Memoirs from my trip to India
Before our departure to India, Ven. Tenzin Lama & I decided that we should spend 5 days visiting the Sera Monastery in Southern India and 3 weeks in the Northern India. The following is an account of our trip to Northern India. Patna:The driver was negotiating and maneuvering through traffic, people, animals in the middle of the road, broken down vehicles, and children oblivious to the traffic. The trucks have "Horn Please" signs colorfully painted on their back. This is for trailing traffic to signal that they are passing as there are no traffic lights, stop signs, or speed limits. It took more than three hours to arrive at Bodhgaya. (120 km from Patna to Bodhgaya)
Bodhgaya:
Is a town of temples and monasteries from all the major Buddhist areas of the
world. Bodhgaya is my most favorite place.
We arrived at the Hotel in Bodhgaya about 8:30 p.m. The hotel was clean and new with a number of visitors (mosquitoes). After checking in, we walked out onto the street, looking for a restaurant that was still open after 9 p.m. We came across a very small restaurant outside the Tibetan refugee camp. Momo and Tibetan noodles were our first meal at Bodhgaya. It was so delicious after our long trip.
After dinner we tried to find a meditation board for our retreat, but since it was
already quite late, most of the temples and monasteries were closed. So we walked to a few
more monasteries to ask for meditation boards. They all told us that there weren't any
available and that we should try the other monasteries the next day.
The next morning, we had a great breakfast at Cafe Om, a very famous restaurant at the
Tibetan refugee camp. After breakfast, we continued our search for our meditation boards
but got the answer, "there are 500 Tibetan monks joining the oral transmission event
in Bodhgaya, try to share with others".
We proceeded to walk to the famous Mahabodhi Temple which is a pilgrimage destination for
Buddhists from all over the world. It is also the place for our retreat. Around the temple
is a marble walkway and behind the temple stands the famous "Bodhi Tree", where
Buddha attained enlightenment under this tree 2500 years ago. Though the original tree
died long ago, it has been replaced several times. The temple is surrounded with all kinds
of structures and stupas and few smaller temples.
A number of monks sat on the ground chanting mantras and Sadhanan, hundreds of Tibetan
monks prostrated in prayer in Tibetan style, and few South East Asian monks sat in a
silent meditation. Many lay people also prostrated in Tibetan style prayer, including
myself. There was a group of monks who were very kind and loaned me their meditation board
when they were finished with their prostration. Whenever I had a negative thoughts or felt
weary, I would walk into the hall and bowed deeply 3 times and walked around the main
stupas a couple of times and continued my prostration.
I wanted to also mention that I met an old yogi by the name of Ven. L.L. Sopa when in
Bodhgaya. He has spent a good part of his life living in the Himalayan mountains and had
come to join the oral transmission event. It was an amazing experience to witness the
simplicity and happiness apparent in this old yogi that it is difficult to express in
words. In the temple, he chose the simplest place to sleep; a piece of board in one of the
hallways of the temple. He only owns 2 robes which he alternates. Ven. Tenzin Lama and I
invited him for dinner in an Indian restaurant and he told us that it was his first time
he had been in a restaurant; he's 67 years old. What a remarkable person he is.
I encountered many visitors from Taiwan and other countries very interested about the
prostration and Tibetan Buddhism. Due to their short visit, some of the Taiwanese gave me
money to offer the Tibetan monks in rejoicing with their effort. During the break, Ven.
Tenzin Lama helped me exchange the dollars to rupees. We walked around the temple early
the next morning and offered 50 rupees to each monk. I rejoiced and thanked the Taiwanese
Buddhists.
Outside the Mahabodhi Temple, there were many noisy vehicles, music, pushy postcards,
street vendors and beggars etc., to remind me that suffering was just a few steps away
from heaven.
In Bodhgaya, I had lunch & dinner at the "Paljor" restaurant. I had
delicious Momo and Tibetan noodles with friendly a-ma-la, pala (mother &father in
Tibetan) and their beautiful daughter making me feel like part of their family. If you are
ever there, don't miss the "Cafe OM" restaurant, the best breakfast you can find
in Bodhgaya and hospitality second to none.
Sarnah:
On the outskirts of Varanasi is Sarnath, Deer Park, where Buddha gave his
first sermon on the Four Noble Truths and the Noble Eightfold Path to enlightenment.
What a beautiful park. There weren't very many people around, blue skies, fresh
air, and it was very quiet and peaceful. We prostrated in front of the main Stupa and
silent meditation for a while. It was a pleasant surprise to meet Geshe Sopa and his
students at Deer Park. I missed Geshe Sopa's teaching where I live San Jose, California in
early 2000. It was a pleasure to meet Geshe-la at the one of the famous holy place in
India a few months later. Ven. Tenzin Lama offered Katha to Geshe Sopa. To see Geshe-la's
smiling face deeply touched my heart and I wish I can see him again.
On the way back, we also stopped by the Kanga River, we took a few pictures and had
wonderful conversations with friendly Indians. We also met 2 tourists from New York. They
both were very excited to see someone from the United States.
Nalanda:
Though Buddha visited Nalanda several times during his lifetime. This famous center of Buddhist learning shot to fame much later.
Ven. Tenzin Lama invited 7 Sera Je monks to join our trip to Nalanda. When we arrived in Nalanda, it was about lunch time. We had a picnic at the Nalanda park in the perfect weather with friendly stray dogs. The food of course was delicious. Tenzin-la escorted us visiting the sites of Nalanda and also lead us in chanting Chapter 10 "Dedications" of "A Guide To The Bodhisattva's Way Of Life" at one small peaceful stupa with fresh air. I wish time would stand still at that moment, allowing me to enjoy the peaceful and serene moment forever.
Vulture Peak Mountain:
After Buddha's enlightenment, Sakymuni Buddha frequently visited Mount
Gridhrakrta near Rajagrha, where he gathered an assembly of disciples and propagated his
teachings. This mountain is called the Vulture Peak because of the shape of its peak. Each
time when the Buddha was there, his disciples of monks and arhats, Bodhisattvas of foreign
lands, and other sentient beings would gather at the same locale and listen attentively to
the Buddha's teachings of the Dharma. Hence the Assembly at Vulture Peak.
On Christmas day, we visited Vulture Peak Mountain with 7 Sera Jey monks.� We were on
the bumpy road for 3 hours.
When we first got on the cable car, it was quite scary, unlike any American cable car I
have been on. It's like a ski lift where you have to jump to get on. We took pictures on
the way to the peak. The view was beautiful (only if you don't look down). We performed
prostrates in front of the beautiful white stupa at the peak. There were few Indian
families that wanted to take pictures with us; what a different culture. We also joined
Lama Chopa/Tsog with Khen Rinpoche of Ganden Monastery at the place where Buddha gave Hart
Suture.
Bye Bye India:
It was a very memorable 20-day trip. I was very
touched by the suffering of humanity I witnessed and vast differences in the quality of
life compared to my home in the United States. I would dearly love to go there and be with
the people and temples again. I would like to extend my heartfelt thanks to Ven. Tenzin
Lama for his constant companionship and guidance.
We both flew back to New Delhi. Ven. Tenzin Lama took care of the formalities of luggage
check-in, etc. for my transit to Bangkok to meet my husband and daughter who have been
vacationing in Bangkok for a week.