The Wunderbar Wall


map of the mount pleasant area

Climbing on unusual and solid rock in a hidden, peaceful corner of Lyttleton. The wall has a NW aspect which is sunny all year and dries quickly.

How To get there

From the tunnel, turn left into Norwich Quay, then third street on the left, second on right and left into St David Street. Continue straight up the hill into Brenchley Rd. Peark clear of the road 50m before the pine trees. Walk past the trees through a gate and follow the track between stone walls up the valley past the caves. Where the track trifurcates take the right hand track and climb gradually across to the left hand edge of the wall (10 minutes walk).

The DoC land is leased by Pip Forer, phone 328-8835. Don't take your dog.

Most routes take natural protection, though some routes have hangered bolts as well. Take a tape loop for the anchors.

wunderbar wall topo
MECMore than Ewes Can Chew JSJellied Squeals
SSkylark OUPOnce Upon a Planet
NNettle SOSchool's Out
FCFiction Climb CYFCross Your Fingers
BOGBlaze of Glory K3K3
CWPClimb without a postcard FDBFish Don't Need Bicycles

More Than Ewes Can Chew 16 Neil Sloane '92 beta

Left side of block, then move right and into scoop to graze the bush.

Skylark 17 Neil Sloane '92 beta

Groove/crack beginning on right side of the slab.

Nettle 18 Neil Sloane '92 beta

Traverse left to clip the bolt and left up the ledges. Clip the other bolt and boldly climb the right side of the block. Nice moves at top.

Fiction Climb 17 Neil Sloane '92 beta

As for Nettle to the 2nd bolt, then ove right to the arête. Clip the last bolt and traverse over the arête.

Blaze Of Glory 18 Neil Sloane '92 beta

The crack which becomes a corner. Don't wimp out right to the bush.

Climb Without A Postcard 16 Neil Sloane '92 beta

Twin cracks straight up past bolt and bush.

Jellied Squeals 19 Neil Sloane '92 beta

Crack line up into smooth scoop. Be brave!

Once Upon A Planet 19 Neil Sloane '92 beta

Up and left to clip the bolt. Straight up the wall past the rabbit hole, control knob and two more bolts. Then exit right over arête. Take a #3 friend. Direct finish (20) from the top bolt - slap your way up the face to the open.

School's Out! 15 Neil Sloane '92 beta

The corner on the edge of the third summit.

Cross Your Fingers 19 Neil Sloane '92 beta

Bridge up the left edge of the cave to the arête. Clip the bolt and climb the wall.

K3 18 Neil Sloane '92 beta

From right edge of cave climb left treating rock with care. Traverse under small wall and climb straight up crack/groove past the seat. Nice moves at top, save a #2 friend for the seat.

Fish Don't Need Bicycles 18 Neil Sloane '92 beta

From the base of black crack, layback the arête until standing on it. Place the #4 friend and then move right onto face.

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