The Pharos

The Word: Arapiles' biggest and best pinnacle.
The Crag Classics: Second Coming (22), Birdman of Alcatraz (23), Punks (32)
The Hidden Gem: I'm really keen to do the Dazed and Confused / Trojan linkup.

Sun/shade: Either, any time. The Pharos Back Wall is shady all day and gets quite cool.
Wet weather options: Yes there's plenty of rock stays dry here, although beware the tricky scrambles around the place which get treacherous when wet and have made at least one paraplegic. Particular dry routes include the first pitches of: Oceanoid (which now has a rap anchor) and neighbours; Trojan; Second Coming. Virginia and Spasm also stay dry although the top anchor will be wet.

The Arapiles escarpment, with The Pharos marked left of centre.
Araps R

Style & Length of Climbs: Vertical and slightly overhanging routes, 15-90m.
Available Grades; Best Grades: 8-32; 14-32
The Details: Contains some of the best hard routes at Araps, including the legendary Punks in the Gym (32). Fortunately, for punks like me, there is also a few easy climbs!
Access: 8-10min walk from The Pines.
Descent(s): Bring 2 ropes for the big rap descents off the summits.

The Pharos as viewed from the Watchtowers walk-in. The Aftermath Roof is in the orange rock (half shaded) halfway up the front of the main massif.
The Pharos, Arapiles

Described L to R.

Death Row Pinnacle

The 45m freestanding pinnacle down left of the Pharos proper, marked in the photo above. Take extreme care on top here - a LOT of the bollards are loose and there�s even been a death when one snapped. I�d recommend rapping off the back of the pinnacle, about 10m left of where DR tops out. There�s a huge block with a thread - you can pull the rope (using full body weight!), and its better than the deathly downclimb down the back of the pinnacle.

** Death Row 45m 18 (YP)
Way bizarre! The smooth layback to start is about the only orthodox section of this climb. Stepping out of the sentry box is very weird, and then stepping up the face above is also strange. Through the small roof, then left through the smooth bulge with a single vertical slot. Up to loose top out.

The outstanding Death Row Pinnacle, with Birdman of Alcatraz (*** 23) the major diagonal line finishing at top left, while Death Row starts up the low corner at the far end. In the distance is Uncle Charlie's, with Punks in the Gym (32) marked.

Uncle Charlie's

Home to world famous routes such as Punks in the Gym (32), India (28) etc. Marked in the 2 photos above.

* Pearls Before Swine 25m 20
Appealing, being the easiest route near Punks and India. If you can jam and also spy all the footholds (not telling where!) it's fair 20 - if not you'll join the large number of those who think it's a sandbag. It's also a nesting site for peregrines, and you can't see the nest from the ground. During nesting season (Aug-Jan??), before you do this route spend some time at the base to listen for any activity or to see if the parents are coming or going (although their usual behaviour is to stay away from their chicks when people are nearby so its no guarantee). Or just leave it until April! Anyway, start at the slabby arete 10m R of Punks, 15m L of India. Slab past some ok RPs, trend a bit L. Semi-chimney back R under the hanging nose, to a stemming stance in the corner under the big roof. A few quick underclings to the lip, jug just above, then some tricky crack moves. Move up the chimney then an easy traverse L to rap rings. The top pitch looks nice but we didn't do it.

** Coming on Chris 25m 16 (OS)
Good. At the far R end of Uncle Charlie's, about 20m up R from India, this pretty little orange corner faces uphill. Surprisingly tricky up the steep corner, and then a great little traverse left throws some exposure into the package, and simply ramble to the top. The DRB are very strangely placed.

Sum dood works India (*** 28), with The Pinnacle Face obvious in the background.
India

Pharos Back Wall

*** Lamplighter 78m 14 (OS)
From me it only earned a third star after a repeat ascent. The easiest thing up the intimidating back wall of the Pharos. 1) (30m 13) Mostly harmless rambling diagonally up the wall, with a few nice steep moves gaining the awesome belay ledge. 2) (*** 30m 14) Steep and exposed with many moves which are quite tough for the grade - I must say I could easily be persuaded to upgrade this route! Step up R off ledge past pin, then keep following line of least resistance up and R. You'll eventually reach a 6m offwidth below the 2nd belay, which is absolutely desperate and disgusting (add 3 grades and subtract 2 stars if you do it this way!) - do the beautiful steep moves 3m R instead! 3) I always finish up Lady Dihedral, the roof on Lamplighter looks gross!

Lamplighter - Adam cruising the only tricky bit on pitch 1, just before the great belay ledge. In the background, the pinnacle (hence the name Pinnacle Face!) is obvious from this angle - Tiptoe Ridge belays on top of it!
Lamplighter (** 78m 14), Arapiles

** Lady Dihedral 26m 15 (OS)
I've only done the 3rd pitch, starting from Lamplighter's 2nd belay. Nice wall, then beautiful positions to step L out under the roof. (Alternatively, step L from the belay and up the easy airy slabby arete to the roof). Step R over the roof with plenty of exposure, then up pleasant corner. Rap 40m off chains about 15m R of the top out.

Lamplighter - Nicola making the surprisingly overhung and excellently exposed 2nd pitch look easy! Be sure to avoid that offwidth on the right, its desperate and adds a few grades to the route!
Lamplighter's brilliant second pitch, Mt Arapiles

Lamplighter's brilliant second pitch, Mt Arapiles

� 1998-2005 Will