Paint Tool Primer
If you've ever struggled to paint a 2-inch window frame with a 4-inch brush, you know the frustration of using the wrong painting tool. Not only can you botch woodwork, but you can leave glossy paint marks on walls. Sizing up your paint and brush needs will make your tools work for you, instead of against you.

The Basics
You don't need a lot of paint equipment, and chances are you already own some. It only takes a few brushes and rollers, a paint tray or 5-gallon bucket, a mixing stick, a 6-foot stepladder, drop cloths, a paint shield, masking tape, and a scraper. Assuming the prep work is done, this short list contains everything you'll need. Of course there are sprayers, electric mixers, and other labor-saving devices you might want to consider later. But for now, you have the basics.

Brushes
A homeowner can get by with three brushes--a 2-inch sash brush, a 2-inch trim brush and a 3-inch flat brush.

2-inch sash brush: Angled to reach into corners, around window sashes.
2-inch trim brush: Just right for woodwork and trim.
3-inch flat brush: Ideal for corners and "cutting in" the top of a wall where it meets the ceiling. This brush also gets used on doors, walls and ceilings.

In addition to these, you might want to add a 4-inch-wide flat brush for large, open areas, mainly walls and ceilings.

The wider the brush, the bigger the area to cover. Brush sizes start at half-inch wide and go to 6 inches, with natural or synthetic bristles. Natural bristles are made of animal hair and should be used with oil-based paint; synthetic bristles are made from nylon and polyester and should be used to apply water-based paint. Buy the most-expensive brush that you can afford. It will be with you for a good long time, if you take proper care of it.

New brushes need to be broken in before using, so sweep them back and forth across your palm, pressing down hard to loosen any weak bristles. Give the bristles a solid pull, too. A good brush won't lose its bristles if you give them a tug. Instead, they will be thick, strong, and plentiful, with a reinforced ferrule made of rust-resistant metal.
Rollers
A standard 9-inch roller is a must for doing large, flat areas. Pick up a roller and hold it by the handle. The grip should feel good in your hand. The roller cage should spin easily, without a lot of friction. If your house has vaulted ceilings or high walls, you'll want an extension pole that screws into the end of the handle. Like brushes, you only need three rollers for most interior painting jobs: the 9-inch, a 3-inch trim roller (for narrow spaces), and a corner roller.

For water-base paint, use synthetic roller covers with plastic centers. Be sure to avoid cardboard centers with these paints, unless you want them to decompose in the water. For oil-based paints, wool or mohair covers are preferable. Stick with better-quality roller covers; they shed fewer fibers, so you won't be picking strands out of wet paint. Most household painting jobs can be done with a short, 3/8-inch nap. This height nap covers visible blemishes on flat surfaces. For textured surfaces, go with a taller 1-inch nap. Use a ?-inch nap on smooth walls and ceilings.

Roller covers need to be broken in too. When you slip a new cover on the roller, run your hands over it to raise the nap. New covers should also be prepped before painting: Run covers under water for latex; dip rollers in mineral spirits for oil-base. Then squeeze out excess solvent before rolling it in paint.

Extras
Slender rollers, sometimes called "weenies," are handy for reaching behind radiators, water heaters, appliances, or stairway railings. An inexpensive paint pad is another option for hard-to-reach places. The short nap on paint pads leaves no brush marks, so they can be used in place of a roller on larger surfaces. They spread paint thinner than rollers, however, so you may need a second coat in these spots. Smaller pads are well suited to fine or thin portions of wood trim.