup all a grower needs to do is fill the bottom 2 or 3 inches of a 12 inch

deep container with a coarse, porous, inert medium such as lava, ceramic

beads or chopped unglazed pottery. The remaining portion is filled with one

of the mixes containing styrofoam. The container is placed in a tray, and

sits directly in a nutrient-water solution 2-3 inches deep. The system is

automated by placing the containers in a trough or large tray. Kiddie pools

can also be used. The water is not replaced until the holding tray dies.

Passive systems should be watered from the top down once a month so that any

buildup of nutrient salts caused by evaporation gets washed back to the

bottom.

ACTIVE HYDROPONIC SYSTEMS

Active systems move the water using mechanical devices in order to deliver

it to the plants. There are many variations on active systems but most of

them fall into one of three categories: flood systems, drip systems, or

nutrient film systems.

The Flood System

The flood system is the type of unit that most people think of when

hydroponics is mentioned. The system usually has a reservoir which

periodically empties to flood the container or tub holding the medium. The

medium holds enough moisture between irrigations to meet the needs of the

plant. Older commercial greenhouses using this method often held long

troughs or beds of gravel. Today, flood systems are designed using

individual containers. Each container is attached to the reservoir using

tubing.

A simple flood system can be constructed using a container with a tube

attached at the bottom of a plastic container [pH: that which the plant is

placed in] and a jug. The tube should reach down to the jug, which should be

placed below the bottom of the growing container. To water, the tube is held

above the container so that it doesn't drop. The water is poured from the

jug into the container. Next, the tube is placed in the jug and put back

into position, below the growing container. The water will drain back into

the jug. Of course, not as much will drain back in as was poured out. Some

of the water was retained in the growing unit. Automating this unit is not

difficult. A two-holed stopper is placed in the jug. A tube from the growing

unit should reach the bottom of the reservoir container. Another tube should

be attached to the other stopper hole and then to a small aquarium-type air

pump which is regulated by a timer. When the pump turns on, it pushes air

into the jug, forcing the water into the container. When the pump goes off,

the water is forced back into the jug by gravity. Several growing units can

be hooked up to a large central reservoir and pump to make a large system.

The water loss can automatically be replaced using a float valve, similar to

the ones used to regulate water in a toilet. Some growers place a second

tube near the top of the container which they use as an overflow drain.

Another system uses a reservoir above the growing container level. A water

timing valve or solenoid valve keeps the water in the reservoir most of the

time. When the valve opens, the water fills the growing containers as well

as a central chamber which are both at the same height. The growing chambers

and the central chamber are attached to each other. The water level is

regulated by a float valve and a sump pump. When the water level reaches a

certain height, near the top of the pots, the sump pump automatically turns

on and the water is pumped back up to the reservoir. One grower used a

kiddie pool, timer valve, flower pots, a raised reservoir and a sump pump.

He placed the containers in the kiddie pool along with the sump pump and a

float valve. When the timer valve opened, the water rushed from the tank to

the kiddie pool, flooding the containers. The pump turned on when the water

was two inches from the top of the containers and emptied the pool. Only

when the valve reopened did the plants receive more water.

With this system, growers have a choice of mediums, including sand, gravel,

lava, foam or chopped-up rubber. Vermiculite, perlite, and styrofoam are too

light to use. The styrofoam and perlite float, and the vermiculite becomes

too soggy.

The plants' water needs to increase during the lighted part of the daily

cycle, so the best time to water is as the light cycle begins. If the medium

does not hold enough moisture between waterings, the frequency of waterings

is increased.

There are a number of companies which manufacture flood systems. Most of the

commercially made ones work well, but they tend to be on the expensive side.

They are convenient, though.

The Drip System

Years ago, the most sophisticated commercial greenhouses used drip emitter

systems which were considered exotic and sophisticated engineering feats.

These days, gardeners can go to any well-equipped nursery and find all of

the materials necessary to design and build the most sophisticated drop

systems. These units consist of tubing and emitters which regulate the

amount of water delivered to each individual container. Several types of

systems can be designed using these devices. The easiest system to make is a

non-return drain unit. The plants are watered periodically using a diluted

nutrient solution. Excess water drains from the containers and out of the

system. This system is only practical when there is a drain in the growing

area. If each container has a growing tray to catch excess water and the

water control valve is adjusted closely, any excess water can be held in the

tray and eventually used by the plant or evaporated. Once a gardener gets

the hang of it, matching the amount of water delivered to the amount needed

is easy to do. One grower developed a drip emitter system which re-uses

water by building a wooden frame using 2x4's and covering it with corrugated

plastic sheeting. She designed it so that there was a slight slope. The

containers were placed on the corrugated plastic, so the water drained along

the corrugations into a rain drainage trough, which drained into a 2 or 3

gallon holding tank. The water was pumped from the holding taink back to the

reservoir. The water was released from the reservoir using a timer valve.

Aerated Water

The aerated water system is probably the most complex of the hydroponic

systems because it allows for the least margin of error. It should only be

used by growers with previous hydroponic experience. The idea of the system

is that the plant can grow in water as long as the roots receive adequate

amounts of oxygen. To provide the oxygen, an air pump is used to oxygenate

the water through bubbling and also by increasing the circulation of the

water so that there is more contact with air. The plants can be grown in

individual containers, each with its own bubbler or in a single flooded unit

in which containers are placed. One grower used a vinyl covered tank he

constructed. He placed individual containers that he made into the tank. His

containers were made of heavy-duty nylon mesh used by beermakers for soaking

hops. This did not prevent water from circulating around the roots. Aerated

water systems are easy to build. A small aquarium air pump supplies all the

water that is required. An aerator should be connected to the end and a

clear channel made in the container for the air. The air channel allows the

air to circulate and not disturb the roots. Gravel, lava, or ceramic is

used.

Nutrient Film Technique

The nutrient film technique is so named because the system creates a film of

water that is constantly moving around the roots. This technique is used in

many commercial greenhouses to cultivate fast growing vegetables such as

lettuce without any medium. The plants are supported by collars which hold

them in place. This method is unfeasible for marijuana growers. However, it

can be modified a bit to create an easy-to-care-for garden. Nursery

suppliers sell water mats, which disperse water from a soaker hose to a

nylon mat. The plants grow in the bottomless containers which sit on the

mat. The medium absorbs water directly from the mat. In order to hold the

medium in place, it is placed in a nylon net bag in the container.

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - part 10 of 33

"Growing in the Ground"

Some growers have the opportunity to grow plants directly in the ground.

Many greenhouses are built directly over the earth. Growing directly in the

soil has many advantages over container growing. A considerable amount of

labor may be eliminated because there is no need to prepare labor-intensive

containers with expensive medium. Another advantage is that the plants'

needs are met more easily.

Before using any greenhouse soil, it is necessary to test it. The pH and

fertility of soils vary so much that there are few generalizations that can

be made about them.

The most important quality of any soil is its texture. Soils which drain

well usually are composed of particles of varying size. This creates paths

for water to flow and also allows airs pockets to remain even when the soil

is saturated.

Soils composed of very fine particles, such as mucks and clay, do not drain

well. Few air particles are trapped in these soils when they are saturated.

When this happens, the roots are unable to obtain oxygen and they weaken

when they are attacked by anaerobic bacteria. These soils should be adjusted

with sand and organic matter which help give the medium some porosity.

Materials suitable for this include sand, compost, composted manure, as well

as perlite, lava, gravel, sphagnum moss, styrofoam particles and foam

particles.

Low lying areas may have a very high water table so that the soils remain

saturated most of the time. One way to deal with this problem is to create a

series of mounds or raised beds so that the roots are in ground at higher

level than the floor level.

Once soil nutrient values are determined, adjustments can be made in the

soil's fertility. For marijuana, the soil should test high in total

Nitrogen, and the medium should test high in Phosphorous and Potassium. This

is covered in subsequent files.

Growers use several methods to prepare the soil. Some prefer to till the

whole area using either a fork, a roto-tiller or a small tractor and plow.

The marijuana plant grows both vertical and horizontal roots. The horizontal

roots grow from the surface to a depth of 9-18 inches depending on the

soil's moisture. They grow closer to the surface of moist soils. The

vertical root can stretch down several feet in search of water. In moist

soils, the vertical roots may be short, even stunted. Soil with loose

texture, sandy soils, and soils high in organic matter may have adequate

aeration, porosity, and space for roots and may not have to be tilled at

all. Most soils should be dug to a depth of 6-9 inches. The tighter the

soil's texture, the deeper it should be filled. If the soil is compacted, it

is dug to a depth of two feet. This can be done by plowing and moving the

soil in alternate rows and then plowing the newly uncovered soil. Soil

texture adjustors such as gypsum are added to the bottom layer of the soil

as well as the top layer, but soil amendments such as fertilizers or compst

are added only to the top layer, where most of the plant's roots are. Then

the soil is moved back into the troughs and the alternate rows are prepared

the same way. A variation of this technique is the raised bed. First, the

whole area is turned, and then aisles are constructed by digging out the

pathways and adding the material to the beds. With the addition of organic

soil amendments, the total depth of prepared soil may stretch down 18

inches. Some growers use planting holes rather than tilling the soil. A hole

ranging between 1 and 3 feet wide and 1.5 and 3 feet deep is dug at each

space where there is to be a plant. The digging can be facilitated using a

post hole digger, electric shovel, or even a small backhoe or power hole

digger. Once the hole is dug the soil is adjusted with amendments or even

replaced with a mix.

No matter how the soil is prepared, the groundwater level and the

permeability of the lower layers is of utmost importance. Areas with high

water tables, or underlying clay or hardpan will not drain well. In either

case the harden should be grown in raised beds which allow drainage through

the aisles and out of the growing area, rather than relying on downward

movement through soil layers.

Soils in used greenhouses may be quite imbalanced even if the plants were

growing in containers. The soil may have a buildup of mutrient salts, either

from runoff or direct application, and pesticides and herbicides may be

present. In soils with high water tables, the nutrients and chemicals have

nowhere to go, so they dissolve and spread out horizontally as well as

vertically, contaminating the soil in surrounding areas. Excess salts can be

flushed from the soil by flooding the area with water and letting it drain

to the water table. In areas with high water tables, flushing is much more

difficult. Trenches are dug around the perimeter of the garden which is then

flooded with nutrient-free water. As the water drains into the trenches, it

is removed with a pump and transported to another location.

Pesticides and herbicides may be much mroe difficult to remove. Soils

contaminated with significant amounts of residues may be unsuitable for use

with material to be ingested or inhaled. Instead, the garden should be grown

in containers using nonindigenous materials. Usually plants are sexed before

they are planted into the ground. If the soil showed adequate nutrient

values no fertilizer or side dressing will be required for several months.

Several growers have used ingenious techniqures to provide their gardens

with earthy environments. One grower in Oregon chopped through the concrete

floor of his garage to make planting holes. The concrete had been poured

over sub-soil so he dug out the holes and replaced the sub-soil with a

mixture of composted manure, vermiculite, perlite, worm castings, and other

organic ingredients. He has been using the holes for several years. After

several crops, he redigs the holes and adds new ingredients to the mix. A

grower in Philadelphia lived in a house with a backyard which was cemented

over. He constructed a raised bed over the concrete using railroad ties and

filled it with a rich topsoil and composted manure mixture, then built his

greenhouse over that. The growing bed is about 15 inches deep and the grower

reports incredible growth rates.

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - part 11 of 33

"Lighting and Lights"

Green plants use light for several purposes. The most amazing thing that

they can do with it is to use the energy contained in light to make sugar

from water and carbon dioxide. This process is called photosynthesis and it

provides the basic building block for most life on Earth. Plants convert the

sugars they make into starches and then into complex molecules composed of

starches, such as cellulose. Amino acids, the building blocks of all

proteins, are formed with the addition of nitrogen atoms. Plants also use

ligh to regulate their other life processes. As we mentioned earlier,

marijuana regulates its flowering based on the number of hours of

uniterrupted darkness. (See part 25, Flowering) Sunlight is seen as white

light, but is composed of a broadf band of colors which cover the optic

spectrum. Plants use red and blue light most efficiently for photosynthesis

and to regulate other processes. However, they do use other light colors as

well for photosynthesis. In fact, they use every color except green, which

they reflect back. (That is why plants appear green; they absorb all the

other spectrums except green.) In controlled experiements, plants respond

more to the toal amount of light received than to the spectrums in which it

was delivered. The best source of light is the sun. It requires no expense,

no electricity, and does not draw suspicion. It is brighter than artifical

light and is self regulating. Gardeners can use the sun as a primary source

of light if they have a large window, skylight, translucent roof, enclosed

patio, roof garden, or greenhouse. These gardens may require some

supplemental lightning, especially if the light enters from a small area

such as a skylight, in order to fill a large area. It is hard to say just

how much supplemental light a garden needs. Bright spaces which are lit from

unobstructed overhead light such as a greenhouse or a large southern window

need no light during the summer but may need artificial light during the

winter to supplement the weak sunlight or overcast conditions. Spaces

receiving indirect sunlight during the summer may need some supplemental

lighting. Light requirements vary by variety. During the growth cycle, most

varieties will do well with 1000-1500 lumens per square foot although the

plants can usemore lumens, up to 3000, efficiently. Equatorial varieties may

develop long internodes (spaces on the stem between the leaves) when grown

under less that bright conditions. During flowering, indica varieties can

mature well on 2000 lumens. Equatorial varieties require 2500-5000 lumens.

Indica-sativa F1 (first generation) hybrids usually do well on 2500-3000

lumens.

Some light meters have a foot-candle readout. Thirty-five millimeter cameras

that have built-in light meters can also be used. In either case, a sheet of

white paper is placed at the point to be measured so it reflects the light

most brilliantly. Then the meter is focused entirely on the paper.

The camera is set for ASA 100 film and the shutter is set for 1/60 second. A

50 mm or "normal" lens is used. Using the manual mode, the camera is

adjusted to the correct f-stop. The conversion chart, 10-1, shows the amount

of light hitting the paper.

Most growers, for one reason or another, are not able to use natural light

to grow marijuana. Instead, they use artificial lights to provide the light

energy which plants require to photosynthesize, regulate their metabolism,

and ultimately to grow. There are a number of sources of artificial

lighting. Cultivators rarely use incandescent or quartz halogen lights. They

convert only about 10% of the energy they use to light and are considered

inefficient.

Chart 10-1: Footcandles

+----------------------+----------------------+

| 1/60 Second, ASA 100 | 1/125 Second ASA 100 |

+--------+-------------+--------+-------------+

| F-Stop | Footcandles | F-Stop | Footcandles |

+--------+-------------+--------+-------------+

| f.4 | 64 | f.4 | 128 |

+--------+-------------+--------+-------------+

| f.5.6 | 125 | f.5.6 | 250 |

+--------+-------------+--------+-------------+

| f.8 | 250 | f.8 | 500 |

+--------+-------------+--------+-------------+

| f.11 | 500 | f.11 | 1000 |

+--------+-------------+--------+-------------+

| f.16 | 1000 | f.16 | 2000 |

+--------+-------------+--------+-------------+

| f.22 | 2000 | f.22 | 4000 |

+--------+-------------+--------+-------------+

On some cameras it is easier to adjust the shutter speed, keeping the f.stop

set at f.4 (at ASA 100):

+----------------+-------------+

| Shutter Speed | Footcandles |

+----------------+-------------+

| 1/60 | 64 |

+----------------+-------------+

| 1/125 | 125 |

+----------------+-------------+

| 1/250 | 250 |

+----------------+-------------+

| 1/500 | 500 |

+----------------+-------------+

| 1/1000 | 1000 |

+----------------+-------------+

| 1/2000 | 2000 |

+----------------+-------------+

FLUORESCENT TUBES

Growers have used flurorescent tubes to provide light for many years. They

are inexpensive, are easy to set up, and are very effective. Plants grow and

bud well under them. They are two to three times as efficient as

incandescents. Until recently, fluorescents came mostly in straight lengths

of 2, 4, 6, or 8 feet, which were placed in standard reflectors. Now there

are many more options for the fluorescent user. One of the most convenient

fixtures to use is the screw-in converter for use in incandescent sockets,

which come with 8 or 12 inch diameter circular fluorescent tubes. A U-shaped

9 inch screw-in fluorecent is also available. Another convenient fixture is

the "light wand", which is a 4 foot, very portable tube. It is not saddled

with a cumbersome reflector. Fluorescents come in various spectrums as

determined by the type of phosphor with which the surface of the tube is

coated. Each phosphor emits a different set of colors. Each tube has a

spectrum identification such as "warm white", "cool white", "daylight", or

"deluxe cool white" to name a few. This signifies the kind of light the tube

produces. For best results, growers use a mixture of tubes which have

various shades of white light. Once company manufactures a fluorescent tube

which is supposed to reproduce the sun's spectrum. It is called the

Vita-Lite and works well. it comes in a more efficient version, the "Power

Twist", which uses the same amount of electricity but emits more light

because it has a larger surface area. "Gro-Tubes" do not work as well as

regular fluorescents even though they produce light mainly in the red and

blue spectrums. They produce a lot less light than the other tubes.

To maintain a fast growing garden, a minimum of 20 watts of fluorescent

light per square foot is required. As long as the plants' other needs are

met, the more light that the plants receive, the faster and bushier they

will grow. The plants' buds will also be heavier and more developed.

Standard straight-tubed fluorescent lamps use 8-10 watts per linear foot. To

light a garden, 2 tubes are required for each foot of width. The 8 inch

diameter circular tubes use 22 watts, the 12 inch diameter use 32 watts.

Using straight tubes, it is possible to fit no more than 4 tubes in each

foot of width because of the size of the tubes. A unit using a combination

of 8 and 12 inch circular tubes has an input of 54 watts per square foot.

Some companies manufacture energy-saving electronic ballasts designed for

use with special fluorescent tubes. These units use 39% less electricity and

emit 91% of the light of standard tubes. For instance, an Optimizer warm

light white 4 foot tube uses 28 watts and emits 2475 lumens. Both standard

and VHO ballasts manufactured before 1980 are not recommended. They were

insulated using carcinogenic PCB's and they are a danger to your health

should they leak. The shape of the fluorescent reflector used determines, to

a great extent, how much light the plants receive. Fluorescent tubes emit

light from their entire surface so that some of the light is directed at the

reflector surfaces. Many fixtures place the tubes very close to each other

so that only about 40% of the light is actually transmitted out of the unit.

The rest of it is trapped between the tubes or between the tubes and the

reflector. This light may as well not be emitted since it is doing no good.

A better reflector can be constructed using a wooden frame. Place the tube

holders at equal distances from each other at least 4 inches apart. This

leaves enough space to construct small mini-reflectors which are angled to

reflect the light downward and to seperate the light from the different

tubes so that it is not lost in crosscurrents. These mini-reflectors can be

made from cardboard or plywood painted white. The units should be no longer

than 2.5 feet wide so that they can be manipulated easily. Larger units are

hard to move up and down and they make access to the garden difficult,

especially when the plants are small, and there is not much vertical space.

The frame of the reflector should be covered with reflective material such

as aluminum foil so that all of the light is directed to the garden.

Fluorescent lights should be placed about 2-4 inches from the tops of the

plants.

[pH:in Ed's diagram, the reflectors between the lights have a shape similar

to this:

* *

* *

* *

* *

*

Sort of a curving V, if you see what I mean.]

Growers sometimes use fluorescent lights in innovative ways to supplement

the main source of the light. Lights are sometimes placed along the sides of

the garden or in the midst of it. One grower used light wands which he hung

vertically in the midst of the garden. This unit provided light to the lower

parts of the plant which are often shaded. Another grower hung a tube

horizontally at plant level between each row. He used no reflector because

the tube shined on the plants from ever angle. Lights can be hung at

diagonal angles to match the different plants' heights.

VERY HIGH OUTPUT (VHO) FLUORESCENTS

Standard fluorescents use about 10 watts per linear foot - a 4 foot

fluorescent uses 40 watts, an 8 footer 72 watts. VHO tubes use about three

times the electricity that standard tubes use, or about 215 watts for an 8

foot tube, and they emit about 2.5 times the light. While they are not quite

as efficient as a standard tube, they are often more convenient to use. Two

tubes per foot produce the equivalent electricity of 5 standard tubes.

[pH:That's what he says. Why one would want the tubes to produce electricity

instead of light I will never know.] Only one tube per foot is needed and

two tubes emit a very bright light. The banks of tubes are eliminated.

VHO tubes come in the same spectrums as standards. They require different

ballasts than standards and are available at commercial lighting companies.

METAL HALIDE LAMPS

Metal halide lamps are probably the most popular lamp used for growing.

These are the same type of lamp that are used outdoors as streetlamps or to

illuminate sports events. They emit a white light. Metal halide lamps are

very convenient to use. They come ready to plug in. The complete unit

consists of a lamp (bulb), fixture (reflector) and long cord which plungs

into a remote ballast. The fixture and lamp are lightweight and are easy to

hang. Only one chain or rope is needed to suspend the fixture, which take up

little space, making it easy to gain access to the garden. In an

unpublished, controlled experiment, it was observed that marijuana plants

responded better to light if the light came from a single point source such

as a metal halide, rather than from emissions from a broad area as with

fluorescents. Plants growing under metal halides develop quickly into strong

plants. Flowering is profuse, with heavier budding than under fluroescents.

Lower leaf development was better too, because the light penetrated the top

leaves more.

Metal halide lamps are hung in two configurations: veritcal and horizontal.

The horizontal lamp focuses a higher percent of light on the garden, but it

emits 10% less light. Most manufacturers and distributors sell verically

hanging metal halides. However, it is worth the effort to find a horizontal

unit.

In order for a vertical hanging metal halide lamp to deliver light to the

garden efficiently, the horizontal light that is emitting must be directed

downward or the halide must be placed in the midst of the garden. It only

becomes practical to remove the reflector and let the horizontally directed

light radiate when the plants have grown a minimum of six feet tall.

Reflectors for vertical lamps should be at least as long as the lamp. If a

reflector does not cover the lamp completely, some of the light will be lost

horizontally. Many firms sell kits with reflectors which do not cover the

whole lamp.

Reflectors can be modified using thin guage wire such as poultry wire and

aluminum foil. A hole is cut out in the middle of the chicken wire frame so

that it fits over the wide end of the reflector. Then it is shaped so that

it will distribute the light as evenly as possible. Aluminum foil is placed

over the poultry wire. (One grower made an outer frame of 1 x 2's which held

the poultry wire, metal halide, and foil). Metal halide lamps come in 400,

1000, and 1500 watt sizes. The 1500 watt lamps are not recommended because

they have a much shorter life than the other lamps. The 400 watt lamps can

easily illuminate a small garden 5 x 5 feet or smaller. These are ideal

lights for a small garden. They are also good to brighten up dark spots in

the garden. In European nurseries, 400 watt horizontal units are standard.

They are attached to the ceiling and placed at even 5 foot intervals so that

light from several lamps hits each plant. Each lamp beam diffuses as the

vertical distance from the plants may be 6-8 feet, but no light is lost. The

beams overlap. No shuttle type device is required. The same method can be

used with horizontal 1000 watt lamps and 8 foot intervals. Vertical space

should be at least 12 feet.

HIGH PRESSURE SODIUM VAPOR LAMPS

Sodium vapor lamps emit an orange or amber-looking light. They are the steet

lamps that are commonly used these days. These lights look peculiar because

they emit a spectrum that is heavily concentrated in the yellow, orange, and

red spectrums with only a small amount of blue. They produce about 15% more

light than metal halides. They use the same configuration as metal halides:

lamp, reflector, and remote ballast. Growers originally used single sodium

vapor lamps primarily for flowering because they thought that if the extra

yellow and orange light was closer to the sun's spectrum in the fall, when

the amount of blue light reaching Earth was limited, the red light would

increase flowering or resin production. In another unpublished controlled

experiment, a metal halide lamp and a sodium vapor lamp were used as the

only sources of light in 2 different systems. The garden under the metal

halide matured about a week faster than the garden under the sodium vapors.

Resin content seemed about the same. Other growers have reported different

results. They claim that the sodium vapor does increase THC and resin

production. Plants can be grown under sodium vapor lights as the sole source

of illumination. Many growers use sodium vapor lamps in conjunction with

metal halides; a typical ratio is 2 halides to 1 sodium. Some growers use

metal halides during the growth stages but change to sodium vapor lamps

during the harvest cycle. This is not hard to do since both lamps fit in the

same reflector. The lamps use different ballasts.

High pressure sodium vapor lamps come in 400 and 100 watt configurations

with remote ballasts designed specifically for cultivation. Smaller wattages

designed for outdoor illumination are available from hardware stores. The

small wattage lamps can be used for brightening dark areas of the garden or

for hanging between the rows of plants in order to provide bright light

below the tops.

ACCESSORIES

One of the most innovative accessories for lighting is the "Solar Shuttle"

and its copies. This device moves a metal halide or sodium vapor lamp across

a track 6 feet or longer. Because the lamp is moving, each plant comes

directly under its field several times during the growing period. Instead of

plants in the center receiving more light than those on the edge, the light

is more equally distributed. This type of unit increases the total

efficiency of the garden. Garden space can be increased by 15-20% or the

lamp can be used to give the existing garden more light. Other units move

the lamps over an arc path. The units take various amounts of time to

complete a journey - from 40 seconds upward.

ELECTRICITY AND LIGHTING

At 110-120 volts, a 1000 watt lamp uses about 8.7 amps (watts divided by

volts equals amps). Including a 15% margin for safety it can be figured as

10 amps. Many household circuits are rated for 20 or 30 amps. Running 2

lights on a twenty amp circuit taxes it to capacity and is dangerous. If

more electricity is required than can be safely supplied on a circuit, new

wiring can be installed from the fusebox. All electrical equipment should be

grounded. Some growers report that the electrical company's interest was

aroused, sometimes innocently, when their electric bill began to spurt.

After all, each hour a lamp is on it uses about 1 kilowatt hour.

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - part 12 of 33

"Carbon Dioxide"

Carbon dioxide (CO2) is a gas which comprises about .03% (or 300 parts per

million, "PPM") of the atmosphere. It is not dangerous. it is one of the

basic raw materials (water is the other) required for photosynthesis. The

plant makes a sugar molecule using light for energy, CO2 which is pulled out

of the air, and water, which is pulled up from its roots. Scientists belive

that early in the Earth's history the atmosphere contained many times the

amount of CO2 it does today. Plants have never lost their ability to process

gas at these high rates. In fact, with the Earth's present atmosphere, plant

growth is limited. When plants are growing in an enclosed area, there is a

limited amount of CO2 for them to use. When the CO2 is used up, the plant's

photosynthesis stops. Only as more CO2 is provided can the plant use light

to continue the process. Adequate amounts of CO2 may be easily replaced in

well-ventilated areas, but increasing the amount of CO2 to .2% (2000 PPM) or

6 times the amount usually found in the atmosphere, can increase growth rate

by up to 5 times. For this reason, many commercial nurseries provide a CO2

enriched area for their plants.

Luckily, CO2 can be supplied cheaply. At the most organic level, there are

many metabolic processes that create CO2. For example, organic gardeners

sometimes make compost in the greenhouse. About 1/6 to 1/4 of the pile's

starting wet weight is converted to CO2 so that a 200 pound pile contributes

33-50 pounds of carbon to the gas. Carbon makes up about 27% of the weight

and volume of the gas and oxygen makes up 73%, so that the total amount of

CO2 created is 122 to 185 pounds produced over a 30 day period. Brewers and

vintners would do well to ferment their beverages in the greenhouse. Yeast

eat the sugars contained in the fermentation mix, released CO2 anf alcohol.

The yeast produce quite a bit of CO2, when they are active.

One grower living in a rural area has some rabbit hutches in his greenhouse.

The rabbits use the oxygen produced by the plants, and in return, release

CO2 by breathing. Another grower told me that he is supplying his plants

with CO2 by spraying them periodically with seltzer (salt-free soda water),

which is water with CO2 dissolved. He claims to double the plants' growth

rate. This method is a bit expensive when the plants are large, but

economical when they are small. A correspondent used the exhausts from his

gas-fired water heater and clothes dryer. To make the area safe of toxic

fumes that might be in the exhaust, he built a manually operated shut-off

valve so that the spent air could be directed into the growing chamber or up

a flue. Before he entered the room he sent any exhausts up the flue and

turned on a ventilating fan which drew air out of the room.

Growers do not have to become brewers, rabbit farmers, or spray their plants

with Canada Dry. There are several economical and convenient ways to give

the plants adequate amounts of CO2: using a CO2 generator, which burns

natural gas or kerosene, using a CO2 tank with regulator, or by evaporating

dry ice.

To find out how much CO2 is needed to bring the growing area to the ideal

2000 PPM, multiply the cubic area of the growing room (length x width x

height) by .002. The total represents the number of square feet of gas

required to reach optimum CO2 range. For instance, a room 13' x 18' x 12'

contains 2808 cubic feet: 2808 x .002 equals 5.6 cubic feet of CO2 required.

The easiest way to supply the gas is to use a CO2 tank. All the equipment

can be built from parts available at a welding suspply store or purchased

totally assembled from many growing supply companies. Usually tanks come in

20 and 50 pound sizes, and can be bought or rented. A tank which holds 50

pounds has a gross weight of 170 pounds when filled.

A grow room of 500 cubic feet requires 1 cubic foot of CO2 A grow room of

1000 cubic feet requires 2 cubic feet of CO2 A grow room of 5000 cubic feet

requires 10 cubic feet of CO2 A grow room of 10,000 cubic feet requires 20

cubic feet of CO2

To regulate dispersal of the gas, a combination flow meter/regulator is

required. Together they regulate the flow between 10 and 50 cubic feet per

hour. The regulator standardizes the pressure and regulates the number of

cubic feet released per hour. A solenoid valve shuts the flow meter on and

off as regulated by a multicycle timer, so the valve can be turned on and

off several times each day. If the growing room is small, a short-range

timer is needed. Most timers are calibrated in 1/2 hour increments, but a

short-range timer keeps the valve open only a few minutes. To find out how

long the valve should remain open, the numberof cubic feet of gas required

(in our example 5.6 feet) is divided by the flow rate. For instance, if the

flow rate is 10 cubic feet per hour, 5.6 divided by 10

.56 hours or 3 minutes (.56 X 60 minutes = 33 minutes). At 30 cubic feet

per hour, the number of minutes would be .56 divided by 30 X 60 minutes =

11.2 minutes. [pH:Oh me oh my, there's another mistake! The ".56" in the

latter equation should be 5.6, guess the people who did the book didn't

bother to check his math!]

The gas should be replenished ever two hours in a warm, well-lit room when

the plants are over 3 feet high if there is no outside ventilation. When

the plants are smaller or in a moderately lit room, they do not use the

CO2 as fast. With ventilation the gas should be replenished once an hour

or more frequently. Some growers have a ventilation fan on a timer in

conjunction with the gas. The fan goes off when the gas is injected into

the room. A few minutes before the gas is injected into the room, the fan

starts and removes the old air. The gas should be released above the

plants since the gas is heavier than air and sinks. A good way to disperse

the gas is by using inexpensive "soaker hoses", sold in plant nurseries.

These soaker hoses have tiny holes in them to let out the CO2. The CO2

tank is placed where it can be removed easily. A hose is run from the

regulator unit (where the gas comes out) to the top of the garden. CO2 is

cooler and heavier than air and will flow downward, reaching the top of

the plants first.

Dry ice is CO2 which has been cooled to -109 degrees, at which temperature

it becomes a solid. It costs about the same as the gas in tanks. It

usually comes in 30 pound blocks which evaporate at the rate of about 7% a

day when kept in a freezer. At room temperatures, the gas evaporates

considerably faster, probably supplying much more CO2 than is needed by

the plants. One grower worked at a packing plant where dry ice was used.

Each day he took home a couple of pounds, which fit into his lunch pail.

When he came home he put the dry ice in the grow room, where it evaporated

over the course of the day.

Gas and kerosene generators work by burning hydrocarbons which release

heat and create CO2 and water. Each pound of fuel burned produces about 3

pounds of CO2, 1.5 pounds of water and about 21,800 BTU's (British Thermal

Units) of heat. Some gases and other fuels may have less energy (BTU's)

per pound. The fuel's BTU rating is checked before making calculations.

Nursery supply houses sell CO2 generators especially designed for

greenhouses, but household style kerosene or gas heaters are also

suitable. They need no vent. The CO2 goes directly into the room's

atmosphere. Good heaters burn cleanly and completely, leaving no residues,

creating no carbon monoxide (a colorless, odorless, poisonous gas). Even

so, it is a good idea to shut the heater off and vent the room before

entering the space. If a heater is not working correctly, most likely it

burns the fuel incompletely, creating an odor. More expensive units have

pilots and timers; less expensive models must be adjusted manually.

Heaters with polits can be modified to use a solenoid valve and timer. At

room temperature, one pound of CO2 equals 8.7 cubic feet. It takes only

1/3 of a pound of kerosene (5.3 ounces) to make a pound of CO2. To

calculate the amount of fuel required, the number of cubic feet of gas

desired is divided by 8.7 and multiplied by .33. In our case, 5.6 cubic

feet divided by 8.7 times .33 equals .21 pounds of fuel. To find out how

many ounces this is, multiple .21 times 16 (the number of ounces in a

pound) to arrive at a total of 3.3 ounces, a little less than half a cup

(4 ounces).

3/5ths ounce provides 1 cubic foot of CO2 1.2 ounces produce 2 cubic feet of

CO2 3 ounces produce 5 cubic feet of CO2 6 ounces produce 10 cubic feet of

CO2

To find out fuel usage, divide the number of BTU's produced by 21,800. If a

generator produces 12,000 BTU's an hour, it is using 12,000 divided by

21,800 or about .55 pounds of fuel per hour. However only .21 pounds are

needed. To calculate the number of minutes the generator should be on, the

amount of fuel needed is divided by the flow rate and multiplied by 60. In

our case, .21 (amount of fuel needed) divided by .55 (flow rate) multiplied

by 60 equals 22.9 minutes.

The CO2 required for at least one grow room was supplied using gas lamps.

The grower said that she thought it was a shame that the fuel was used only

for the CO2 and thought her plants would benefit from the additional light.

She originally had white gas lamps spaced evenly throughout the garden. She

replaced them after the first crop with gas lamps all hooked up to a central

LP gas tank. She only had to turn the unit on and light the lamps each day.

It shut itself off. She claims the system worked very well. CO2 should be

replenished every 3 hours during the light cycle, since it is used up by the

plants and leaks from the room into the general atmosphere. Well-ventilated

rooms should be replenished more often. It is probably more effective to

have a generator or tank releasing CO2 for longer periods at slower rates

than for shorter periods of time at higher rates.

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - part 13 of 33

"Temperature"

Marijuana plants are very hardy and survive over a wide range of

temperatures. They can withstand extremely hot weather, up to 120 degrees,

as long as they have adequate supplies of water. Cannabis seedlings

regularly survive light frost at the beginning of the season. Both high and

low temperatures slow marijuana's rate of metabolism and growth. The plants

function best in moderate temperatures - between 60 and 85 degrees. As more

light is available, the ideal temperature for normal plant growth increases.

If plants are given high temperatures and only moderate light, the stems

elongate. Conversely, strong light and low temperatures decrease stem

elongation. During periods of low light, strong elongation is decreased by

lowering the temperature. Night temperatures should be 10-15 degrees lower

than daytime temperatures. Temperatures below 50 degrees slow growth of most

varieties. When the temperature goes below 40 degrees, the plants may

experience some damage and require about 24 hours to resume growth. Low

nighttime temperatures may delay or prevent bud maturation. Some equatorial

varieties stop growth after a few 40 degree nights.

A sunny room or one illuminated by high wattage lamps heats up rapdily.

During the winter the heat produced may keep the room comfortable. However

the room may get too warm during the summer. Heat rises, so that the

temperature is best measured at the plants' height. A room with a 10 foot

ceiling may feel uncomfortably warm at head level but be fine for plants 2

feet tall.

If the room has a vent or window, an exhaust fan can be used to cool it.

Totally enclosed spaces can be cooled using a water conditioner which cools

the air by evaporating water. If the room is lit entirely by lamps, the

day/night cycle can be reversed so that the heat is generated at night, when

it is cooler out.

Marijuana is a low-temperature tolerant. Outdoors, seedlings sometimes

pierce snow cover, and older plants can withstand short, light frosts.

Statistically, more males develop in cold temperatures. However, low

temperatures slow down the rate of plant metabolism. Cold floors lower the

temperature in containers and medium, slowing germination and growth.

Ideally, the medium temperature should be 70 degrees. There are several ways

to warm the medium. The floor can be insulated using a thin sheet of

styrofoam, foam rubber, wood or newspaper. The best way to insulate a

container from a cold floor is to raise the container so that there is an

air space between it and the floor.

Overhead fans, which circulate the warm air downward from the top of the

room also warm the medium.

When the plants' roots are kept warm, the rest of the plant can be kept

cooler with no damage. Heat cables or heat mats, which use small amounts of

electricity, can be used to heat the root area. These are available at

nursery supply houses.

When watering, tepid water should be used. Cultivators using systems that

recirculate water can heat the water with a fish tank heater and thermostat.

If the air is cool, 45-60 degrees, the water can be heated to 90 degres. If

the air is warm, over 60 degrees, 70 degrees for the water is sufficient.

The pipes and medium absorb the water down a bit before it reaches the

roots.

Gardens using artificial lighting can generate high air temperatures. Each

100 watt metal halide and ballast emits just a little less energy can a 10

amp heater. Several lights can raise the temperature to an intolerable

level. In this case a heat exchanger is required. A venting fan or misters

can be used to lower temperatures. Misters are not recommended for use

around lights.

Greenhouses can also get very hot during the summer. If the sun is very

bright, opaquing paint may lower the amount of light and heat entering the

greenhouse. Fans and cooling mats also help. Cooling mats are fibrous

plastic mats which hold moisture. Fans blow air through the mats which

lowers the greenhouse temperature. They are most effective in hot dry areas.

They are available througn nursery supply houses.

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - part 15 of 33

"pH and Water"

The pH is the measure of acid-alkalinity balance of a solution. It is

measured on a scale of 0-14, with 0 being the most acid, 7 being neutral,

and 14 being most alkaline. [pH:In case you're wondering, I'm a total 0!]

Most nutrients the plants use are soluble only in a limited range of

acidity, between about 6 to about 7.5, neutral. Should the water become too

acidic or alkaline, the nutrients dissolved in the water become too acidic

or alkaline, the nutrients dissolved in the water precipitate and become

unavailable to the plants. When the nutrients are locked up, plant growth is

slowed. Typically, a plant growing in an environment with a low pH will be

very small, often growing only a few inches in several months. Plants

growing in a high pH environment will look pale and sickly and also have

stunted growth. All water has a pH which can be measured using aquarium or

garden pH chemical reagent test kits or a pH meter. All of these items are

available at local stores and are easy to use. Water is pH-adjusted after

nutrients are added, since nutrients affect the pH. Once the water is tested

it should be adjusted if it does not fall within the pH range of 6 to 7.

Ideally the range should be about 6.2-6.8. Hydroponic supply companies sell

measured adjusters which are very convenient and highly recommended. The

water-nutrient solution can be adjusted using common household chemicals.

Water which is too acidic can be neutralized using bicarbonate of soda, wood

ash, or by using a solution of lime in the medium.

Water which is too alkaline can be adjusted using nitric acid, sulfuric

acid, citric acid (Vitamin C) or vinegar. The water is adjusted using small

increments of chemicals. Once a standard measure of how much chemical is

needed to adjust the water, the process becomes fast and easy to do. Plants

affect the pH of the water solution as they remove various nutrients which

they use. Microbes growing in the medium also change the pH. For this reason

growers check and adjust the pH periodically, about once every two weeks.

The pH of water out of the tap may change with the season so it is a good

idea to test it periodically.

Some gardeners let tap water sit for a day so that the chlorine evaporates.

They believe that chlorine is harmful to plants. The pH of the planting

medium affects the pH of the liquid in solution. Medium should be adjusted

so that it tests between 6.2-6.8. This is done before the containers are

filled so that the medium could be adjusted in bulk. Approximately 1-2 lbs.

of dolomitic limestone raises the pH of 100 gallons (4.5-9 grams per gallon)

of soil 1 point. Gypsum can be used to lower the pH of soil or medium. Both

limestone and gypmsum have limited solubility.

There are many forms of limestone which have various effectiveness depending

on their chemistry. Each has a rating on the package.

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - part 14 of 33

"Air and Humidity"

Besides temperatures and CO2 content, air has other qualities including dust

content, electrical charge and humidity.

Dust

"Dust" is actually composed of many different-sized solid and liquid

particles which float in the gaseous soup. The particles include organic

fibers, hair, other animal and vegetable particles, bacteria, viruses, smoke

and odoriferous liquid particles such as essential oils, and water-soluble

condensates. Virtually all of the particles have a positive electrical

charge, which means that they are missing an electron, and they float (due

to electrical charge) through various passing gases. The dust content of the

air affects the efficiency of the plant's ability to photosynthesize.

Although floating dust may block a small amount of light, dust which has

precipitated on leaves may block large amounts. Furthermore, the dust clogs

the pores through which plants transpire. Dust can easily be washedoff

leaves using a fine mist spray. Water must be prevented from touching and

shattering the hot glass of the lights.

Negative Ions

in unindustrialized verdant areas and near large bodies of water, the air is

negatively charged, that is, there are electrons floating in the air

unattached to atoms or molecules. In industrialized areas or very dry

regions, the air is positively charged; there are atoms and molecules

missing electrons.

Some researchers claim that the air's electrical charge affects plant growth

(and also animal behavior). They claim that plants in a positively charged

environment grow slower than those in a negatively charged area. Regardless

of the controversy regarding growth and the air's electrical charge, the

presence of negative ions creates some readily observable effects. Odors are

characteristic of positively charged particles floating in the air. A

surplus of negative ions causes the particles to precipitate so that there

are no odors. With enough negative ions, a room filled with pungent,

flowering sinsemilla is odorless. Spaces with a "surplus" negative ion

charge have clean, fresh smelling air. Falling water, which generates

negative ions, characteristically creates refreshing air. Dust particles are

precipitated so that there are fewer bacteria and fungus spores floating in

the air, as well as much less dust in general. This lowers the chance of

infection. Many firms manufacture "Negative Ion Generators", "Ionizers", and

"Ion Fountains", which disperse large quantities of negative ions into the

atmosphere. These units are inexpensive, safe and recommended for all

growing areas. Ion generators precipitate particles floating in the air.

With most generators, the precipitating particles land within a radius of

two feet of the point of dispersal, collecting quickly and developing into a

thick film of grime. Newspaper is placed around the unit so that the space

does not get soiled. Some newer units have a precipitator which collects

dust on a charged plate instead of the other surrounding surfaces. This

plate can be rougly simulated by grounding a sheet a aluminum foil. To

ground foil, either attach it directly to a metal plumbing line or grounding

box; for convenience, the foil can be held with an alligator clip attacked

to the electrical wire, which is attached to the grounding source. As the

foil gets soiled, it is replaced.

Humidity

Cannabis grows best in a mildly humid environment: a relative humidy of

40-60 percent. Plants growing in drier areas may experience chronic wilt and

necrosis of the leaf tips. Plants growing in a wetter environment usually

experience fewer problms; however, the buds are more susceptible to molds

which can attack a garden overnight and ruin a crop. Growers are rarely

faced with too dry a growing area. Since the space is enclosed, water which

is evaporated or transpired by the plants increases the humidity

considerably. If there is no ventilation, a large space may reach saturation

level within a few days. Smaller spaces usually do not have this buildup

because there is usually enough air movement to dissipate the humdity. The

solution may be as easy as opening a window. A small ventilation fan can

move quite a bit of air out of a space and may be a convenient way of

solving the problem. Humidity may be removed using a dehumidifier in gardens

without access to convenient ventilation. Dehumidifiers work the same way a

refrigerator does except that instead of cooling a space, a series of tubes

is cooled causing atmospheric water to condense. The smallest dehumidifiers

(which can dry out a large space) use about 15 amps. Usually the

dehumidifier needs to run only a few hours a day. If the plant regimen

includes a dark cycle, then the dehumidifier can be run when the lights are

off, to ease the electrical load.

Air Circulation

A close inspection of a marijuana leaf reveals many tiny hairs and a rough

surface. Combined, these trap air and create a micro-environment around the

plant. The trapped air contains more humidity and oxygen and is warmer,

which differs significantly in the composition and temperature from the

surrounding atmosphere. The plant uses CO2 so there is less left in the air

surrounding the leaf. Marijuana depends on air currents to move this air and

renew the micro-environment. If the air is not moved vigorously, the growth

rate slows, since the micro-environment becomes CO2 depleted. Plants develop

firm, sturdy stems as the result of environmental stresses. Outdoors, the

plants sway with the wind, causing tiny breaks in the stem. These are

quickly repaired bythe plant's reinforcing the original area and leaving it

stronger than it was originally. Indoors, plants don't usually need to cope

with these stresses so their stems grow weak unless the plants receive a

breeze or are shaken by the stems daily. A steady air flow form the outdoor

ventilation may be enough to keep the air moving. If this is not available,

a revolving fan placed several feet from the nearest plant or a slow-moving

overhead fan can solve the problem. Screen all air intake fans to prevent

pests.

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - part 16 of 33

"Nutrients"

Marijuana requires a total of 14 nutrients which it obtains through its

roots. Nitrogen (N), Phosophorous (P), and Potassium (K) are called the

macro-nutrients because they are used in large quantities by the plant. The

percentages of N, P, and K are always listed in the same order on fertilizer

packages.

Calcium (Ca), sulfur (S), and magnesium (Mg) are also required by the plants

in fairly large quantities. These are often called the secondary nutrients.

Smaller amounts of iron (Fe), zinc (Zn), manganese (Mn), boron (B), cobalt

(Co), copper (Cu), molybdenum (Mo) and chlorine (Cl) are also needed. These

are called micro-nutrients.

[pH:And you thought chemistry wasn't good for anything!] Marijuana requires

more N before flowering than later in its cycle. When it begins to flowe,

marijuana's use of P increases. Potassium requirements increase after plants

are fertilized as a result of seed production. Plants which are being grown

in soil mixes or mixes with nutrients added such as compost, manure or

time-releasing fertilizers may need no additional fertilizing or only

supplemental amounts of the plants begin to show deficiencies.

The two easiest and most reliable ways to meet the plant's needs are to use

a prepared hydroponic fertilizer or an organic water-soluble fertilizer.

Hydroponic fertilizers are blended as complete balanced formulas. Most

non-hydroponic fertilizers usually contain only the macronutrients (N, P,

and K). Organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion and other blends contain

trace elements which are found in the organic matter from which they are

derived.

Most indoor plant fertilizers are water-soluble. A few of them are

time-release formulas which are mixed into the medium as it is being

prepared. Plants grown in soil mixes can usually get along using regular

fertilizers but plants grown in prepared soilless mixes definitely require

micronutrients.

As the seeds germinate they are given a nutrient solution high in N such as

a 20-10-10 or 17-10-12. These are just two possible formulas; any with a

high proportion of N will do.

Formulas which are not especially high in N can be used and supplemented

with a high N ferilizer such as fish emulsion (which may create an odor) or

the Sudbury X component fertilizer which is listed 44-0-0. Urine is also

very high in N and is easily absorbed by the plants. It should be diluted to

one cup urine per gallon of water.

The plants should be kept on a high N fertilizer regimen until they are put

into the flowering regimen.

During the flowering cycle, the plants do best with a formula lower in N and

higher in P, which promotes bloom. A fertilizer such as 5-20-10 or 10-19-12

will do. (Once again, these are typical formulas, similar ones will do).

Growers who make their own nutrient mixes based on parts per million of

nutrient generally use the following formulas.

Chart 15-1: Nutrient/Water Solution In Parts Per Million (PPM)

+-----------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+

| | N | P | K |

+-----------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+

| Germination - 15 to 20 days | 110-150 | 70-100 | 50-75 |

+-----------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+

| Fast Growth | 200-250 | 60-80 | 150-200 |

+-----------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+

| Pre-Flowering | 70-100 | 100-150 | 75-100 |

| 2 weeks before turning light down | | | |

+-----------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+

| Flowering | 0-50 | 100-150 | 50-75 |

+-----------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+

| Seeding - fertilized flowers | 100-200 | 70-100 | 100-150 |

+-----------------------------------+---------+---------+---------+

Plants can be grown using a nutrient solution containing no N for the last

10 days. Many of the larger leaves yellow and wither as the N migrates from

the old to the new growth. The buds are less green and have less of a minty

(chlorophyll) taste.

Many cultivators use several brands and formulas of fertilizer. They either

mix them together in solution or switch brands each feeding. Plant N

requirements vary by weather as well as growth cycle. Plants growing under

hot conditions are given 10-20% less N or else they tend to elongate and to

grow thinner, weaker stalks. Plants in a cool or cold regimen may be given

10-20% more N. More N is given under high light conditions, less is used

under low light conditions. Organic growers can make "teas" from organic

nutrients by soaking them in water. Organic nutrients usually contain

micronutrients as well as the primary ones. Manures and blood meal are among

the most popular organic teas, but other organic sources of nutrients

include urine, which may be the best source for N, as well as blood meal and

tankage. Organic fertilizers vary in their formulas. The exact formula is

usually listed on the label. Here is a list of common organic fertilizers

which can be used to make teas:

Chart 15-2: Organic Fertilizers

+----------------+-----+------+------+---------------------------------+

| Fertilizer | N | P | K | Remarks |

| Bloodmeal | 15 | 1.3 | .7 | Releases nutrients easily |

| Cow manure | 1.5 | .85 | 1.75 | The classic tea. Well- |

| (dried) | | | | balanced formula. Medium |

| | | | | availability. |

+----------------+-----+------+------+---------------------------------+

| Dried blood | 13 | 3 | 0 | Nutrients dissolve easier |

| | | | | than bloodmeal |

+----------------+-----+------+------+---------------------------------+

| Chicken manure | 3.5 | 1.5 | .85 | Excellent nutrients |

+----------------+-----+------+------+---------------------------------+

| Wood ashes | 0 | 1.5 | 7 | Water-soluble. Very alkaline |

| | | | | except with acid wood such |

| | | | | as walnut |

+----------------+-----+------+------+---------------------------------+

| Granite dust | 0 | 0 | 5 | Dissolves slowly |

+----------------+-----+------+------+---------------------------------+

| Rock phosphate | 0 | 35 | 0 | Dissolves gradually |

| (phosphorous) | | | | |

+----------------+-----+------+------+---------------------------------+

| Urine (human, | .5 | .003 | .003 | N immediately available |

| fresh) | | | | |

+----------------+-----+------+------+---------------------------------+

Commercial water-soluble fertilizers are available. Fish emulsion fertilizer

comes in 5-1-1 and 5-2-2 formulas and has been used by satisfied growers for

years.

A grower cannot go wrong changing hydroponic water/nutrient solutions at

least once a month. Once every two weeks is even better. The old solution

could be measured, reformulated, supplemented and re-used; unless large

amounts of fertilizer are used, such as in a large commercial greenhouse, it

is not worth the effort. The old solution may have many nutrients left, but

it may be unbalanced since the plants have drawn specific chemicals. The

water can be used to water houseplants or an outdoor garden, or to enrich a

compost pile.

Experienced growers fertilize by eyeing the plants and trying to determine

their needs when minor symptoms of deficiencies become apparent. If the

nutrient added cures the deficiency, the plant usually responds in apparent

ways within one or two days. First the spread of the symptom stops. With

some minerals, plant parts that were not too badly damaged begin to repair

themselves. Plant parts which were slightly discolored may return to normal.

Plant parts which were severely damaged or suffered from necrosis do not

recover. The most dramatic changes usually appear in new growth. These parts

grow normally. A grower can tell just by plant parts which part grew before

deficiencies were corrected. [pH:What's in yer nuggets? Parts. Plant parts.

Processed plant parts. HAHAHAHAHAHAHA] Fertilizers should be applied on the

low side of recommended rates. Overdoses quickly (within hours) result in

wilting and then death. The symptoms are a sudden wilt with leaves curled

under. To save plants suffering from toxic overdoses of nutrients, plain

water is run through systems to wash out the medium.

Gardens with drainage can be cared for using a method commercial nurseries

employ. The plants are watered each time with a dilute nutrient/water

solution, usually 20-25% of full strength. Excess water runs off. While this

method uses more water and nutrients than other techniques, it is easy to

set up and maintain.

When nutrient deficiencies occur, especially multiple or micronutrient

deficiencies, there is a good chance that the minerals are locked up

(precipitated) because of pH. [pH:That's not very fair, I wasn't even

there!] Rather than just adding more nutrients, the pH must be checked

first. If needed, the pH must be changed by adjusting the water. If the pH

is too high, the water is made a lower pH than it would ordinarily be; if

too low the water is made a higher pH. To get nutrients to the plant parts

immediately, a dilute foliar spray is used. If the plant does not respond to

the foliar spray, it is being treated with the wrong nutrient.

NUTRIENTS

Nitrogen (N)

Marijuana uses more N than any other nutrient. It is used in the manufacture

of chlorophyll. N migrates from old growth to new, so that a shortage is

likely to cause first pale green leaves and then the yellowing and withering

of the lowers leaves as the nitrogen travels to new buds. Other deficiency

symptoms include smaller leaves, slow growth and a sparse rather than bushy

profile.

N-deficient plants respond quickly to fertilization. Within a day or two,

pale leaves become greener and the rate and size of new growth increases.

Good water-soluble sources of nitrogen include most indoor and hydroponic

fertizliers, fish emulsion, and urine, along with teas made from manures,

dried blood or bloodmeal. There are many organic additives which release N

over a period of time that can be added to the medium at the time of

planting. These include manures, blood, cottonseed meal, hair, fur, or

tankage.

Phosphorous (P)

P is used by plants in the transfer of light energy to chemical compounds.

It is also used in large quantities for root growth and flowering. Marijuana

uses P mostly during early growth and flowering. Fertilizers and nutrient

mixes usually supply adequate amounts of P during growth stages so plants

usually do not experience a deficiency. Rock phosphate and bone meal are the

organic fertilizers usually recommended for P deficiency. However they

release the mineral slowly, and are more suited to outdoor gardening than

indoors. They can be added to medium to supplement soluble fertilizers.

P-devicient plants have small dark green leaves, with red stems and red

veins. The tips of lower leaves sometimes die. Eventually the entire lower

leaves yellow and die. Fertilization affects only new growth. Marijuana uses

large quantities of P during flowering. Many fertilizer manufacturers sell

mixes high in P specifically for blooming plants.

Potassium (K)

K is used by plants to regulate carbohydrate metabolism, chlorophyll

synthesis, and protein synthesis as well as to provide resistance to

disease. Adequate amounts of K result in strong, sturdy stems while slightly

deficient plants often grow taller, thinner stems. Plants producing seed use

large amounts of K. Breeding plants can be given K supplements to assure

well-developed seed. Symptoms of greater deficiencies are more apparent on

the sun leaves (the large lower leaves). Necrotic patches are found on the

leaf tips and then in patches throughout the leaf. The leaves also look pale

green. Stems and flowers on some plants turn deep red or purple as a result

of K deficiencies. However, red stems are a genetic characteristic of some

plants so this symptom is not foolproof. Outdoors, a cold spell can

precipitate K and make it unavailable to the plants, so that almost

overnight the flowers and stems turn purple. K deficiency can be treated

with any high-K fertilizer. Old growth does not absorb the nutrient and will

not be affected. However, the new growth will show no signs of deficiency

within 2 weeks. For faster results the fetilizer can be used as a foliar

spray. K deficiency does not seem to be a crucial problem. Except for the

few symptoms, plants do not seem to be affected by it.

Calcium (Ca)

Ca is used during cell splitting, and to build the cell membranes. Marijuana

also stores "excess" Ca for reasons unknown. I have never seen a case of Ca

deficiency in cannabis. Soils and fertilizers usually contain adequate

amounts. It should be added to planting mixes when they are being formulated

at the rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon or 1/2 cup per cubic foot of medium.

Sulfur (S)

S is used by the plant to help regulate metabolism, and as a constituent of

some vitamins, amino acids and proteins. It is plentiful in soil and

hydroponic mixes.

S deficiencies are rare. First, new growth yellows and the entire plant

pales.

s deficiencies are easily solved using Epsom salts at the rate of 1

tablespoon per gallon of water.

Magnesium (Mg)

Mg is the central atom in chlorophyll and is also used in production of

carbohydrates. (Chlorophyll looks just like hemoglobin in blood, but has a

Mg atom. Hemoglobin has an Fe atom). In potted plants, Mg deficiency is

fairly common, since many otherwise well-balanced fertilizers do not contain

it.

Deficiency symptoms start on the lower leaves which turn yellow, leaving

only the veins green. The leaves curl up and die along the tips and edges.

Growing shoots are pale green and, as the condition continues, turn almost

white.

Mg deficiency is easily treated using Epsom salts (MgSO4) at the rate of 1

tablespoon per gallon of water. For faster results, a foliar spray is used.

Once Mg deficiency occurs, Epsom salts should be added to the solution each

time it is changed. Dolomitic limestone contains large amounts of Mg.

Iron (Fe)

Fe deficiency is not uncommon. The growing shoots are pale or white, leaving

only dark green veins. The symptoms appear similar to Mg deficiencies but Fe

deficiencies do not affect the lower leaves. Fe deficiencies are often the

result of acid-alkalinity imbalances. Fe deficiencies sometimes occur

together with zinc (Zn) and manganese (Mn) deficiencies so that several

symptoms appear simultaneously. Deficiencies can be corrected by adjusting

the pH, adding rusty water to the medium, or using a commercial supplement.

Fe supplements are sold alone or in a mix combined with Zn and Mn. To

prevent deficiencies, some growers add a few rusting nails to each

container. One grower using a reservoir system added a pound of nails to the

holding tank. The nails added Fe to the nutrient solution as they rusted.

Dilute foliar sprays can be used to treat deficiencies.

Manganese (Mn)

Symptoms of Mn deficiency include yellowing and dying of tissue between

veins, first appearing on new growth and then throughout the plant.

Deficiencies are solved using an Fe-Zn-Mn supplement.

Zinc (Zn)

Zn deficiency is noted first as yellowing and necrosis of older leaf margins

and tips and then as twisted, curled new growth. Treatment with a Fe-Zn-Mn

supplement quickly relieves symptoms. A foliar spray speeds the nutrients to

the leaf tissue.

Boron (B)

B deficiency is uncommon and does not usually occur indoors. Symptoms of B

deficiency start at the growing tips, which turn grey or brown and then die.

This spreads to the lateral shoots. A B deficiency (pH:A, B, deficient C!)

is treated by using 1/2 teaspoon boric acid, available in pharmacies, added

to a gallon of water. One treatment is usually sufficient.

Molybdenum (Mo)

Mo is used by plants in the conversion of N to forms that the plant can use.

It is also a consituent of some enzymes. Deficiency is unusual indoors.

Symptoms start with paleness, then yellowing of middle leaves which progress

to the new shoots and growing tips, which grow twisted. The early symptoms

almost mimic N deficiency. Treatment with N may temporarily relieve the

symptoms but they return within a few weeks. Mo is included in hydroponic

fertilizers and in some trace element mixes. It can be used as a foliar

spray.

Copper (Cu)

Cu is used by plants in the transfer of electrical charges which are

manipulated by the plant to absorb nutrients and water. It is also used in

the regulation of water content and is a constituent of some enzymes. Cu

deficiencies are rare and mimic symptoms of overfertilization. The leaves

are limp and turn under at the edges. Tips and edges of the leaves may die

and whole plant looks wilted.

A fungicide, copper sulfate, (CuSO$) can be used as a foliar spray to

relieve the deficiency.

NUTRIENT ADDITIVES

Various additives are often suggested to boost the nutrient value of the

water/nutrient solution. Here are some of them: WETTING AGENTS. Water holds

together through surface tension, preventing it from dispersing easily over

dry surfaces. Wetting agents decrease the surface tension and allow the

water to easily penetrate evenly throughout the medium preventing dry spots.

Wetting agents are helpful when they are used with fresh medium and as an

occasional additive. Wetting agents should not be used on a regular basis.

They may interfere with plants' ability to grow root hairs, which are

ordinarily found on the roots. They are available at most plant nurseries.

SEAWEED. Washed, ground seaweed contains many trace elements and minerals

used by plants. It may also contain some hormones or organic nutrients not

yet identified.

KELP. Kelp seems to be similar to seaweed in nutrient value. Proponents

claim that it has other, as yet undefined organic chemicals that boost plant

growth.

SEA WATER. Salt water contains many trace elements and organic compounds.

Some hydroponists claim that adding 5-10% sea water to the nutrient solution

prevents trace element problems. It may be risky.

DEFICIENCIES OF NUTRIENT ELEMENTS IN MARIJUANA

Suspected Element

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Symptoms | N | P | K | Mg | Fe | Cu | Zn | B | Mo | Mn| Over |

| | | | | | | | | | | |Fertil|

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Yellowing of: | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | |

| Younger leaves | | | | | X | | | | | X | |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Middle leaves | | | | | | | | | X | | |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Older leaves | X | | X | X | | | X | | | | |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Between veins | | | | X | | | | | | X | |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Old leaves drop | X | | | | | | | | | | |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Leaf Curl Over | | | | X | | | | | | | |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Leaf Curl Under | | | X | | | X | | | | | X |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Leaf tips burn | | | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | | | |

| Younger leaves | | | | | | | | X | | | |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Older leaves | X | | | | | | X | | | | |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Young leaves wrinkle | | | | | | | | | | | |

| and curl | | | X | | | | X | X | X | | |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Necrosis | | | X | X | X | | X | | | X | |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Leaf growth stunted | X | X | | | | | | | | | |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Dark green/purplish | | | | | | | | | | | |

| leaves and stems | | X | | | | | | | | | |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Pale green leaf color| X | | | | | | | | X | | |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Mottling | | | | | | | X | | | | |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Spindly | X | | | | | | | | | | |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Soft stems | X | | X | | | | | | | | |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Hard/brittle stems | | X | X | | | | | | | | |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Growing tips die | | | X | | | | | X | | | |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Stunted root growth | | X | | | | | | | | | |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

| Wilting | | | | | | X | | | | | |

+----------------------+---+---+---+----+----+----+----+---+----+---+------+

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - part 17 of 33

"Novel Gardens"

Many people who would like to grow their own think that they don't have the

space. There are novel techniques that people can use to grow grass

anywhere. Even people with only a closet, crawl space or just a shelf can

grow their own.

The smallest space that can be used is a shelf 15-24 inches high. First, the

space should be prepared as any other garden by making it reflective, using

flat white paint, the dull side of aluminum foil, or white plastic.

Fluorescents are the easiest and best way to illuminate the space. About

twenty watts per square foot are used, or two tubes per foot of width. VHO

fluorescents can be used to deliver more light to the system. Plants can be

started in 6 ounce cups or 8 to 16 ounce milk cartons placed in trays for

easier handling.

With a shelf of 3 feet or higher, plants can be grown in larger containers

such as 4 to 6 inch pots, half gallon milk containers trimmed to hold only a

quart.

The plants can be grown vertically only, as they normally grow, or moved to

a horizontal position so that the main stem runs parallel to the light

tubes. The plants' new growth will immediately face upwards towards the

light. One gardener used an attic space only 4 feet tall. She let the plants

grow until they reached 3 feet and then turned them on their side. They used

more floor space so she opened up a second bank of lights. At maturity, the

plants were 3.5 feet long and 2.5 feet tall. Another grower turned his

basement with an 8 foot ceiling into a duplex growing chamber. Each unit had

3 foot tall plants. If the plants are to be turned horizontally, then they

are best grown in plastic bags or styrofoam cups so that they can be watered

easily in their new positions. After being turned on the side, a hole is cut

in the new top so the plants can be watered easily.

Some growers have wall space without much depth. This space can be converted

to a growing area very easily. The space is painted white and a curtain is

made so that the space is seperated from the surrounding environment; this

will keep light in and offers protection from nosey guests.

The fluorescents should be placed so that they form a bank facing the

plants. Although the plants naturally spread out, their depth or width can

be controlled by training them using stakes or chicken wire placed on a

frame. Wire or plastic netting is attached to the walls so that there is at

least a 1 inch space between the wire and the wall. Some people build a

frame out of 2x4's. Twist ties are used to hold the branches to the frame.

Additional light can be supplied by placing a fluorescent unit on either end

of the garden or along its length.

Growers who have a little more space for their garden, with a minimum width

of 1 or 2 feet, can grow plants without training them. Fluorescent lights

can be used to light the garden by hanging the light fixture from the top.

All sides should be covered with reflective material. A metal halide lamp

mounted on a movable apparatus will help the plants grow even faster so that

the entire garden is illuminated several times during each light cycle. Some

people can spare only a small closet. Closets usually are designed in one of

two shapes: square or long and rectangular. In any closet up to six feet

long the simplest way to grow is by painting the inside of the closet white

and hanging a metal halide light from the ceiling. Closets with dimensions

of 5x5 or less need only a 400 watt metal halide although they can

accomodate 1000 watt lamps. Larger areas need at least two 400 watt halide

lamps.

Thin, rectangular closets are served best by a metal halide unit mounted on

a solar shuttle type device. A fluorescent light unit hung from above the

garden also works well. Additional fluorescent tubes can be used to

supplement the top lights. It is convenient to mount them on either end of

the hanging fixture if the closet is long enough so that they do not use

potential growing space. A closet 2 feet by 7 feet might be illuminated by a

400 watt metal halide on a track, two 6 foot long VHOs or 4 regular

fluorescent tubes hung from the ceiling. A grower might also use 14 screw-in

8 inch circular reflectors mounted on two 2x4s and hung above the garden.

About 8 combination 8 and 12 inch circular fixtures will also light the

area.

As the plants grow taller, fluorescent lit gardens will respond to

fluorescent tubes placed on the sides of the garden below the tops of the

plants. This light wll help lower buds develop. One of the main problems

inherent in the nature of small gardens is the lack of ventilation and CO2.

For good growth rates the air should be enriched with CO2 or provided with a

fan for ventilation.

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - part 18 of 33

"Containers"

To save space, plants can be germinated in small containers and transplanted

to progressively larger ones. Seeds can be germinated in 2 x 1 inch trays or

in peat pellets and remain in these containers for about one week. Four inch

diameter containers can hold the plants for 2 to 3 weeks without inhibiting

growth.

Styrofoam cups weighted at the bottom with sand or gravel so they don't tip

over are convenient germinating containers. If plants are to be germinated

at one location and then moved to another location, styrofoam and other

lightweight plastic cups are ideal containers. Six ounce cups hold plants

for about 7-10 days after germination. Sixteen ounce cups hold plants 10-20

days, as long as the plants receive frequent water replenishments.

Half gallon containers can support plants for 25-40 days. Plants probably

grow a bit faster without being transplanted. However, the saving in space

for a multi-crop system or even a multi-light system more than compensates

for the loss in growth rate. Figure that each transplanting costs the plants

3-4 days of growth. Growers using a 2 light system need to use only one lamp

for the first 4-6 weeks the plants are growing. Multi-crop gardens need to

use only a fraction of the space for the first 3 to 8 weeks after

germination. Some growers sex the plants before either the first or second

transplanting. They find it easier to control the light-darkness cycle in a

small space. Another crop's flowering cycle may coincide with the seedlings.

To sex the small plants, only a small area is required in the grow room.

A good rule of thumb is that for each two feet of growth, a half gallon of

growing medium is required in a garden in which fertilizers are supplied

throughout the growing period. A 2 foot plant requires a 1/2 gallon

container, a 5 foot plant uses a 2.5 gallon container and a 10 foot plant

requires a 5 gallon unit. Of course, plants' width or depth varies too, so

these are approximations. Certainly there is no harm done in growing a plant

in a container larger than is required. However, growing plants in

containers which are too small delays growth or may even stunt the plants.

Plants growing in soil or compost-based mediums do better in slightly larger

containers. A rule of thumb for them is a 3/4 gallon medium for each foot of

growth. A 5 foot plant requires a 3 and 3/4 gallon container. One grower

wrote "I never use more than 4 gallon containers and have grown plants to 12

feet high with no signs of deficiencies. I was able to water at 2-3 day

intervals. My 3 month old plants under light were in 1/2 gallon containers

with and without wicks." This grower always uses small (1/2 gallon)

containers for his spring greenhouse crop. A plant growing in an

organic-based medium such as soil-compost-manure and additives needs no

fertilization if it is given a large enough container. For a five month

growing season, plants in a rich mixture require 1 to 1.5 gallons medium per

foot. A 5 foot plant requires a container holding 5-7.5 gallons.

Containers should have a slight graduation so that plants and medium can

slide out easily.

Plastic containers or pots are the most convenient to use. They are

lightweight, do not break and are inert. Metal containers react with the

nutrients in the solution. Plastic bags are convenient containers. Grow bags

have a square bottom so that they balance easily. However growers use all

kinds of plastic bags for cultivation. Fiber containers are also popular.

They are inexpensive, last several growing seasons and are easy to dispose

of.

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - part 19 of 33

"When to Plant"

Marijuana growers using only artificial light can start at any time since

the grower determines the plant's environment and stimulates seasonal

variations by adjusting the light/darkness periods. Gardeners using natural

light either as a primary or secondary source must take the seasons into

account. They plant in the spring - from April through June. These plants

will be harvested between September and November and no artificial light may

be needed as long as there is plenty of direct sunshine. Supplemental

artificial light may help the plants to maturity in the fall, when the sun's

intensity declines and there are overcast days. The angle of the sun's path

changes over the season too. Areas may receive indirect sun during part of

the growing season. In overcast areas, and even sunny places receiving

direct sunlight, 4-6 hours of supplemental metal halide light during the

brightest part of the day is all that is needed during September/October to

help the buds mature. One lamp will cover about 100 square feet or an area

10 by 10 feet. Growers using natural light are not restricted to one season.

It is feasible to grow 3 or 4 crops a year using supplemental light. In

early October, before the plants are harvested, seeds are started in a

seperate area. Since little room is needed for the first few weeks, they can

be germinated on a shelf. In addition to natural light, the plants should

get a minimum of 6 hours of artificial light per day at the rate of about 10

watts per square foot.

For fastest growth, the plants should receive 24 hours of light a day.

Seedlings may receive light only during normal day light hours except that

they require an interruption of the night cycle so they do not go into the

flowering stage prematurely. If metal halide lamps are being used, a

seperate light system should be installed with incandescent or fluorescent

lights on a timer so that the seedlings do not have a long period of

uninterrupted darkness. One 60 watt incandescent bulb or one 22 watt

fluorescent tube is used per square yard (3 by 3 feet). The bulbs can be

flashed on for a few minutes using a multi-cycle timer during the middle of

the dark period. Gardeners with large spaces sometimes stagger the timing of

the night lights.

Incandescent bulbs are not very effecient, but they provide enough light to

prevent flowering, they are easy and inexpensive to set up and maintain, and

they light up almost immediately. In addition, they emit a high percentage

of red light, which is part of the spectrum used by plants to regulate

photoperiod responses.. Metal halides require about 10 minutes to attain

full brightness. Metal halide ballasts wear out faster when they are turned

on and off a lot, so it is cheaper to flash incandescents. In late December,

the incandescents are turned off so that they no longer interrupt the night

cycle. Within a week or two the plants will begin to flower. They will be

ready to harvest in 6 or 8 weeks. At the same time that the incandescents

are turned off the winter crop, seeds are started for the spring crop. They

are kept on the interrupted night regimen until late winter, around March

1-10. The plants will begin to flower and be ready in late May and early

June. The spring crop should be planted with short season plants so that

they do not revert back to vegetative growth as the days get longer. Long

season varieties are more likely to revert.

After the flowers are formed, the spring crop plants will revert back to

vegetative growth. New leaves will appear and the plant will show renewed

vigor. The plant can be harvested again in the fall, or new seds can be

germinated for the fall crop.

One grower reported that he makes full use of his greenhouse. He starts his

plants indoors in late November and starts the flowering cycle in the

beginning of Februaru. The plants are ripe by the end of April, then he lets

the plants go back into vegetative growth for a month and a half. Then he

starts to shade them again and harvests in late August. Next he puts out

new, month-old, foot-high plants. He lets them grow under natural light, but

breaks the darkness cycle using incandescent lights. In mid-September he

shuts the lights off, and the plants mature in early November.

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - part 20 of 33

"Planting"

Growers usually figure that 1/4 - 1/3 of the seeds they plant reach

maturity. Usually 40-50% of the plants are male. The best females are chosen

for continued growth during early growth but after the plants have

indicated.

Most fresh seeds have a very high germination rate, usually about 95%.

However, older seeds (more than 2 or 3 years old) or seeds imported from

foreign countries where they undergo stress during curing, may not fare so

well. They have a higher percentage of weak plants and they are subject to

disease. Sometimes virtually all of the seeds from a batch of imported

marijuana are dead.

Intact seeds which are dark brown or grey have the best chance of

germinating. Seeds which are whitish, light tan or cracked are probably not

viable. Most guide books suggest that growers plant the largest seeds in a

batch, but the size of the seed is genetically as well as environmentally

determined and does not necessarily relate to its germination potential. If

the seeds are fresh, they can be planted one per container. They may be

planted in the container in which they are to grow to maturity or in a

smaller vessel. Some growers find it more convenient to plant the seeds in

small containers to save space during early growth. Seeds with a dubious

chance of germination are best started in tissue and then placed in pots as

they show signs of life. The wet tissue, napkin or sponge is placed in a

container or on a plate, and is covered with plastic wrap. The seeds are

check every 12 hours for germination. As soon as the root cracks the skin,

the seedling is planted with the emerging point down. Seeds can also be

started in tray pots so that large numbers can be tried without using much

space.

Seedlings and cuttings can be placed in the refrigerator - not the freezer -

to slow down their growth if it is inconvenient to plant at the moment. They

can be stored in the vegetable crisper of the refrigerator for a week or

more, in a moistoned plastic bag. The temperature should be kept above 40

degrees to prevent cell damage. This does not adversely affect the plant's

later growth, and, in fact, is an easy way to harden the plants up that are

placed outdoors later. [pH:I have wondered if the plants were grown in the

refrigerator all the way through picking, and its offspring (from seed) were

also grown in such cold temperatures, if future generations of the plant

would be able to grow, outside, through winter, by itself.] Seeds should be

sown 1/4 - 1/2 inch deep, covered, and then the medium should be patted

down. Seeds sown in light soil or planting mixes can be sown one inch deep.

Some growers treat the seeds with B1 or the rooting hormone, indolebutyric

acid, which is sold as an ingredient in many rooting solutions. Seeds

germinated in covered trays or mini-greenhouses grow long, splindly stems

unless the top is removed as the first seedlings pop the soil. The medium

must be kept moist.

One way to make sure that the medium remains moist is to plant the seeds in

containers or nursery trays which have been modified to use the wick system.

To modify a tray, nylon cord is run horizontally through holes in each of

the small growing spaces. The cord should extend downward into a leakproof

holder. (Trays come with 2 kinds of holders. Some have drainage holes and

some are solid.) The tray is raised from the holder using a couple of pieces

of 2x4's running lengthwise which keep tray holders filled with water. The

tray will remain moist as long as there is water in the bottom. If the tray

is to be moved, it is placed in cardboard box or over a piece of plywood

before being filled with water. The light is kept on continuously until the

seeds germinate. Most seeds germinate in 3-14 days. Usually fresh seeds

germinate faster than old ones.

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - part 21 of 33

"Early Growth"

Once the seeds germinate, the light is kept on for 18-24 hours a day. Some

growers think that there is no significant difference in growth rates

between plants growing under 24 hours of light a day (continuous lighting)

and those growing under an 18 hour regimen. In controlled experiments there

was a significant difference: the plants get off to a faster start given

continuous lighting. Some growers cut the light schedule down to conserve

electricity.

Plants grown under continuous light which are moved outdoors occasionally

experience shock. This may be caused by the intense light they receive from

the sun combined with the shortened day length. Another popular lighting

regimen starts with continuous light. A week after germination the light is

cut back one hour so that the regimen consists of 23 hours on and one hour

off. The following week the lights are cut back again, to 22 hours of light

and 2 of darkness. Each week thereafter, the lights are cut back another

hour until the light is on only 12 hours a day.

Whenever a light is to be turned on and off periodically, it is best to use

a timer to regulate it. The timer is never late, always remembers, and never

goes on vacation. [pH:and never goes to jail!] Plants are at their most

vulnerable stage immediately after they germinate. They are susceptible to

stem rot, which is usually a fungal infection and occurs frequently when the

medium is too moist and the roots do not have access to oxygen. On the other

hand, if the medium dries out, the plant may be damaged from dehydration.

Mice, pet birds, dogs and cats have all been noted to have a fondness for

marijuana sprouts and the young plants. [pH:everything must get stoned!]

Seedlings given too little light or too warm an environment stretch their

stems. The long slender shoot subsequently has problems staying upright - it

becomes top-heavy. These plants should be supported using cotton swabs,

toothpicks or thin bamboo stakes.

Most seedlings survive the pitfalls and within a matter of weeks develop

from seedlings into vigorous young plants. During marijuana's early growth,

the plant needs little special care. It will have adjusted to its

environment and grow at the fastest pace the limiting factors allow. If the

plants are in a soilless mix without additives they should be fertilized as

soon as they germinate. Plants grown in large containers with soil or a mix

with nutrients can usually go for several weeks to a month with no

supplements.

Within a few weeks the plants grow quite a bit and gardeners thin the

plants. If possible, this is not done until the plants indicate sex, so that

the grower has a better idea of how many plants to eliminate. The most

vigorous, healthy plants are chosen.

Marijuana Grower's Handbook - part 22 of 33

"Watering"

Growers using passive hydroponic systems only have to water by adding it to

the reservoirs, to replenish water lost to evaporation and transpiration.

Growers using active hydroponic systems, including drop emitters, adjust the

watering cycle so that the medium never loses its moisture. Mediums for

active systems are drained well so that the roots come into contact with

air. Each medium retains a different volume of water. The plant's size and

growth stage, the temperature, and the humidity also affect the amount of

water used. Cycles might start at once every six hours of light during the

early stages and increase as the plants need it. Plants growing in soil or

soiless mixes should be watered before the soil dries out but only after the

top layer has lost a bit of its moisture. If the mixture is not soggt and

drains well, overwatering is not a problem. Excess moisture drains.

Plants have problems with some soils not because they are too wet, but

because the soils have too find a texture and do not hold air in pockets

between the particles. As long as a medium allows both air and water to

penetrate, the roots will remain healthy. If the roots do not have access to

air, they grow weak and are attacked by bacteria. Plant leaves catch dust so

it is a good idea to spray the plants every 2-4 weeks with a fine spray,

letting the water drop off the leaves. Do this before the beginning of the

light cycle so the leaves dry off completely, and the glass of the lights is

not hot in case water touches it. Some growers spray the leaves weekly with

a dilute fertilizer solution. The leaf has pores through which the nutrients

can be absorbed and utilized. They claim that the growth rate is increased.

In various tests with legal plants, researches have affirmed that plants

which are foliar-fed do grow faster.

Once the flowers start forming, the plants should not be sprayed because the

flowers are susceptible to mold and infections which are promoted by excess

humidity.




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