The Word: Friendly little routes. The Crag Classic: Exodus The Hidden Gem: Sun/shade: Either, anytime. One of Mitre Rock's attractions is the short walk in to either nice shady routes or nice sunny routes. Wet weather options: Nope. Style & Length of Climbs: 10-60m, slabby and vertical. Available Grades; Best Grades: 6-24
The Details: Doesn't look that great from a distance however there are a range of good pitches hidden amongst the mank.
Access: Drive N from the Pines to the main road, turn left and head W for about 2km. The turnoff is on the right before the cutting through the slight hill.
Descent(s): Walk down the gully in the middle.
Described anti-clockwise (R to L).
* Acapulco Gold 10m 19 (OS)
Fingerlocking for dummies! Any fool could cut loose on some of these sinker handholds! Place #2 cam off deck, (crux) pull through finger pocket to top of initial crack, then on to great sidepull on left of niche. #3 wire at bottom of niche, then step up to the best fingerlock on the planet, more gear, and cool sidepulling gains jugs through final bulge.
Acapulco Gold - me placing gear off possibly the best fingerlock on the planet . .
* Bostok 40m 14 (OS)
A great option for basking in the sunshine on a winters day. Fair 14 (despite downgrading in the recent selected guide!) and definitely worth a star. 8m up ramp, then about 6m of nice tricky moves over bulges. Up to 50cm roof, which kicks arse. Bomber gear, huge jugs, funky positions - woohoo! About 5m of nice vertical climbing above the roof, then 12-15m of low angled easy juggy stuff to bollard belay.
Bostok - Marcelle preparing to crank through the roof, after successfully negotiating the beautiful orange wall below.
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** Salem 45m 18 (YP)
Scurry up layback with good gear, but no good stances, then nicely up wall above.
*** Exodus 40m 6 (OS)
A really nice route, but super easy so I couldn't really comment on quality! Its just nice to fondle quartzose and play with wires! Great pro, a good trad lead for beginners.
Exodus - Here's Nicola cruising up it on her first ever lead.
Exodus - Some old codger in modern sticky rubber and a silly hat.
* Witch Hunt 40m 14 (OS)
Great. Bulgy slab leads to undercling roof, then delightful airy bridging up the open book corner on the front of the buttress. Continue over ledge, then jug infested wall to bollard belay.
Witch Hunt - A great airy section of climbing.
Witch Hunt - Nicola finishing off the great open book corner.
