Parts list
Step 1 - Removing the board
Step 2 - Removing the components
Step 3 - Putting in the new components
Step 4 - Switching between the mods
Step 5 - Re-assembly
Clips
Conclusion
Sites to buy materials from

You will need:

• 0.1uF Capacitor x 5
• 1uF Capacitor x 4 (or two 0.47uF caps in parallel, it should give the same results)
• 0.047uF Capacitor x 1
• 3mm LED x 1 (I bought two so I didn't have to use the one that you take out of the DS-1)
• on/on SPDT switch
• 2.4k Resistor x 1
• 20k Resistor x 1
• 1.5k Resistor x 1
• 220pf Cap x 1
• 47pf Cap x 1

Step 1 - Removing the board [Top]

1. Use a flat head screwdriver to lever off the knobs on the DS-1 then use some pliers to unscrew the nuts on the pots.
2. Unscrew the black screws on either side to provide access to the on/off switch
3. Unscrew the nuts on the input jacks
4. Undo all four screws on the base plate
   (not shown)
5. Remove base plate, plastic to get to the circuit board.
6. Remove the screw on the LED to the top of the pedal
7. Turn the pedal on its front so you can see where the battery goes. On my pedal, I simply had to push two sides of the clips together and lift out the switch. The wires were soldered through the pedal so I unsoldered the purple and black wires and set the switch aside.
   
   You should now be able to completely remove the circuit from the housing.

Step 2 - Removing the components [Top]

C1, C3, C5, C12, C13 - these are silver in colour and look like they are covered in plastic
Referance Diagram

C2, C8, C9, C14 - Rather than being silver, these look like small black batteries
[Referance Diagram]

C11, R13, R14, R39, C7, D5 - This is a more mixed bunch, there's some silver caps, resistors and a ceramic cap.
[Referance Diagram]

The board should now look like this.

Step 3 - Putting in the new components [Top]

• R13 needs to have a 2.4k resistor
• R39 needs to have a 20k resistor
• R14 needs to have a 1.5k resistor
  They look like this in place
  
• C1, C3, C5, C12, C13 all need to be installed with 0.1Uf Caps
  Once they are in they should look like this.
• C2, C8, C9, C14 need to have 1uF caps installed and should look like this.
  ( I used two 0.47 caps in parallel I.E. soldered together to make a 0.94uF cap, yours will probably look different)
• C11 needs to have a 0.047uF cap
• C7 needs to be changed to a 220pf cap like this
• There needs to be a 47pf cap across clipping diodes, solder the cap to here:

Bob, as they say, is your uncle

Step 4 - Switching between the All-seeing eye mod and the Ultra mod [Top]
First of all, its worth noting that it is a lot easier to not use a switch and just leave the pedal in either ASE or Ultra modes. If you just want the All seeing eye mod, you will need to remove D5 and replece it with an LED. If you want the Ultra mod, you will need to put a LED in series with D4 as well as changing D5. Difficult to get your head arround, but this diagram should help:

Adding a switch is a little more complex, take these steps and you should be fine:

1. Undsolder D4 on the right hand side (this is the side with the black stripe on the diode)
   and send that wire to the middle lug of the switch.
2. You then wire the + side of the LED to one of the two remaining lugs, it dosn't really matter which one.
   The longer leg should be positive (http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/led.htm).
3. Send a piece of wire from the last remaining lug and the negative side of the LED to the space in D4.

If you are installing a new check LED, note which side of the LED was + and - and put the new LED in accordingly - if you forget or don't know don't worry it wont damage the LED if you try it both ways. Usually, most 3mm LEDs will work with the current resistor in, but if you are using a 5mm LED change R35 to a 2k4 resistor.

Step 5 - Re-assembly [Top]
If you have used a switch this is important, you have to decide where to put it! The most room is on the sides just below the jacks, this however does look kinda clumsy and is kinda difficult to reach. The alternative is on the face of the pedal where all the knobs are. This is a bit more difficult, but looks a lot better. My pedal has the Keeley switch on the front and two more switches on the side (one for circuit bending and the other for switching between two capacitors).

If you want it on the front, be careful when drilling and make sure that you don't damage the components! (I took mine out for this bit) Remember to use a punch so the drill dosn't move (if you don't have a propper one, use a screw).

The easiest way to assemble is probably like this:

• Bolt the switch to the front of the pedal
• Attach the ASE LED to the front of the pedal
• Screw the 'Check' LED to the pedal from the inside
• Attach the jacks
• Push the pots through the holes and screw them in
• Make sure the 9V adapter is in its hole and push the back of the circuit down so the back will screw on
• If you did any circuit bends and put the switches on the sides, wire them up now and attatch the switches to the side
• Put the plastic behind the circuit and screw the pedal together!

Pedal Clips [Top]

Clip 01

Guitar: Orville by Gibson Les Paul Custom, Riff Raff Alnico 5 pickup in neck position with volume rolled down to 7
Amp: Marshall DSL 401 Combo Flat settings on clean channel (all 12 o'clock) apart from gain down to 10 o'clock. Plays clean first then plays with the pedal.
Mode: Switch up; all seeing eye mod

Listen here!

Clip 02
Guitar: Orville by Gibson Les Paul Custom, Riff Raff Alnico 5 pickup in neck position with volume rolled down to 7
Amp: Marshall DSL 401 Combo Flat settings on clean channel (all 12 o'clock) apart from gain down to 10 o'clock.
Mode; Switch up; All seeing eye mod

Listen here!

Clip 03
Guitar: Orville by Gibson Les Paul Custom, Riff Raff Alnico 5 pickup in neck position with volume on full
Amp: My distortion settings. The lick is played first through my distortion then the ds-1 is used as a boost to smooth out the sound and show the pedal being used as a boost.
Mode: Switch down; Ultra mod

Listen here!

Clip 04
Guitar: Orville by Gibson Les Paul Custom, Anderson H3 Bridge, volume full
Amp: Guitar rig 2 simulation "Gratifier" (Mesa Dual Rec) Clean first, then with pedal.


Listen here!

Conclusion [Top]
When you first plug it in, be careful! You will probably be trying to put in your old settings into the pedal. Remember, this is not a boss DS-1 anymore! The best tones I have found so far have been on the lower more subtle settings, great for blues and mild distorted tones. Sounds especially good when the volume is rolled down. Don't be mistaken, this pedal can be used for high-gain stuff (hence clip 3) sounds fantastic as a boost to get a smooth lead sound instead of using the amp and sacrificing your lead tone. I think this is probably what Satch and Vai use there's for, but I'm not sure.

It is definitely worthwhile to try, I will probably use this on my pedalboard now where I wouldn't have usually (it used to be a great door stop). To be fair, I don't think I have found the best tones out of it. There seems to be quite a few farty tones here and there which are really quite terrible, but I'm leaving that down to me not knowing the full properties of it yet! If you need help with this, I may be able to help, you can find me at guitargeek, my user name is lp_man, you can either pm me, send me an e-mail, start a thread or reply in this thread; http://guitargeek.com/chat/showthread.php?s=&threadid=76894

I would like to say a special thanks to berarduur from guitargeek for all his help in this project! I wouldn't have had the technical know-how to deal with half of the stuff in here, and I'm pretty sure I nearly sent him insane with the amount of questions I asked!

Sites to buy materials from: [Top]
www.maplin.co.uk (some components aren't suitable so watch out. Stuff like LEDs and switches are fine though)
www.smallbearelec.com - great site where I usually get my componennts from


Top switch: Toggles between All Seeing Eye and Ultra Mods
Middle switch: Toggles between a high value Silver Micra cap and standard Ceramic cap, not really noticeable effect
Bottom switch: Toggles Circuit bending variation D on and off.

[Pic1]
[Pic 2]

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