Rapaki Rock

A crag much beloved by beginning climbers, outdoor ed classes and scouts. Easy walk-on, walk-off access means the place is often crowded with top-ropers, though all routes are leadable on gear. Not as many classic routes as other port hills crags, but worth a visit if you can find a day when it's not too crowded.

CN Crow's Nest MR Main Royale B Barricoe SB Strawberry Box B Ratlines M Mizzen MP Monkee Poop F Freakey's Wall GG Galley Gully BS Body & Soul B Bridge Too Far B Bilge F Forecourse FJ Flying Jib

Crows Nest

10

Climb the easy bottom wall, then move up slightly left to finish up jugs to the top.

Barricoe

12

An easy lower section gives access to a short steep wall.

Bosun's Chair

16

Ratlines

9

A steep crack with small but good holds leads to ledges, finish by trending up left. A harder direct finsh continues up from the top of a large flake.

Fo'c's'le

14

Monkee Poop

13

Smooth rock near the bottom becomes more inviting under a small but prominent nose. Climb up one side or other of the nose, continue up either a narrow slab or an adjacent crack.

Blankety Blank

24

Tony Burnell '99

no pro at all.

Banalarama

22

Dave Fearnley '88

Penile Decay

23

Steve Elder '89

Galley Gulley

16

Climb up into the vee chimney, bridge and chimney to exit right onto the upper wall. Continue to the top. Good protection.

The Bridge Too Far

22

John Howard '78

Climb easily up into the groove, then bridge up to the roof. Continue bridging and exit with difficulty on to the top wall. Adequate protection.

Greasy Joan

17

a few difficult, slabby (slimy?) moves (#1 wire and RPs for pro) to gain the scoop, then a few powerful moves to get out of it followed by easy climbing to the top. Adequate (but technical) pro.

Whose Turn In The Barrell

19

Forecourse

14

Climb the corner at the left end of a ledge until the corner runs out. Ignore the easy finish off left, move up across a shallow hollow to the right. Continue straight up to the top.

Main Royale

16

A fine route, climb the middle of the wall following the thin crack line until under the left end of the overhang. Using underclings move up in the middle of the overhang to jugs over the roof. Finish up the pleasant top wall. Good protection.

Mark Tomlinson top-roping 'main royale' (15)

Yardarm

17

Climb the corner on right of M.R. wall then follow the arch shape and eventually gain the righthand end of M.R. overhang. Some loose rock but good pro. Move rightwards over the arch lip and easily to the top.

Brown Tongue

21

Tony Burnell '99

the brown pillar right of Yardarm. No pro.

Strawberry Box

17

Climb the corner, move right onto the wall, then move up with some difficulty to gain a niche. Continue up the easier top section.

Mizzen

17

Climb the rib on small holds (hard, very poor pro). Then up and into the chimney, from the cave at the top move out left. Easier climbing to the top. Varied climbing. Good protection. An easier start more in keeping with the rest of the climb would be the jam crack on the left.

Freakey's Wall

22

John Allen

Climb the wall at the left of B & S ledge, find a runner then continue up the loose flaky wall. Pro ok, but a lot of it's behind loose stuff.

Body and Soul

18

Climb onto the ledge on the right end, then move up and right. Climb the overhang to good holds on the upper wall, move up to cracks and grooves. Protection adequate - 3.5 or 4 friend helpful before upper bulge.

Bilge

15

Thrutch up the chimney, or swing up with technique. A traverse to the left using a horizontal crack leads to an easier groove between the big overhang on the left and the block on the right.

Dr Rock and the Carbo Kid

19

Dave Macleod

Flying Jib

14

Starts at a lower level, climb the steep wall and gain the groove. Climb up the crack moving right near the top. Good protection.