Yokoso! Tokyo by Rosario Albar | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
Published in the Manila Bulletin USA December 4, 2003 issue. |
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A replica of a Kabuki theater at the Edo-Tokyo Museum | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
Expecting to be overwhelmed by this city of 12 million people, I arrived late in the evening when all was quieter and much calmer. Getting out of Narita airport was a breeze and as I settled into the comfortable seat of the shuttle bus for the long ride to Tokyo, I was finally able to relax and forget my worries about this trip. From the TCAT station, I took a taxi to my hotel in the Ginza district, the shopping and amusement hub of Tokyo. It came as no surprise that the cab driver couldn't find my hotel. Very few streets in Tokyo have names and someone had to literally point the way so we could get there. The driver was very polite and helpful and insisted on carrying my heavy bag. He made me feel welcome. Yokoso indeed. The hotel room as is typical of Tokyo was small and cozy. It was my home away from home for a few days. It amused me to see the high tech toilet with all its buttons and special functions designed specifically for a deferential society. After a good night's sleep, I felt ready to explore Tokyo. For a bird's eye view of the city, the Observatory deck at the Hamamatsucho World Trade Center offers a 360-degree view of the sprawling metropolis of glass and steel broken only by the waters of Tokyo Bay. From this vantage point, Tokyo Tower fits in perfectly with its surroundings and is frankly more attractive than its twin in Paris. On clear days, it is possible to see Mt. Fuji in the distance. Sumida River divides the city in two. Many unique bridges span the river and are worthy of attention for the engineering marvels that they are. The Chuo-ohashi is the most aesthetically pleasing while Rainbow Bridge reminds me of Golden Gate Bridge. Japanese gardens have a universal appeal because of their simplicity and serenity. In a bustling and noisy city, the Hama-rikyu garden seems an anachronism. Against a backdrop of skyscrapers, the garden serves as a refuge from the pressures of daily life. Hama-rikyu was once the hunting grounds of the Tokugawa shogunate in the 17th century. One of the largest black pine trees in Tokyo spreads its 300 year-old branches along the entrance to the garden. The Nakajima-no-ochaya (Teahouse) sits in the middle of a pond and is connected by a 118-meter long bridge crafted from Japanese cypress cedar. Bounded on three sides by water, the garden is the ideal spot for a walk or for reflection and rejuvenation. It is a great place to be with friends and family and share obento lunches. In contrast, Tsukiji Fish Market is teeming with people from the wee hours of the morning as wholesalers bid for fresh catch at one of the largest auction houses for seafood in the world followed later in the day by housewives looking for something special to serve for dinner. Saturdays are extra busy and queues form outside restaurants. I watched as deep fried omelets were prepared on the street and felt pangs of hunger from the aroma of steaming noodle soup from food stalls nearby. Buddhism and Shintoism are the predominant religions of Japan. Senso-ji or Kannon Asakusa (pronounced Asaksa), is the oldest Buddhist temple in the region. A large red lantern weighing 100 kilograms dominates the entrance to the temple. It hangs from the second story of KaminariMon (Thunder Gate). It seems to be every visitor's favorite backdrop for that Kodak moment. Nakamise Dori is the pedestrian shopping lane leading to temple grounds. Red banners with signs in Kanji, colorful lanterns, souvenir shops crammed with traditional Japanese curios, food counters and people everywhere lend a festive mood to the scene. At HozoMon (middle gate), the atmosphere is more subdued giving worshippers breathing space for prayer and contemplation. To the left of Kannon Temple is a Shinto shrine identified by a simple gate called torii. The gate consists of two tall poles topped by a crossbeam and is one of the icons we easily identify with Japan. This shrine is dedicated to the two brothers who, according to legend, fished a golden statue of Kannon from the river. Kannon is the deity of mercy and happiness. Kabuki plays have been performed since the days of the Tokugawa shoguns. It is unique in that only male actors are allowed to perform. Onnagata are male actors who specialize in playing female roles. The Kabuki-za Theater has a rotating stage and sets are elaborate as are costumes. Musicians accentuate the play with bells, gongs, drums, bird noises or wooden blocks. Since kabuki plays are long (plays start at 11:00 a.m. and may continue until 10 p.m.), the audience can choose to watch an act lasting an hour. It's a show not to be missed. While building futuristic districts like Palette Town, Japan is deeply rooted in its past. The Edo-Tokyo Museum traces the history and culture of Edo, formerly Tokyo, by recreating scenes of daily life in miniature and scale models and through visual displays. The permanent exhibition area is divided into three zones-History, Edo, and Tokyo, each representing a specific era. Cross the replica of Nihonbashi Bridge and enter Edo. Learn how it has become the Tokyo we know today, a "City of the World". ****** Getting there: Japan Airlines has non-stop flights daily from San Francisco to Narita airport. LImousine buses or NEX trains transfer passengers to the center of Tokyo. Where to stay: The Hotel Monterey La Souer and the Montery Ginza are well situated in the heart of the Ginza district, close to shopping, restaurants, and public transportation. Their phone number is 03-3562-7111 or fax 03-3544-1600. |
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October 2003 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||