Home Sweet Capiz by Rosario Albar | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Published in the Manila Bulletin USA March 4-10, 2004 Issue | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Waterfalls rush down the mountainside forming a refreshing pool that is quite irresistible after a challenging hike. | ||||||||||||||||||||||
As a child growing up in Capiz, I was not impervious to taunts about the nocturnal forays of fellow Capizenos. I would turn defensive and point to an obscure town in a neighboring province as the true home of the "aswang". If I had met one, perhaps I would not be writing this article. These creatures have wings and could easily outpace their victim. They often travel in groups making it difficult to escape from their clutches. The Philippine movies have done a superb job in perpetuating the legend of the half-bodied aswang they call "manananggal" in Tagalog (derived from "natatanggal sa katawan", detaches from the body). It seems these creatures are just like you and me during the day. But at night, they emerge half bodied and fly away in search of human appetizers. And like Dracula, they bite the poor victim and suck his or her blood. Then before light breaks, they return to their lower half and become whole once again. Tales of the aswang have overshadowed the many delights Capiz has to offer its visitors. There are black sand beaches to sink your toes into, caves to be explored, sleepy little hamlets to while the time away, churches that are poignant reminders of Spanish colonial rule and the freshest seafood in the islands. Capiz is after all, the seafood capital of the Philippines. Baybay beach stretches some 7 kilometers along the northern Panay coastline. Restaurants on the beach afford a sweeping view of the sea and Mantalinga Isaland while savoring the sweet and succulent locon (prawns) or linagpang (tiny shrimp marinated in white vinegar and ginger) and tilapia off the grill. Fishermen set off for an evening of fishing as others haul in their catch of the day and clean their nets on the shore in preparation for yet another day of trawling. A short drive from the capital, Roxas City, is the town of Pan-ay. It has the biggest bell in all of Asia. This bell which measures 7 ft. in diameter and 7 ft. in height was cast from 70 sacks of coins donated by the local people. It is surrounded by eight bells of varying sizes and may be accessed by climbing narrow stairs leading to the belfry of Santa Monica Church. The view from the top is breathtaking. Green farmlands and lush vegetation wrap the countryside. The church has withstood the elements since 1771 with its nine-foot thick walls that hark back to the Romanesque style of architecture predominant in Europe during the middle ages. Intricately carved hardwood retablos in the baroque style adorn the main and side altars. Spelunking aficionados have their pick of caves in Capiz. The Suhot caves in Dumalag as the name implies, is reached by "passing under" the rock face which hapens to be underwater. Spelunkers will have to swim in the cool, spring fed pool to get to the chambers on the other side. Above ground are the mouths to two shallow caverns. Before leaving the tree-lined streets of Dumalag, take time to see their parish church completed in 1872 and built from yellow sandstone capped by a blazing red dome. Note the scaled down buttresses supporting the walls of the church. Thank goodness the word is hardly out. In the nearby town of Jamindan is a little known area called Kalikasan inside Camp Peralta. A steep hike down the mountain leads into a canyon where the forest is thick with foliage and rumors of rare wildlife abound. Waterfalls rush down the mountainside forming a refreshing pool that is quite irresistible after the challenging descent. From here you can continue your trek to the other side of the canyon. Start early so you can return to camp before dusk. When corporeal activities wear you down and you merely wish to hang loose, then Dumarao is the ideal place to leisurely pass the time. A profusion of bougainvilleas and gumamelas line the roadway where palay is laid to dry on a mat before it is milled. Strolling around the town plaza, you are pleasurably treated to a field of blooms and a charming pavilion. In the adjacent school grounds, children are playing raucously but they do not steal away the peaceful ambience of this clean and pleasant community. We have only skimmed through some of the many wonderful surprises Capiz has in store for its visitors. There are more to whet the appetite. And not to worry about the appetite of its mythical inhabitants. Just wear a necklace of garlic cloves and you will stay unscathed. Kari na sa Capiz! Come to Capiz! It will bewitch you. * * * Getting there: PAL and Cebu Pacific have nonstop flights daily to Roxas City. You have to be an early riser as these flights leave at 6 a.m. and check-in is at least one hour prior to departure. Where to stay: Camp Peralta is a military camp. You need to get a pass at the gate to go to Kalikasan. You will probably be escorted to the site. Wear appropriate attire. During rainy season, the descent can be slippery. It is closed to visitors after 3 p.m. Big "Thank You" to the following for opening my eyes to the unique flavors of Capiz: The Staff at Camp Peralta, Bing Arceno, Minnie Gannaban, Teresa and Cesar Almalbis, Pilot and Rudy Beluso, Nick Villaruz and Jose Delfin. |
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