Prooch-Proofing
You’re
a responsible dog owner. You feed quality food, arrange
for regular veterinary care, provide lots of exercise, and
schedule frequent trips to the groomer. You love your dog
and have given him a “good home.” But is it
a safe one? Nearly 70% of all US households have two wage
earners, and their average “latchkey” canine
spends from 20 to 60 hours alone weekly. Hence,
pet-proofing the home environment for canine safety has
become of paramount importance. Numerous household hazards
lurk in almost every setting, and often where most of us
least suspect. A purse, the glass patio door, or a candy
dish all seem harmless enough, yet each can mete out death
to your pet. Canines can become anxious or bored when left
alone, and these states of mind practically guarantee a
crisis. Start in the kitchen, and don’t store bleach,
detergents, chemicals, etc., under the kitchen sink. Poisonous
substances kept in low places are an open invitation to
self-destruction, as any self-respecting canine can access
the most secure latched cabinet. I’ll bet you didn’t
know that all the following are poisonous to your pet: chocolate,
aspirin, antifreeze, pills of any kind, cigarettes, cigars,
and some paint. Electric cords present the next challenge.
And close behind
them, the playfully dangling tendrils of your favorite plant,
some are deadlier than others.
Toxic
Plant List:
Aloe
Vera, Anemone, Angel Trumpet Tree, Apricot Kernals, Arrowhead,
Avocado Leaves, Azaleas, Betel Nut Palm, Bittersweet, Buckeye,
Buttercups, Caladium, Calla Lily, Castor Beans, Cattail,
Cherries (all parts), Christmas Rose, Chrysanthemum, Crocus
Autumn, Daffodil, Daphne, Delphinium, Devil's Ivy, Dieffenbachia,
Dutchman's Breeches, Elderberry, Elephant
Ear, English Ivy, Four o'Clock, foxglove, Holly Berries,
Horsetail Reeds, Hyacinth, Hydrangea, Iris, Ivy (Boston
English), Jack in the Pulpit, Jequirity Bean & Pea,
Jerusalem Cherry, Jessamine(Jasmine), Jonquil, Lantana Camara(Sage),
Larkspur, Laurels, Lily of the Valkley, Lobelia, Marijuana,
May Apple, Milkweed, Mistletoe, Morning Glory, Mother-in-Law
Plant, Mushrooms, Narcissus, Nightshade, Oleander, Orchid,
Ornamental Pepper, Periwinkle, Peyote, Philodendron, Poison
Hemlock, Poison Ivy & Oak, Pokeweed, Primrose, Ranunculus,
Rhubarb Leaves, Sweet Pea, Tobacco, Tomato Vines, Tulips,
Wisteria.
The
Life Stages Of A Dog
Right after a puppy is born, he can't
walk, hear or see; however, his sense of smell is already
fully developed. He instinctively finds his mother's teats
and will firmly suck on them. In the first
three weeks, his mother's milk will provide him with all
the nutrition he needs.
First Three
Weeks:
Beginning
in the third week, a puppy's senses begin to
awaken. His eyes and auditory canals open so he can communicate
with his brothers and sisters for the first time.
At around the 21st day he'll make
his first attempts at walking and barking. Within the safety
of his family circle, he'll have his first
experiences and get to know the complex social
behavior of his species.
By the fourth week, the senses of the puppy are fully developed
so that he is able to carefully observe his environment.
He will examine and sniff everything. At this stage of life,
his ability
to learn is as great as it will ever be. So this is the
stage where
you should spend a lot of time with your puppy to help him
grow up to be a sociable dog. However, an intense relationship
with his brothers and sisters is just as important. He can
begin to
eat solid food
from the fourth week on.
Between 8 and 12 weeks, the puppy is in the socialization
stage, and can move to a "human pack". The best
time for the separation from mother and brothers and sisters
is at 10 weeks of age.
First Months:
If you adopt a puppy at about the
10th week, take him to the vet immediately. He/she will
check his health status and will advise you on the right
timing for vaccinations and worming.
Your puppy now needs a lot of loving attention to be able
to cope with the new environment and the loss of his brothers
and sisters. You should praise him often and say his name
at the same time. Also, you should set his boundaries with
a stern "no" and begin with house training.
The puppy's development until the 16th week is called the
"phase of hierarchy" by dog researchers. Now your
dog will need a "leader of the pack". This is
also true for his diet. It is your decision what and when
your dog is fed and what he is not to eat. So make sure
your puppy's special requirements for nutrients are met
in this phase of quick growth. Give him a variety of experiences
such as riding in a car, riding in a bus or on an elevator,
visits to restaurants, gatherings of people, and contact
with children, other dogs, and other animals. This way he'll
be an agreeable, strong-minded companion as an adult dog.
Puberty:
The
phase of puberty is usually rather short and will last from
between one month and six weeks. It starts around the sixth
month, and can manifest itself in many different ways: often
your dog will behave badly and won't want to learn anything
new. Sometimes
he may forget what he has learned so far, or at least pretend
to. In this phase, you should be persistent and keep on
with his education program.
The Adult
Dog:
A male has finished puberty when
he starts to lift his leg to urinate. A female will be out
of puberty when she goes into heat for the
first time; this may happen between the seventh and eighth
month, but may take up to one year.
You should not have your bitch mated or bred when she is
in heat for the first time because her organs are not yet
fully developed. After her first heat, her diet should be
changed to that of an adult bitch.
The Senior Dog:
Different breeds of dog are considered
senior at different ages. It may also depend on the individual
dog. The process of aging will begin slowly and nearly imperceptibly.
Your dog will become less active, his metabolism will slow
down, and he might put on weight. At this time, it's important
to change his diet and give him smaller portions two to
three times daily. This will relieve his digestive
system and ensure an even intake of nutrients. Your dog
might need a special diet, which you can get from your veterinarian.
In general, the first signs of old age will appear between
the eighth and tenth year. The head and muzzle might become
grey, and he may experience a deterioration of sight and
hearing. His sense of smell is normally not affected too
much by aging.
Your senior dog will still love to play – even if
his fitness level has declined somewhat. And if he has some
little house training "accidents," he'll be quite
embarrassed. So it's best not to scold him.
Dog
House
Choosing the right
cage for your dog should involve a number of considerations:
* Depending on the gender and the
possibility of mixed ancestry, and variations within a breed,
your dog may need a home that is larger or smaller than
listed.
* The dog breeds listed will help you choose the proper
size home for your adult dog.
* Please consult your breeder for additional guidance.
* Due to space limitation, not all breeds could be listed.
Select breed most similar in size to yours.
Preparing:
Once you have selected a dog that
will fit in your lifestyle, budget and home (for advice,
see the breed selector), there are some basic considerations
that you will need to address. Many of these are merely
questions of preference that you will want to have answered
before bringing your dog home, but others are important
safety issues that you will want to resolve in anticipation
of your dog's arrival.
Raising
an incredible puppy takes planning. There are some things
your puppy needs, some things you may want for your puppy,
and some things you may want to make raising a puppy easier
for you. Spend time looking through all the products available
for you and your puppy and decide which ones fit your lifestyle
and budget.
Setting Up
Your Home:
Once you know that there is a dog
coming into your family, you will have some decisions to
make. Where will the dog sleep? Where will it eat? What
areas will the dog be allowed to enter? These decisions
will affect the purchases you have to make as you
ready your home for its newest member. For example, you
may want to consider making the following purchases:
· Fence - either physical
or invisible (a buried wire that gives your dog a mild shock
when it attempts to leave the yard)
· Outside kennel
· Dog house
· Doggie door
· Gates - to block off certain
rooms or staircases indoors, similar to those used for children
· Cleaning supplies - your
puppy may have some accidents at first
· A supply of quality puppy
food
· Chew toys
· Dog tags
You
will also need to purchase certain supplies for your dog.
The following is a possible list for consideration:
· Collar
· Leash - either one of adjustable
length or two of different lengths, long and short.
· Food and water bowls - plastic
is OK, but stainless steel or ceramic is better
· Grooming supplies - including
brush, nail clippers, shampoo
· Dog bed or blanket
· Anti-chew spray
As an alternative to a dog bed or
open sleeping area, I recommend the purchase of a crate.
Crates are enclosed kennels with a latching door. It should
be just large enough for the dog to stand and turn around,
so if your dog is a puppy and is going to grow,
you might want to either buy crates of different size or
buy a large crate and block part of it off with cardboard.
Crates are a good place to keep your
dog when you can't be around. Some people worry that a dog
will be uncomfortable in a crate, but in fact dogs like
enclosed spaces. They are den animals and feel secure under
a low roof. As long as you let your dog out
to get plenty of exercise during the day, it is perfectly
alright to have your dog sleep or spend parts of the day
in a crate.
Finally, you will want to prepare
your family and house. Move breakable things out of reach.
Lay out some chew toys so you will always be ready to distract
your dog from inappropriate behavior. Spray some "anti-chew"
liquids on wires and other vulnerable items; these taste
awful but cause no harm.
In the last few days before arrival,
give your house a good cleaning and remove breakable items
from areas where your puppy will be. Also, spend some time
preparing yourself or your family. Small children need to
know how to act around a small puppy.
Welcoming
Your Newcomer:
You've thought about it and you've
chosen the puppy or kitten you believe will best fit your
lifestyle. Now the anticipation builds as you look forward
to bringing your newcomer home. Helping it adapt to its
new home will be easier if you plan ahead. If you have all
the pet's basic needs in place you can focus on introducing
your adoptee to its new surroundings and begin its training.
Do your shopping in advance. If
your choice is a puppy, you'll need a collar and leash,
a crate (a great aid in housebreaking), brush or hand mitt
for grooming, toys that will be safe for the puppy, a bed
for the puppy, non-tippable, easy-to-clean food and water
bowls.
If
the puppy is to be housed outdoors, choose a well-insulated
doghouse large enough to accommodate the puppy at its full-grown
size. It should be located on a high, well-drained site
protected from the wind. Choose a location that provides
outdoor shade during the summer.
A kitten also needs its own bed,
food and water dishes, grooming equipment and toys designed
for kittens. Other essentials are a scratching post, litter
box, litter material and a scoop to remove droppings. Kittens
eight weeks or younger may be too small to use an adult-size
litter box. An aluminum or plastic pan with a 2-inch rim
can be used until the kitten can negotiate a larger box.
Place the pan where you plan to locate the litter box —
preferably in a quiet, private place.
You'll want the proper diet on hand
to meet the special nutritional needs of your rapidly growing
newcomer. Please remember: kittens have unique nutritional
needs and should never be fed a puppy or dog food.
Select
a veterinarian for your new pet as soon as possible. Ask
pet-owning friends and neighbors for recommendations. The
Yellow Pages is another source. Visiting veterinary clinics
in your area may help in your selection. Choosing a veterinarian
who is located nearby is a convenience and saves time if
an emergency should occur.
Puppy-proof and kitten-proof your
home. Put household cleaners and detergents and other chemical
compounds in tightly closed containers and be certain they
are properly stored. Medicines should be kept out of reach.
A good rule to follow is that anything that is not safe
for children is not safe for pets.
The best time to bring your newcomer
home is at the beginning of a weekend. If possible, add
a few vacation days. This gives you time to acquaint your
puppy or kitten with its new home and to begin housebreaking
and other training.
Make arrangements with the person
from whom you are getting the puppy or kitten as to the
time you will pick it up. Ask that it not be fed prior to
pick-up time. This helps avoid the puppy's or kitten's becoming
car sick on its way to its new home.
Once in its new home, remember that
your adoptee is adjusting to strange new surroundings and
people. Children can become especially excited. Explain
to them that their new companion needs time out for naps.
Show children how to pet the newcomer and the proper way
to pick up the kitten or puppy. A puppy should be closely
supervised and taken outside to relieve itself after eating,
following naps and play periods.
Bring any immunization information
you may have received when you adopted your pet to your
veterinarian to begin a case history for future reference.
It's a good idea to keep your own medical record. You may
need it for reference if your pet's veterinarian
is not available. Choose a name for your newcomer and use
only that name in calling the pet. In teaching a pet its
name, as in all training matters, 100 percent cooperation
of all family members is essential. When a pet is sent mixed
signals, it can
become confused and not respond to any of the contradictory
signals. Behavioral problems may be in the making. Key words
to remember as you welcome your newcomer: Gentleness. Care.
Patience. Consistency. Praise. Love. Your reward is a delightful
companion for years to come. A final thoughtAvoid bringing
home a new pet during busy times such as birthdays and holidays.
The noise and confusion may frighten the pet. Family members
are generally too busy with the festivities to devote adequate
time to help the puppy or kitten become comfortable in its
new home.
Sample Of A Dog
House:
This unique pet home has a room with
a view. Designed for indoor or outdoor use, pets will like
the rooftop observation deck so they can keep an eye on
all the activities. The floor is raised to keep them dry.
Easy to clean and to assemble, this wooden pet palace is
constructed of Asian Fir and measures 21" L x 29"
W x 25" H. The door opening is 9" x 11" and
is perfect for any small to midsize dog up to 25 pounds.
Collar
& Leash
When buying a collar
for your puppy, choose one made of nylon
or soft leather. Collars that "grow" with your
puppy are also suitable.
If your puppy is
not used to a collar yet, he should start wearing it in
the house for a few days. At first he may scratch himself
a lot or may
even try to get rid of the collar. It will not take long,
however, for him to get used to it. There is no need for
your puppy to wear the collar in the house permanently,
but he should not leave the house without it.
After about a week,
your puppy should have gotten used to the collar and the
leash, and you can start out on your first walk together.
Of course, everything is new for your puppy. He wants to
sniff at everything, he may stop abruptly, and you may have
to be careful not to step on him. On your first walks together,
you may have to talk to him to calm him down so he won't
rebel against wearing a collar and a leash. At this point
in time, it's too early to train your puppy.
You may be tempted
to let your puppy get away with everything; after all, he's
just getting to know his new environment. Remember,
though, that you need to be consistent: you, and not your
dog, should be the one to decide where you are going. Of
course, your puppy is allowed to sniff around, but when
you call him and pull on the leash gently, he should follow
you without protest.
It will take your
puppy about one or two days to get used to the leash. After
that, you can teach him the meaning of the command "Heel!"
It will take some weeks or even months, though, until he
obeys you perfectly. If you keep at it right from the start,
however, this will save you a lot of trouble later on. Even
if your dog is not very big, walking him will be a lot more
enjoyable if he doesn't keep pulling on the leash.
Obedience classes
can be a big help for a dog to learn how to "heel,"
because they give you and your dog the chance to get proper
instructions and to work together with other dog owners.
Household
Dangers
Many
things we use every day can harm puppies. This article tells
you what to watch out for.
Things you may consider harmless
household items can be deadly to your puppy. Make sure these
items are kept out of reach. Clean up promptly if the following
items are spilled:
· Garden supplies such as
insecticides and fertilizers. (In fact, it's best not to
use these items at all if you have a pet.)
· Plants. Many are toxic
in live or dried form. Ask your nursery for information
on the plants you want to purchase. When in doubt, keep
the plants well out of your dog's reach.
· Pennies. Some pennies contain
zinc, which can cause vomiting, anemia, or even death if
ingested by a pet.
· Chocolate. As little as
one ounce of unsweetened baking chocolate can be deadly
to a small dog. Milk chocolate is not as toxic, but if dogs
eat large quantities, they may develop digestive problems.
· Antifreeze has a sweet
taste to dogs, so they may lick it off the floor of the
garage or driveway. Yet as little as one teaspoon can cause
irreversible kidney damage, and can be fatal to a small
dog. Clean up spills quickly and thoroughly.
·
Stay-alert formulas can cause convulsions in dogs.
Ibuprofen can cause kidney damage or gastric ulcers in
dogs.
Chocolate
Valentine's Day is here, and to many
people, that means chocolate. Chocolate is a widely recognized
token of affection on this day, however it's important to
realize that much as we may enjoy chocolate, and much as
your dog may show interest in it, under
no circumstances should you ever feed him chocolate.
Most dogs love
the smell of chocolate — maybe even more than they
like your favorite slippers. Unfortunately, the active ingredient
in chocolate, theobromine, can stimulate your dog's nervous
system and may be toxic for him.
Enjoy your chocolate gifts this Valentine's Day but keep
the day festive by making sure that all chocolate is stored
safely out of your dog's reach.
What Are The Effects Of Eating Chocolate:
The effects of eating chocolate are
different for each dog. A lot depends on your dog's size
and the type and amount of chocolate he ingests. Although
there is less theobromine in some chocolate — for
example, milk chocolate — this does not make it a
safe treat for your dog. It's important to remember that
all chocolate is bad for him.
Signs that your dog is suffering severe poisoning from chocolate
include muscle twitching, increased urination, increased
panting and restlessness.
Due to the high fat content in chocolate, some dogs may
also suffer vomiting and diarrhea.
The following chart provides an estimate on how much chocolate
can make a dog ill. Please remember that each dog is unique.
To keep your dog healthy it's best to remember that all
chocolate is bad for him. Always make sure that chocolate
is kept in a safe place, out of your dog's reach. This also
goes for anything that contains chocolate — cookies,
chocolate bars, baking supplies and candies.
Type
Of Chocolate |
Mild
Poisoning Occurs At: |
Severe
Poisoning Appears At: |
White Chocolate |
45 oz. per
pound of body weight |
90 oz. per
pound of body weight |
Milk Chocolate |
0.7 oz. |
2 oz. |
Semi-Sweet
Chocolate |
1/3 oz. |
1 oz. |
Instant
Cocoa |
1/3 oz. |
1 oz. |
Baking Chocolate |
0.1 oz. |
0.3 oz. |
Chocolate wrappers present another
hazard to your dog. Due to the smell of chocolate, which
most dogs love, they may be interested in the empty wrapper,
and may even try to swallow it. This can be dangerous for
your dog as he could choke on the wrapper.
Remember to dispose of wrappers in a place where your dog
cannot get at them.
Your dog may not show symptoms of
chocolate poisoning right away. However, if he does, his
symptoms may include muscle twitching, increased urination,
increased panting and restlessness, vomiting and diarrhea.
Treatment:
If you suspect your dog has swallowed
chocolate call your veterinarian or emergency clinic immediately,
even if he's not showing any symptoms yet — the effects
of chocolate poisoning may not be visible right away. Within
24 - 48 hours of treatment most dogs treated for chocolate
poisoning return to normal. In order to treat your dog effectively
it helps to have the following information
available when you call:
· Your dog's size
· How much and what type of chocolate your dog has
eaten
· When it was eaten
Enjoy the chocolate you receive
for Valentine's Day and keep the day festive by making sure
that all chocolate is safely out of your dog's reach. Keeping
your dog healthy is one of the best ways you can communicate
your own Valentine's Day message to him — that because
you care for him you will watch out for him and keep him
away from anything that presents a danger to his health
— and this includes chocolate.
If you suspect your dog has eaten
chocolate call your vet or emergency clinic immediately.
In order to treat your dog you will be asked:
· How much chocolate do you
suspect your dog has eaten, and when?
· What type of chocolate?
· What size is your dog – small, medium or
large?
You may be advised to bring your
dog in right away, or you may be given instructions to induce
vomiting in your dog.
Are All Chocolates
Dangerous To My Dog?
The effect chocolate may have on
your dog depends on his size, and how much and what kind
of chocolate he ate. Baking chocolate contains a lot of
theobromine, and is therefore very dangerous to your dog.
Your dog could experience mild poisoning after
eating only 0.1 ounces per pound of his body weight, or
severe poisoning after eating 0.3 ounces per pound of body
weight. Although there is less theobromine in some chocolate
– for example, milk chocolate – this does not
make it a safe treat for your dog. Mild poisoning may occur
with 0.7 ounces of milk chocolate per pound of body weight,
or severe poisoning at 2 ounces per pound of body weight.
It’s important to remember that all chocolate is bad
for your dog. This also goes for anything that contains
chocolate – cookies, chocolate bars, baking supplies
and candies.
The Good News:
Within 24 – 48 hours of treatment,
most dogs treated for chocolate poisoning return to normal.
Keep Valentine’s Day happy
by safely storing chocolate in high cupboards, out of your
dog’s reach. If you want to give your dog a special
treat on this day, spend some extra time playing with him,
grooming him, or giving him an approved dog treat.
Minimizing The Risk
Of Dog Bites
There are ways to prevent children
from being bitten by dogs. This article gives advice on
training children, adults and dogs to approach each other
and communicate effectively.
We tend to forget that dogs do not
communicate in the same way as humans. For example, humans
make eye contact when communicating
and make contact through an open handshake. Both of these
behaviors may be seen as a threat to dogs.
Training
is the key to preventing dog bites. By that we mean that
dogs, children and adults need to be trained in how to approach
and communicate effectively.
Sleeping Dogs:
Teach children not to approach a
sleeping dog.
When awoken from a deep sleep, humans
have been known to behave defensively, that is to strike
out. Dogs when woken in fright may behave in much the same
way. Dogs should not be disturbed when sleeping. If you
need to wake the dog up, call them from a distance to allow
them time to become oriented.
Provide the dog with a bed that is
separated from noisy high activity areas. This will minimize
the risk of unintentionally waking the dog in fright.
Feeding Dogs:
Children should be taught not to
approach a dog that's eating or gnawing on a bone. Dogs
may become protective of their food or bones.
Dogs can be conditioned to accept
interference with their food from the time they enter the
house as a puppy. This requires the owner to teach the dog
not to react if its food is removed while eating. Start
by putting a small amount of food in the bowl, then moving
your hand to the box to add more food. In this way, the
presence of a hand becomes rewarding. If the puppy is happy
and does not show signs of aggression, take the food away.
Reward the puppy with a pat. After the puppy has sat and
been given a reward, the food is returned and the puppy
resumes eating. This training should continue throughout
the dog's life, especially if there is a possibility of
children entering the property.
When
Approaching A Dog:
Children should be taught to leave
strange dogs alone and to report stray dogs to an adult
who may be able to deal with the dog appropriately.
Many behaviors humans show towards
each other can be perceived as a threat to dogs. If a dog
is in the company of its owner, it is essential to ask the
owner's permission to approach the dog. The owner of the
dog must initiate the introduction of a new person to the
dog. The dog should be approached on an angle, not from
the front or rear. Once closer to the dog, slowly extend
the back of the hand and allow the dog to sniff the hand
before tickling under the chin or the side of the chest.
Dogs should not be patted on the top of the head or the
shoulders. An open palm facing the dog may be seen as a
threat by the dog and may cause
the dog to act defensively. If the dog doesn't sniff or
backs away, do not attempt to pat it.
Young children can be rough and unrelenting.
They may be unaware that their behavior is annoying for
the dog. Their high-pitched squeals and uncoordinated attempts
at showing affection can disturb the dog, causing it to
act defensively or trigger a chasing response. Discourage
rough, inappropriate play, as this may over excite the dog.
Supervising Children
Around Dogs:
Young children should never approach
a dog without the permission of the owner. Adults should
initially control the child's movements when they are learning
to interact with dogs. One good way to start is by holding
and guiding a young child's hand to pat the dog gently.
Young children need constant supervision when in contact
with dogs.
Establishing eye contact with a dog
can send a strong message of domination which can be perceived
as a threat to the dog.
When Approached
By A Strange Dog:
Children
are easily excited. A common reaction in their excitement
is to run and squeal. This behavior can frighten a dog who
may only be curious, or want to join in the fun. Never approach
a strange dog without the permission of the dog owner. It
is useful to teach children to stand straight and still
("like a tree trunk!") and not raise their hands
above their heads.
Important Dog Behavior
To Recognize:
As with other animals, dogs have
a special way of communicating with each other and humans.
Most people recognize the wagging tail as a sign of a happy
dog, but fewer people really know or understand other signs
of dog body language. A dog's body language gives us clues
about how a dog may be feeling.
A
dog should be left alone if it:
Lifts its lips
Growls
Backs off
Raises the hair on its back
Choosing
A Veterinarian
Just got a dog and
don't know how to find a good vet? Here are some tips on
finding the right doctor for your furry friend.
Choosing the right veterinarian is
one of the most important things you can do to help ensure
your dog lives a long and healthy life. A veterinarian should
be technically proficient, knowledgeable about the latest
trends and treatments, and willing to go the extra mile
for your pet. Be sure your veterinarian explains things
in ways you can understand, and can answer your questions
so you can make responsible decisions for your dog.
Here are some tips on finding
a vet:
How To Find
A Vet:
Trust is perhaps the most important
consideration when choosing a veterinarian. After all, your
dog can’t tell you how he feels about the treatment,
and you can't always monitor what goes on in the vet's office
after you go.
Ask a friend, neighbor or co-worker
for a recommendation. Other animal lovers will lead you
to a veterinarian who’s knowledgeable, compassionate
and hard working.
Questions To Ask
When Evaluating A Vet:
· Is the animal hospital a
good match for your pet? For example, don't take your dog
to a small animal vet who specializes in birds
or reptiles.
· Is the clinic or hospital conveniently located?
Will the office hours coincide with your schedule? Look
for a clinic with evening or Saturday hours. Some large
practices operate 24 hours a day.
· Are the staff members knowledgeable and helpful?
Be sure the clinic's animal health care technicians can
recognize and respond to an urgent situation when necessary.
Look for a practice that values its staff by training them
properly and supporting them with state-of-the-art equipment.
· Will the veterinarian refer you to a specialist
if your pet's condition requires it? Today, animal specialties
include anesthesiology, behavior,
cardiology, dentistry, dermatology, emergency and critical
care, internal medicine, neurology, oncology, ophthalmology,
radiology, and surgery. Each of these specialties requires
more certification beyond the standard degree in veterinary
medicine.
Above all, develop a good rapport
with your dog's doctor. Make sure you feel comfortable asking
questions and discussing fees. It really comes down to the
relationship between you and the veterinarian.
Searching
A Vet: The Checklist:
It could be that you've just adopted
an adult dog and need to find a veterinarian. Or perhaps
you've moved to a new city, town or neighborhood. Or maybe
you're simply not satisfied with your current vet. Whatever
the case may be, here's a checklist of what you should do
in order to find a new veterinarian.
Step One: Determine Your
Needs
Before you actually start looking for a veterinarian, take
some time to think about the needs of your dog as well as
your own needs. For instance, do you have a schedule that's
fairly flexible that would allow you to go to an appointment
in the middle of the
day? Or would it be more convenient for you to have a vet
that makes housecalls? Are you prepared to drive across
town to the best vet or would you prefer someone with an
office close by? These are just some of the things you should
think about before you begin your search.
Step Two: Research
The phone book might seem a bit obvious, but it is a very
good resource of information about your community. Just
remember that fancy phone book ads don't guarantee a positive
working relationship with your vet!
Here are some other helpful resources:
· Contact your local Humane
Society or animal shelter and ask if they can provide you
with a list of veterinarians in your area.
· Talk to other dog owners in your neighborhood about
their veterinarian. Word of mouth is often the most reliable
source since you get the information from an end user's
perspective. They'll be the ones to tell you if a vet's
people skills are as good as their animal skills.
Step Three: Start Asking
Questions
· What are the office hours?
Is the vet available on Saturdays or open after 5 p.m. at
least one day a week?
· How easy is it to get an appointment? Do you need
to book far in advance?
· How many veterinarians are in the practice? If
there are more than one, can you request a specific vet?
· Does the vet (or vets) have any areas of specialty?
For example, geriatrics or behavior?
· What services are provided? For example, are there
after-hour emergency services? Does the vet make housecalls?
Do they offer boarding services?
· Are
services like x-rays, bloodwork or other diagnostics done
on-site or is a specialist required?
· What associations is the vet affiliated with? For
example, a membership with the American Animal Hospital
Association (AAHA) signifies that the veterinarian has passed
certain standards in the areas of facility, equipment, and
quality care.
· What forms of payment are accepted?
· Is it easy to find parking? Is there a cost for
it?
Step Four: Pay A Visit
Once you've narrowed your search down, visit the veterinarian
office in person. Take a good look around and make note
of the following:
· Is the facility clean and comfortable?
· Do they offer additional products like specialty
dog food, grooming items, toys, etc.? (These may not be
necessities, but it's good to know they're available.)
· Is the staff friendly and helpful? Do they seem
knowledgeable? Do you feel comfortable talking to them?
You may think this seems like a
lot to go through to find a veterinarian, but you're really
doing much more than looking for a medical expert. You're
looking for someone who will care for the needs of your
dog so you can look forward to a longer life together.
