First things first. Getting an accurate 1/4" seam allowance. You must have an accurate seam allowance! How to test? Cut three strips of fabric 2" wide. Sew the three strips with what you think is your 1/4" mark on your sewing machine. Press the seams of the strips in one direction. Now measure them. They should measure 5" across with the center piece measuring 1 1/2". If the set is smaller or larger, move your 1/4" mark and try again until it is right! Remember that pressing in one direction also takes up some fabric. I put masking tape on my machine to guide me. Just follow the
steps below.
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When I sew my strips, I hold the fabric on the bottom
between my index and middle finger, and I use my thumb on top to align
the fabrics.
I can put some pressure on the fabric on the bottom so the feed dogs don't eat it up and it ripples underneath. More fabric underneath than on top is a big problem when sewing strips together. |
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I put a piece of graph paper under my needle with a quarter inch
grid extending to the right. Make sure the paper is straight.
You can use one of the lines on the sewing machine as a guide.
You can also use a ruler. Put the 1/4" mark from the ruler
under the needle.
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I put "check needle" on the tape. Why? If I put my needle in the center position on my Bernina, the feed dogs stick out beyond the pressure foot and I can't put tape on there because the tape will cover the feed dogs. So, if I move my needle over on click to the right, I am clear of the feed dogs with my tape. |
Then I put a big glob of masking tape on my sewing machine
at the 1/4" mark.
Okay, now if I turn off my sewing machine and come back later and turn it back on, my needle will be in the center again not one click to the right. I will start to sew and forget about moving the needle... I will sew four strips before I realize that the needle is in the wrong place and my seams are way too big! How do I know... been there, don't that! I hate to rip so I remind myself to check the needle! Okay, now I can just place my fabric right up to the tape and sew my little heart out and I know I have a 1/4" seam because I tested it. |
See how nice the tape is to follow as a sewing guide? Just keep the fabric against the tape and sew... | |
Next you will press the strips * properly *. |
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