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| TRAVELS WITH MY DINOSAUR 05 June - 05 August 2003 |
| Saturday 14th June. Mama Lil has been waiting all week to cook for me. She told me of her plans the night of my arrival, when she phoned to say hello, and to welcome me to the Bahamas. She is famous in Nassau for her culinary expertise. Peter Graham, Bay Street Boy and her long-time employer, insisted on her catering for his gatherings and dinner parties, as much for his own daily meals. I am not a big breakfast fiend. Usually fruit, or a bowl of cereal are sufficient to kick-start my day. After the hearty dishes I have already been served this week, I was a little concerned that I might not be able to eat a full traditional Bahamian breakfast, in spite of my stomach�s expectant rumbling. Entirely justifiable is the esteem in which Mama Lil�s cooking is held. Her Johnny Cake is exquisite, and the main grits and beef dish demanded the respect of a second serving, regardless of the early hour. As Natasha and I ate, Mama Lil bubbled enthusiastically with her plans for lunch the following day - a traditionally lavish Bahamian Sunday meal which would be shared by all of us, including Natasha�s father, who has just returned from Long Island. We left armed with a shopping list for the makings of tomorrow�s banquet, and headed into town to explore the Visitors Centre. This is developing as a central showcase of Bahamian hand work and souvenirs, following the devastating 2001 fire which reduced Nassau�s historic Straw Market to cinders. Although a more sterile atmosphere, the bartering still continues, but rules prohibit vendors from calling out to passers by. The centre may be too new to have developed its own unique character, but the atmosphere was warm enough. Each stall had been set up in small pastel painted cabin-like units, which resembled peaceful beach cottages. Natasha knew the owner of the first stall we approached on passing through the entrance. He is the uncle of her friend, a minister of the church and leader of the Sunday school to whom I will be giving the copy of Lion Publishing�s Illustrated Children�s Bible which I used to make a recording for Kids Need Prayer. Faith�s uncle is a diligent craftsman. I surveyed his vast collection of immaculate shells and other sea treasures, as he explained the process of steam cleaning conch shells. He lacquers star fish to create decorative gifts, and his handwork produces some delightfully carved individual pieces cut from larger shells and refined to produce the smoothest of edges. I bought a conch shell and large starfish which Natasha has arranged for Andria to bring with her to England in September. A swift roadside daiquiri later, we arrived at the home of Deanne, one of Natasha�s good friends. We had invited her to join us at the beach, but she was sleepy and decided to stay at home. Much of the New Providence coastline is privately owned by upscale condominiums, hotels and wealthy individuals, hidden behind high walls and commercial developments. However, some delightful spots remain accessible to all. Orange Hill Beach is almost flawless. Powder white sands slip almost indefinably into warm aquamarine wasters which wash and swash in ceaseless gurgling delight onto the beach. We soaked up the late afternoon sunshine and swam in the shallow waters for a blissful eternity, reminiscing about Oxford, discussing the world and just enjoying the surroundings. As the evening drew closer and the air cooled, we played sole witness to the unfolding magic of a picture postcard sunset. Pale gold, rose and lilac glowed across the wetern skies, merging seamlessly with an infinite cornflower blue and sparkling aqua below. I would have happily sat till the end of time, watching the making of night on that deserted spot, a moment in time that will be remembered long into the future. On the way home, we shopped for Mama Lil at a local supermarket. Food is expensive in the Bahamas. Almost everything has to be imported from the USA and other trading partners around the world. Some islands even require the importation of their water supply - for them it truly is a case of water, water everywhere and not a drop to drink. I noted familiar brands such as Heinz, Uncle Ben�s and Goodfellas, and plenty more I had never encountered before. Shopping for food in a new country can be an engaging experience! At home, Andria regailed us with the stories of Prom Night, of students who arrived with their miniature pet dogs (real dogs - apparently the latest must_do trend). Outfits included purple tuxedos and wedding dress style ball gowns, which lost their elegance when tucked up for dancing to the latest chart sounds. I wonder what Prom would be like in theu UK if it ever took off on such a grand scale as across the pond. With that thoughti in mind, I made my way to bed. Just another day in paradise. |