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Summary
Farm Park is one of the numerous outcrops of variable quality rock on the
Lyttelton Harbour (south) side of the ridge which runs out to Godley Head from Evans Pass.
The Jane Fonda wall is the other currently developed one.
History
Climbed on back in the late 70's, the crag didn't gain much attention until the
more popular crags became worked out and the route baggers went looking for fresh
ground. Some of the ground here is still a little fresh...
How to get there
Drive along the Godley Head to where the track crosses the road at the last layby
above Taylors Mistake. Park and walk to the south watching out for concrete man-traps.
A few tens of metres down the hill a crag will become apparent to the right/west.
Climbing notes
Being south facing, the crag tends to be cooler and more prone to dampness than others.
On hotter days this can be a good thing. Due to the low traffic volumes, some of the routes
are less clean and stable than they might be, watch out for loose rock.
Climbs are listed from right to left which tends to be the way they're approached.
Right Hand End
| Car Culture |
18 |
8m |
Joe Arts '97 |
 |
The first significant wall with a crack in the top half. Two bolts and other
pro. If you expect to slip off the jug while clipping the second bolt, use
double ropes! Single anchor bolt at the top.
| Ride On Time |
22 |
|
Ton Snelder |
|
The first smooth wall. Bolts and wire(s).
| Rat Race |
24 |
|
Tony Burnell '97 |
|
Start at some ledges just left of the start of "Ride on Time", up the
easy ledges (BR) to gain the base of a diagonal hanging crack near a
bush (BR) move up the crack then move out right onto the face to the
third (BR). Sequency face climbing past the third and fourth (BR)to a
bolt belay at the top left side of the wall. Steeper than it looks.
| Rat or Two'ey |
21 |
|
Tony Burnell '97 |
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Start as for Rat Race but at the second bolt continue up the left
slanting crack (CD's) to an existing bolt with link after the bolt at
the apex of the cracks move up into a sentry box then out left to a
lower off.
| Keep 1080 |
18 |
|
Joe Arts '95 |
|
The crack with a bolt at the top, left of ROT. Good pro, but the rock is a little crumbly. There's a
single anchor bolt to the low and left.
| Dead Rabbits |
20 |
|
Joe Arts '95 |
|
The yellow wall 2m left of Keep 1080. Either start on the left of the
first bolt and follow the jugs directly to the second bolt, or alternatively start
right of the first bolt and crimp your way upwards, possibly skipping the
2nd bolt (very hard to get to from the right). Then to the top on good holds. Single
anchor bolt shared with Keep 1080. 4 bolts.
| Sideshow |
18 |
|
Simon Middlemass |
|
Starting R of a small roof, move up the square overhanging face above. Three bolts and a rap chain.
| Teen Angel |
19 |
|
Marcus Thomas '95 |
|
Start on good rock directly below Sideshow to gain crack (small wires). Turn the overhang on the left to
climb the wall (crux at first bolt) going straight up to the top. There's pro behind a possibly loose block
near the top. Watch for loose holds.
| Speckled Jim |
13 |
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Phil Stuart-Jones '78 |
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The rather obvious deep cleft. Soloed back around 1978 but claimed and named more recently by Gavin Tweedie.
| Tightening The Noose |
20 |
|
Lindsay Main '98 |
|
Start directly below a trucated hanging groove, just left of
the arete. Up on small holds to wire placements in a small
crack; then rightward past a bolt with hanger and up the
groove. Finish up the arete right of the vegetation past
another bolt and belay at the chain on top of Sideshow.
| Gravel Pit |
18 |
|
Joe Arts '98 |
|
Obvious crack line two metres left. Steep bouldery start past
a large hold to a bolt with links, then easily up the crack
with CDs to a double anchor chain. Very loose.
| Loose Grits |
21 |
|
Joe Arts '98 |
|
Another crack with an undercut start. Up over the roofs on
decaying rock past three bolts with chain links, with dynamic
moves to reach anything that might stay on. Continue up the
crack, watching for loose holds. Not highly recommended.
| True Grit |
20 |
|
Damian Carroll '91 |
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A corner with a roof a few metres up and another at the top.
Committing moves through the first roof (crux), then easily up
the corner and top roof. Natural pro.
| Frankie's Wild Years |
22 |
|
Damian Carroll '91 |
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A few metres L, go up the crooked corner. 3 bolts and other
pro. Rather scary.
| Lip Service |
23 |
|
Tony Burnell '97 |
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Starts under a large roof left of "Frankies Wild Years", a decomposing
pillar forms the left arete of the roof and unfortunately you have to
climb this to get to the first bolt, after this the rock quality
improves markedly.
From the first bolt move up the arete slightly left to gain a shallow
finger jam from which you can lean out precariously to clip the second
bolt, move up left of the second bolt to good holds, now traverse the
lip gymnastically rightwards to the third bolt and a good incut pocket.
Climb the bulging wall above on horizontal holds which vary from poor to
good, thankfully, stand up above the fourth bolt, good breaks above and
to the right lead to a single bolt lower off.
The next seven routes are on a clean orange wall with
excellent rock.
| * Pebbles Does Bam Bam |
15 |
|
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Start up an obvious crack with grass. At mid height a diagonal
ledge leads right, but step left and continue up the line to a
single bolt chain anchor.
| Balancing Act |
17 |
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Lindsay Main '98 |
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Start to the right of the flaxes and climb a vague crack line
to a bolt on the left with chain links, which is shared with
the next climb. Pull on to the ledge and clip a bolt with a
hanger; climb to another ledge (crux) and through to the top
with indifferent natural pro and a bolt on FTE.
| Fishing To Extinction |
18 |
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Joe Arts '98 |
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Start between the flaxes and climb easy ground to a bolt with
links. Climb the thin crack (natural pro) on small but good
holds and continue up the line above past another bolt to
anchor chains on the left.
| Extinct Snapper |
19 |
|
Joe Arts '98 |
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Start at the left of the flaxes and scramble up easy walls and
ledges to a small bulge with a bolt with links. Straight up
through the roof (crux) with a small wire for pro to
reasonable holds and good CD placement. Steep exit to the chains.
| The Man From Atlantis |
19 |
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Grant Piper '97 |
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The wall right of Geckoblaster, climb past 3 bolts, then move left
to a good wire placement and up to th Geckoblaster belay. Alternatively
finish straight up the steep headwall (23?).
| * Geckoblaster |
21 |
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Damian Carroll '91 |
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The impressive wall with three bolts and natural pro at the
top. The crux is moving past the first bolt on small crimps,
after which the holds are bigger (easiest if you climb slightly to the right
of the first two bolts).
| Armchair Climber |
17 |
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Grant Piper '96 |
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Start as for Geckoblaster but move left past the bolt to the
armchair (why not take a rest?), and then up the crack. The
pro is good providing you have gear to fit the placements.
The next wall to the left of the cave has six routes. There is
a double anchor chain which is in the middle and well back
from the top.
| Cul de Canard |
19 |
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Alan Hill '97 |
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Just left of the cave is a large flake (handle with care).
Surmount the flake and climb the wall rightward, exiting at a
right-leaning corner.
| Come Play With Me |
21 |
|
Matt Abbot '91 |
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About two metres left is an overhanging crack with a partly
formed right-facing corner. Start on the arete to gain the
ledge, then strenuous moves up the crack follow (pro is hard
to place). Exit left and up over the grass to an anchor chain
well back. Matt Abbot, 1991.
| Reaction Time |
20 |
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Lindsay Main '98 |
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The overhanging wall with a small roof. Start as for Coming
Through (wire pro) or slightly right. There's a wire placement
in an odd slot just below the ledge. From the ledge up the
wall and through the roof with two bolts, then easy climbing
with natural pro.
| Coming Through |
18 |
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Lindsay Main '98 |
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On a wall with yellow lichen is a thin crack which takes wires
leading to a ledge, then up a vague left-facing corner with
good pro initially. Steeply up on good holds and tie off a
protruding knob with a sling; then easily to the top and a
double chain well back and slightly left.
| Brunswick Here We Come |
18 |
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Joe Arts '98 |
|
Two metres left is this wall with a seam and a small matagouri
(CD placement). Steepening climbing past two bolts eases with
a move to the right and another bolt, then it's cruisy to the
top.
| Long Live The Tuna |
17 |
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Joe Arts '98 |
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Start a metre right of the overhang at a vague groove and
bridge up to the first bolt, then natural pro with good holds
to a steep finish.
Past the end of the cave is a curving flake/crack which is...
| High Hopes |
16 |
15m |
Lindsay Main '94 |
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This route takes the large flake and overhanging crack on the
right wall of the big corner. Then up steep ground to chains
at the top.
| The Brat |
17 |
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Lindsay Main '97 |
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The crack at the back of the huge obvious corner. Initially,
move left on to ledge to gain the corner proper, then bridge
and jam to a spectacular finish. Mid to large CDs and chain
anchors.
| El Nino |
17 |
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Lindsay Main '97 |
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the big corner to the right of Jam Bandit
| Jambandit |
18 |
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Damian Carroll '91 |
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Obvious leaning flake with a wide crack on the right side. Jam
and layback the crack to the notch at the top and a manky
chain - the double chain at the top of Block and Decker two
metres left should be used as a primary anchor.
| Yikes |
20 |
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Pete Sykes '91 |
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Just L of J. The thin crack.
| Block and Decker |
23 |
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Tony Burnell '97 |
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Start below a roof midway between "Yikes" and "Schwartzkopf", Surmount
the roof (BR) and enter the groove on the left with difficulty to gain a
good flat hold (BR) on right, bridge up awkwardly up the groove and move
right (BR), move to the right of the bolt and go up the steep wall (BR),
carry on straigt up to a large ledge and double bolt lower off.
| Pulp Friction |
21 |
|
Marcus Thomas '95 |
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Start from the rock just right of Schwarzkopf. Crux at bolt one to gain the large flake. Straight up the
groove above to another crux below the loop. Run-out easy ground above, and left to S's bolt anchor.
| Schwarzkopf |
23 |
|
Athol Whimp '91 |
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The black wall with two blots, other placements, and a rap chain.
| Dark Lands |
23 |
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Tony Burnell '97 |
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Takes the hanging groove right "Dark Star" Climb the wall with
difficulty to the second bolt move slightly left into the groove proper,
an ability to bridge helps, go straight up the groove to a single bolt
lower off (in effect bolt No. 5) the climbing at the top is steeper but
easy.
| *** Dark Star |
23 |
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Damian Carroll '91 |
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The rounded black groove.
| Black Ball |
21 |
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Tony Burnell '97 |
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Climbs the wall to the left of "Dark Star". Boulder problem start, over
the roof past the first bolt, move up and the angle eases clip the
second bolt up again third br. move left to where the wall steepens up
this past two more BR to a lower off.
| Black Hole |
23 |
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Tony Burnell '97 |
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Start as for Dark Star to just above the first bolt then move out left
and follow the rounded overhanging arete, good holds where there needed,
at the sixth bolt lower off or step right to DS belay.
| Exfoliating Miss Daisy |
19 |
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Tony Billings '98 |
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| Grumpy Jack |
15 |
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Tony Billings '98 |
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bouldery start
| Peal |
15 |
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Tony Billings '98 |
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up the right facing corner/arete
| Gin Rummy |
17 |
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Tony Billings '98 |
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the obvious crack line
about 50 meters to the left is a wall with a gully with a
large jammed chockstone on the left
| Bumblebeebum |
17 |
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Alan Hill '97 |
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upt he juggy bulge and the centre of the grey slab.
At the left end of the wall it gets higher and there is a gully with a thorny bush at the bottom.
| Moonlight Buttress |
14 |
2p |
Pete Sykes (first pitch) & Damian Carroll '91 |
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Pitch 1: Up the crack in the R wall of the gully, belay at the tree.
Pitch 2: Go behind the trees and traverse to the bolt on the buttress crest, then zigzag on good holds up through
the overhangs.
| Infinite Dress |
16,14 |
2p |
Tony Billings, Craig Smith '98 |
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On the left hand side of
the gully by Moonlight Buttress. Tree and CD placements to belay off in the middle.
Continue traversing L until an overhanging wall appears. This is 'The Head Wall'.
| * Sisters Raise Blisters |
17 |
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On the R of the Head Wall is a bulge with a groove. Go up this then left at the overhang and up. Good pro.
| ** Loads Of Love Grips |
19 |
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Up the crack two metres L of SRB then up the jugs. Move L at the overhang (crux) and through the break. Good pro and a bolt belay.
| You F....ing Die! |
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Matt Abbot '91 |
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A metre L of LOLG, go up the wall to the roof. Up to jugs then second roof and layback (crux). Three bolts, cams, and bolt belay.
| * False Sensitivities |
19 |
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Paul Waters '91 |
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A metre L of YFD is a tricky leftwards start up to a bolt. Continue to a stance then step L into the groove.
At the top of this is a wall to the R and a slopey crux. Two bolts and good wires.
| * Acrylic Exterior |
18 |
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Matt Abbot '91 |
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Another metre L is a steep juggy wall with two bolts. Up to the block, mantle, and layback the crack.
| * Manipulative Womaniser |
21 |
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Matt Abbot '91 |
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Two metres L of EA is an overghanging arete which is climbed to a stance (L) then back R and up the wall. Two bolts and a rap chain.
| Billy Bogan's Acid Hysteria |
17 |
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Ben White '91 |
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On the lefthand end of the Head Wall is an obvious pedastal. Gain it from the R, then up (wires).
| Thanks For Letting Me Autograph Your Cat |
15 |
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Phil Stuart-Jones (solo) '96 |
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Silly name for a silly route. The arete at the lefthand end of the Head Wall.
Not much pro.
The crag restarts across a small gully with an overhanging arete.
| * Dreaming Of Reaming |
18 |
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Matt Abbot '91 |
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The first arete. Two bolts and a wire or two. Straight through at the top.
| Screaming and Creaming |
16 |
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The crack just left of the arete. Used to be the finish of DOR? Natural pro,
or clip the DOR bolts.
| Widdershins |
20 |
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Phil Staurt-Jones '97 |
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Up the wall two metres left of DOR. The first bolt protects the move up and
left through the overlap. Above this, trend slightly right, then back left to
the summit jugs above the second bolt. Other pro is available.
| * Exudes Hate |
22 |
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Paul Waters '91 |
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About five metres L of DOR is a loose overhanging corner with a crack. Luckily the rock improves before the crux below the second bolt.
| Do The Dyno - Direct |
20 |
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Do the start of EH but move left at the first bolt.
| Do The Dyno |
18 |
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Paul Waters '91 |
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Do the start of CC to the bolt then R to the lip. Move slowly up to the jug, or... Easier up the wall above.
| Cuddles Catastrophe |
13 |
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Paul Waters '91 |
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L of EH is an obvious but dirty line. At least there is pro.
| Dr Frank'n'Sykes |
18 |
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Damian Carroll '91 |
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Boulder up into the corner, gain the ledge, then up the groove. Bolts and cams.
| Elevator Doors |
21 |
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Damian Carroll '91 |
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The wall to the L. Finish through the R end of the overhang.
| * Arresting Aroma |
22 |
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Paul Waters '91 |
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The triangular cave well to the L is bridged to the bolt, then strength will get you to the crack and pro. It's easier up to the rap chain.
| Sandblasted Zits |
18 |
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Paul Waters '91 |
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A metre L of the cave, is an arete and a crack. Climb either to a stance then up the crack to an awkward move R to a rap chain. Good pro.
| Whistle |
17 |
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Craig Smith '98 |
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Inside the access gully to the top of
the North Wall. Short but nice.
| Fat Slags |
13 |
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Tony Billings '98 |
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opposite Whistle, horrible!!
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Farm Park Crag