PILSEN

Neighborhood History and Reviews


Pilsen.


Recent Sightings

Neighborhood Spotlight:

Cafe Jumping Bean - This Cafe/Coffee shop is one of the coolest places to get a cup of anything in the city. There are wireless access points for any laptop users, as well as good drinks (hot and cold), Cheesecake and other deserts, and good variety of hot and cold sandwiches/wraps. There is a great assortment of art on display (all of which is usually for sale). It's located at 1439 W. 18th St., Chicago Tel: (312) 455-0019 . A perfect stop off on the walk east from the 18th Street Blue line station.

Cafe Jumping Bean review in Echo Magazine

Perhaps a more detailed description of my neighborhood might appear at some later date, but for now I will give a short skeleton-like summary.

Pilsen is an urban neighborhood on the near-west side of Chicago. It composes one of the largest and complex Mexican American neighborhoods in the United States, and according to a recent issue of Punk Planet, it is one of the few remaining neighborhoods that look like traditional Chicago--full of color, creativity, and working class vigor. According to writer and Labor Historian Mike Davis, Chicago might be labeled as a Polycentric barrio. In other words, spatially speaking, Chicago's Latino population has been concentrated into different (4) areas. In the past, the initial ports of Mexican immigration were the Back of the Yards neighborhood encompassing the South and Southwest side of Chicago whereas today the largest port of Mexican immigration in the Midwest is Pilsen. It has been molded by the contributions of 5 generations of immigrants.

Pilsen was came into its own as an established neighborhood with the influx of Bohemian Czech immigrants in 1868. In years previous, the Chicago Police Department had made an effort to purge the Northern neighborhoods of Eastern European groups who had begun to gain footholds into that part of the city through cultural influence and successful businesses. Police brutality in the form of killings, beatings, and mass arrests pushed these groups further to the South relocating in Pilsen. Some say this was to be an advantage as Pilsen managed to avoid the severe effects of the 1871 fire which destroyed one-third of the city. Blue Island Avenue, a central vein which runs through the heart of Pilsen, has been a major highway for transporting goods in and out of Chicago (see Carl Sandburg's "Blue Island Intersection").

Anyone that lives in Chicago understands that there is a strong current of labor activism. Pilsen has been a crucial center for this history, partly because many of the post-fire industry was forced to moved to Pilsen, and partly because Eastern European bohemians well-established in Pilsen were heaviliy associated with various ideas such as socialism, anarchism, and the Freethinkers. Strong Unions still exist in Pilsen, as do many independent-minded political activists and art collectives. Current political activism in the area may owe something to East Pilsen's thriving art scene which hosts numerous art walks throughout the year.

As for an abbreviated Pilsen Scene Report, I have very few links or addresses, but perhaps I'll update that at a later time. Hopefully names and approximate locations will suffice.




Pilsen Scene Report

Hasta Cuando? - Hasta Cuando?, a politically charged zine located in Chicago’s largely Latino populated Pilsen neighborhood, demonstrates that accessibility is a key component to building upon the dominant limitations of alternative media. They have managed to do what even larger independent media types like The Nation and Mother Jones, two of the largest names in progressive media, have yet to do: that is, put politics into a language that is truly inclusive by producing an accessible bilingual publication. The title Hasta Cuando?, connoting “how much longer” or literally “until when”, was taken from a film about Puerto Rican painter and political prisoner Elizam Escobar, for whom the founders Tracy kurowski and Leticia Cortez hold a deep admiration. Hasta Cuando? has tackled issues such as the polluting caused by the nearby Clark Oil Refinery, sexual discrimination, and local infrastructure inadequacies. Increasing in aesthetic sophistication and evolving in depth, without being dipped in abstract methodology, it has covered the environment, reflected on the 2000 elections, interpreted the meanings of 9/11, given due attention to “Mujeres Rebeldes” (Rebel Women), and responded to the travesty of the ongoing occupation in Iraq (“The Ends Justify the Screams”)16. While the funds for the circulation of their zine were originally procured through the channels of punk benefit shows, they have since been awarded a Chicago Reader Foundation grant of $1000 per year for several years. This will allow them to produce the zine bi-annually at a circulation of 3,000 to 5,000 copies each. Though this may be comparably smaller to the much larger circulations of nationwide (Chicago-based) zine Punk Planet or Maximum Rock and Roll (San Franciso-based), their blueprint is gaining acclaim as a useful model in other communities. At the beginning of November of 2003, Hasta Cuando?facilitated a DIY workshop on producing and publishing bilingual media at the National Conference For Media Reform (the largest of its kind to date) sponsored by the Madison, Wisconsin based Independent Media Center. Email them or write them at 1840 S. Racine Chicago, IL 60608

Recent Hasta Cuando (or related ) stories: Political Power in Pilsen , A Guide to Alternative Media in Chicago

Kristoffer's Cafe - This place is really good for breakfast with your friends who might be a little on the 'must-be-classy' side. It's really well done on the inside, and has been popularized mostly by the fact that it has changed names and ownership quite a few times over the years. The highlight of Kristoffers is surely the cakes (of which my personal favorite is the Flan w/ Cheese). There is a Pilsen-centric art feel to the place in general. Currently on display (as of January 2004) is Mario Castillo, who has graced more a few of his more well-known works with a mixture of paint and bodily fluids. The Cafe itself however is very nice, though if you want to use the wireless cards for your laptop, from what I've heard, you'll have to remind Carlos 4 times before he actually brings one to you.

Los Crudos - The most politically charged band ever to walk the streets of Chicago. Ventured out into the world with their message. Started and ended in Pilsen.

Irv's Bicycle Shop - any bike or skateboard purchases can be made with Henry Ortiz, owner of Irv's Bicycle Shop. Specializing in custom parts and "creative bicycle construction" (if one can call it that), Irv's has pretty much everything you need. They are also positive contributors to the community as they are one of the sponsors for the Pilsen/Little Village chapter of Habitat for Humanity. It's located at 1725 S. Racine in Pilsen.



Apartment Spotlight
2nd floor contemplation

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Pilsen apartments pack plenty of office space.
Other Pilsen-ites
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My good friend Matt lives 3 blocks down the street (albeit the other side of the tracks).
18th Street Blue Line
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The murals which thoroughly grace the walls of the 18th street train station shed light on the artistic vibrance of the surrounding Pilsen community.
Saturday Morning @ Kristoffer's Cafe
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Sal and Jody paid a visit to Pilsen over the holidays and were quite impressed with the ambiance of its cafes.
Study Breaks
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Most of the semester I'll be either reading, writing, or playing along to Pop Unkown, My Morning Jacket, Blue Hawaiians, or The Challengers.
Pilsen In February
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This is a view of Pilsen on a cold day taken from the vantage point of the 18th St. stop of the Blue Line.
Old School
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Lounging out on a Saturday Eve. Left to Right: Ignatius, T.J., N.V.

 

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