Pharos Gully

The Word: Another secluded Araps gully chock full of one pitch gems.
The Crag Classic: Yesterday (26)
The Hidden Gem: Huey (18)
Sun/shade: Most routes have a sunny morning aspect, well sheltered from the wind.
Wet weather options: Not really. Several routes are steep enough to withstand light rain but you and your gear will get wet.

Style & Length of Climbs: Vertical, 15-40m
Available Grades; Best Grades:

The Details:

Access: 12-15min walk from the Pines. Head up the gully just R of the Pharos.

Descent(s): Lots of rap points, one rope will do for most of them.

The Arapiles escarpment, with The Pharos Gully marked at centre.
Araps R

Described L to R.

Lower Yesterday Gully

At the base of the Pharos Gully is the Ethereal Buttress, on your right as you walk in. Head around the R side of this buttress and the following routes appear about 40m up.

** Snow Blind 18m 23 (TR)
Either a bloody hard 23, or I was more trashed at the end of the weekend than I realised. The silly stemming at the start detracts. Once at the FH, pull up R along the undercling flake (dubious trad gear, recently supplemented with a RB), to a desperate crux to the end of the flake. Don't expect any favours up the strenuous flake, then a roof move at the top awaits to finish you off (assuming you got this far!). DRB.

** In Lemon Butter 15m 22 (OS)
Sweet. The crux is down low, well protected and easily read. The face above, while not technically as difficult, was much closer to sending me flying, with sustained thin balancy moves and fiddly (although very good) small pro. In the end, with about 4m of hard climbing left I abandoned efforts to keep sewing it up and ran it out to the DRB!

� 1998-2004 Will