| Photographing the Aurora |
Aurora displays are caused by charged particles from the sun arriving at the earth, being directed towards the polar regions by the magnetic field, and reacting with the earth�s upper atmosphere. These displays can be photographed quite easily. The equipment for aurora photography is relatively simple compared to other forms of astrophotography. -You need a camera with the ability to take long exposures. A camera that does not use battery power to keep the shutter open is a plus, as long exposures can drain a battery quickly. -A fast (f2 or faster) wideangle lens (35mm or wider) is preferrable, as the exposures will be shorter to expose the film properly, and using a wide angle lens lets you capture more of the aurora in the frame, and choose many different framing options for your photos. -Fast (high ISO rating) film. I prefer Fuji NPZ 800 speed color print film. (I have just bought a digital camera that has the potential for aurora photography, but I have not had the opportunity to try it as of yet.) -A cable release to open and close the shutter without shaking the camera. -A tripod. -Lots of patience! Aurora activity is notoriously difficult to predict. I�ve spent many a night waiting for a forecasted display that never developed. I usually update my Aurora Monitor software each evening to check the indices for possible activity, but there are a few different locations on the world wide web that one can check to get generalized predictions without buying software (see the links page ). If it looks like there may be a display (and the weather is cooperating), I grab my equipment and go! For the best view, pick a location with low horizons and no light pollution. Generally I arrive at the dark sky site just before dusk, set up my camera, and look for framing options for my photos (a tree, barn, mountain,or lake makes for nice balance and gives the photo some perspective). Then the waiting begins. Deciding how long to expose the film is always a bit of a guessing game. It all depends on the film you use, the brightness of the display, and the widest aperture setting you have. I find trial and error is the best way to move along the learning curve. Always take several photographs, varying the exposure times, to improve the chances of getting at least some good photos. You will find that film will bring out the colors of an aurora, even if your eyes see only ghostly white. Writing down notes or speaking into a personal recorder about your exposures, and comparing them to the resulting photos, is a good way to learn quicky. Example: A display appears on the northern horizon, reaching maybe 30 degrees elevation. The display is colorless, and a little brighter than the Milky Way. Using 800 speed film, a 28mm f1.8 (set wide open at f1.8) wideangle lens, my exposure times would range from 15 or 20 seconds to near 50 or 60 seconds. That�s about all I can relate to you about aurora photography. The rest is up to you. Just keep taking photographs, learn from your mistakes, and have fun! Also, remember to enjoy the display while you are photographing it! Clear skies to you! Wade |
| (brief and basic) |
| I got a couple of chances to try my digital camera (Canon Digital Rebel) on the aurora in late July of 2004. It seems to work quite well, and the same above guidelines I would recommend for digital cameras as well as film. The only difference is that digital aurora photos seem to have 'noise' in them, and I use a photo program like Adobe Photoshop to remove the hot pixels. |