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Monarch of the Mountains
Their domain unchallenged for centuries, the elk (or wapiti, as named by
the Shawnee Indians) wintered on the hills and meadowlands that included
what is now the "Hardware Ranch" in northern Utah. Here they browsed on
mountain mahogany, sagebrush, juniper, serviceberry, and a variety of
grasses until spring permitted their return to the high timber country.
Indians and trappers found this same area productive for pursuit of their
activities until a road was built in 1873-74, which led to agricultural
development and building of a sawmill and dairy. By 1894 a cheese factory,
largest in the state of Utah at that time, was in operation. As
agricultural interests spread and encroached upon their natural winter
range, the elk began feeding on the unprotected haystacks of the farmers,
causing considerable damage. Also, the area left to them began to
deteriorate as the increased numbers foraged on a smaller range.
Seventy two years later (1946) the Utah Division of Wildlife Resources,
recognizing the plight of the elk and the complaints of the farmers,
purchased from the Box Elder Hardware Company 7,560 acres, which included
the ranch buildings and about 130 acres of irrigated meadowland. Additional
acreage purchased later brought the total to 19,000 acres. Two years after
the initial purchase, winter feeding began with a supply of meadow hay
(about 4,500 bales) that had been cut, baled, and stored at the ranch.
A chain link drift fence was built from Logan Canyon to Blacksmith Fork
Canyon to hold the elk on the ranch during the winter months. Sometimes the
gates were left open, and eventually holes began to appear in the fence,
but the enclosure served its purpose fairly well.
Early in December, when the heavy snows had covered their food in the high
mountains, the elk came down into the lower canyon and began to congregate
at the feedlot. Now, like all opportunists, they stay for the "handout".
Although the hay is only about 25% of their diet requirements, it keeps
them from foraging on the farmers' haystacks, and their presence at the
feedlots has become a winter attraction for thousands of people.
A tawny colored bull elk, weighing close to a thousand pounds, with his
dark brown mane, yellowish tan rump, and antlers that branch out to more
than 54 inches over his back, is an unforgettable sight. Smaller than the
bull, the alert, graceful cow may be seen with her calf, that by this
season has lost its juvenile big white spots.
In the areas where the "Hardware Ranch" elk live year around, there are few
of the predators which constitute their natural controls -- wolves, cougars,
bears, and coyotes. This second largest deer in the world (the moose is the
largest) ably defends itself under normal conditions from the attacks of a
predator with its sharp hooves, and the bull elk's well developed tines
(if he has not shed them). Witnesses to such a confrontation have reported
that the predator, if not rebuffed, was reduced to a "gory pulp", by either
sex, as it stomped out the life of its would-be assailant. The elk may
appear to have a "bovine" nature, but can also be very dangerous to man
when unduly antagonized or harassed.
So far, the artificial feeding has apparently reduced problems that would
otherwise have occurred, although the winter range outside the feedlot is
noticeably deteriorating, according to a Wildlife Rsources officer. Because
of lack of natural predator control, late hunts are frequently declared to
keep the herd size at a level necessary for survival on their limited range.
Visitor numbers, which peak when the bobsleds start running through the
feeding animals, are well confined and controlled. The visitor center, with
its big panoramic windows, has many informative displays concerning this
American cousin of the handsome European red deer, and provides unsurpassed
scenic winter views. Hardware Ranch is currently the best solution or
compromise to the problem of agriculture versus wildlife.
The elk, or wapiti, in recognition of its large size and striking
appearance, has been named Utah State Mammal.
Hardware Ranch is reached by taking the Brigham City turnoff from I-15
to US 89-91 to Wellsville. Turn south on 101 through Hyrum, and on to
Hardware Ranch. The road is well marked.
-- by Leah Foerster
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