MOVING YOUR HAMMOND
                                                                                                 by Rick Harris
 

Yesterday And Today

Whether by innuendo or a spec from the manual, it seems you can no longer read anything about the Hammond B-3 without that notorious reference to its weight. (And there�s plenty more of that here.) In view of the present keyboard environment, perhaps that�s as it should be. Certainly you can�t just place it in a neat carpet-covered case and carry it along side you like one of the miracle midiboards of today. So for the newcomer, the thought of moving a B-3 quickly squashes any dream of gigging live with the real thing. It can be a bit disheartening.

For well over a decade, we have been bombarded with portable synths, samplers, and quick fixes for nearly any sound imaginable. But still, we find ourselves constantly reaching for those recordings of the 60s and 70s, listening for the subtly distinctive difference between the latest microchip and those locomotives they had to lug into the studio. The resurrected interest in the B-3 was earned by the real sound coming from the real thing. At 310+ pounds, the B-3 is indeed heavy, but so is the sound and experience of playing one. If you are a true B-3 lover, then the question is not IF you should move it, but how.

Convenience vs. Nostalgia

Many �chop� their B-3 to make moving it more manageable. �Chopping� or �portablizing� usually involves some sort of permanent modification to the cabinet. This may be as simple as removing the legs and installing handles on the sides, or as elaborate as removing everything that isn�t wood and fabricating a lighter-weight closure of your own. Many Hammond service providers specialize in this sort of modification. While the motivation for a �chop� mod is easy enough to understand, I have to cringe just a bit when I think about it. While the essence is still there, there is something elusively woeful about not seeing that heavy wooden box on four legs. The advantage is: You get the original sound of the B-3 where you want it with a minimum of effort, and it takes up less space than a stock B-3. The disadvantage is: Along with the discarded wood goes a good deal of the majesty and unmistakable identity of the renowned face that goes with that coveted voice. It�s of less vintage. It no longer looks like a B-3, and arguably, it no longer is one.

By now, you may have figured out where I�m coming from. When I see a B-3 sitting on a stage among other keyboards, I still perceive it as a musical symbol of supreme authority and power. Perhaps similiar sentiment was felt in early post harmonium days. But this is now and movement of the B-3 is still very managable. Now to get back on good terms with those who have chopped; Although any saw-toting fool that comes within 15 feet of my B-3 does so at their own risk, I would be remiss if I didn�t mention this concession: If I were forced by circumstances to make the dreadful choice between chop and play, or, don�t chop/don�t play, I would have to ch.. ..well, you know, ...I�d just do it.

If you�ve decided to go the chopped route, then you are likely a full time player who carries their B-3 with them like their wallet. However, if you�re one that prefers the unmistakable look and feel of the original in all its glory, read on.

Foolishness and Fate

Let me get a few important details out of the way right up front. To even consider the notion of moving any console Hammond organ without some sort of dedicated moving equipment is not only foolish, but an invitation to serious personal injury and/or damaged equipment. Aside from their weight, B-3s are awkward and top heavy. Don�t blame the engineers and designers. Originally these fascinating creatures (the B-3s, not the designers) were typically meant to be permanently placed in the living room or perhaps a recital hall. The guys on the drawing board had no way of knowing B-3s would be carted several times a weekend up and down stairs or sitting in a truck during sub-zero temps any more than knowing that players would regularly drive amplifier tubes to hurts-so-good distortion.

Although this article focuses on the B-3, the tips and techniques can be easily adapted to most organs. There are probably many different preferences on this subject, but I will tell you only what I can draw from my own experience.

The Roll-Or-Kari (Manna From The Gods)

For constantly moving on a flat, level surface, most any 4 wheel hardwood dolly will do. But in order to make your B-3 truly mobile, you�ll need a pair of Roll-Or-Kari dollies. You�ll be surprised how many times you thank yourself.

After the Leslie speaker, the Roll-Or-Kari dollies are probably the B-3�s next best friend. Originally called R-O-K Dual Trucks, this utility pair is by far the best investment I�ve ever made. I purchased them in the mid sixties for around $100. Though current price has more than tripled, I wouldn�t hesitate to purchase a new pair if something happened to mine. These nifty devices are well-designed and portable enough to tuck out of the way during a performance. They are steel reinforced wooden affairs that stand about 33 inches high. They have a steel "L" shaped plate at the bottom. The horizontal part of the L slides under each side of the organ. There are several widths so if you�re moving any of the B cabinet styles (the open bottom, four legged models) be sure to specify the extra width. The two dollies with the organ sandwiched between are then securely fastened together by means of four webbed straps; one on each side of the top and bottom. After straps are securely snugged and locked, the user can then step down on a cleverly designed handlebar for each dolly to lift and mobilize the organ. When the wheels are engaged, the organ is free to be pushed about. In the un-elevated position, the organ is stationary. Two convenient handles on each dolly pivot out to a horizontal position for lifting the load across thresholds or other obstacles; (thus the name �Roll-Or-Kari�). They�re durable. I have used mine hundreds of times and they are still workhorses. They�re virtually maintenance-free and have paid for themselves over and over again. Perhaps their best attribute is that they take the awkwardness out of moving awkward items. Though the manufacturer may not approve, I have moved everything from pianos to deep freezers with these things. They can make a bad day good.

Protecting The Goods

The first thing you have to consider when preparing to move your Hammond is to protect the heart and soul of it all, the tone generator. Hammond was prudent enough to provide an easy way to accomplish this. The Hammond generator �floats� suspended by springs. This design was intended to prevent the hum of the motor and rotating tonewheels from being transferred through the rest of the cabinet. Locking it down is a very simple process but difficult to describe without graphics. On the bottom of each generator shelf there are four identical metal sleeves held in place by a 1 5/8� long bolt. The metal sleeves have a large washer-like flange molded to one end. A two dimensional side view would look like an inverted T. A slender bolt runs through the center of the sleeve and protrudes about 1 3/8� out the other side to fasten to the generator assembly. In the normal unlocked position, the wide flange is at the bottom. To lock down the generator, use a 5/16 nut driver, socket or an adjustable wrench to loosen the bolt, remove it and invert the �T� sleeve so that the flat, flange part is at the top. Replace the sleeve and bolt and tighten it hand tight. Repeat this for the other three. Use your nut driver or socket to snug, but don�t overtighten. This pulls the generator down securely against the shelf so that it doesn�t flop all around and bang against things during moving. For a B-3 or other B models just look under the organ and there they are. For A-100s, C-3s, and spinets, removal of the back is necessary to gain access. The generator shelf is in the center of the organ and the locking bolts are underneath the shelf. Just one more thing-- unless the organ is played in a very quiet environment, there is really no reason to ever unlock the generator. The sound is barely audible and everything will function harmlessly if you leave it in the locked position.

The Body Count

At this point, you will need to examine some priorities such as sacrificing valued life-long relationships in exchange for getting the B-3 there. If you�ve been through this frequently, then you�re already familiar with phrases like �Who�s calling, ..er ...he�s out of town for the weekend.� Or comments from your spouse like �What ever happened to all those guys you used to hang around with?� Your pride suffers, but don�t let it get to you. You still have a weapon in your emotional toolbox that you�re just waiting to unleash on them; The 3 Bs of the B-3: Bribes, Bartering and Begging. If by chance you�re still left in desperation, then there is only one alternative.

Rolling Your Own

Over the years, I�ve had help most of the time. But in moments of desperation, cliches become welcome cognitions. In this case-- where there�s a will, there�s a way. My B-3 sits on a ground-level room ready to play. I can have it in the van ready to roll in 15 minutes with only my own effort. That�s right, one person. The following technique involves moving the organ by yourself. I don�t necessarily recommend this, but I feel that adapting this method to several helpers takes up far less space here than to describe separate scenarios for two people, three people, etc. There are a couple of common-sense guidelines to determine if you can move the B-3 by yourself. Certainly you cannot ascend or descend a stairway. (More about that later). You can, however, manage two or three steps. You cannot roll the organ over gravel or sod; it must be carried by at least two people. The general rule is: if there�s any carrying to be done, you�d better get on the phone.

The Thick Of It

OK, here we go. You�ve got everything disconnected and the generator locked down. Hopefully, you�re going to protect the organ with some sort of fitted blanket. Good. Don�t put it on yet. Line up each dolly with the side of the organ. You want the bulk of the weight to be centered on the dollies. For non-Bs or spinets you want them a bit closer to the rear of the organ, but under no circumstances should the rail of the dolly extend beyond the back of the organ. When you�re sure the dollies are lined up exactly where you want them, put your blanket on. Go to one side of the organ, lift about one inch and kick the bottom of the dolly completely in. If it�s a B, check to make sure both legs now rest centered on the plate. Do the same to the other side. Fasten the straps to the other dolly and pull until snug. There is a latching device on each strap that enables you to tighten the straps securely. Do not over tighten. The object is to have the straps tight enough so as not to let either dollie slide out during moving, but not so tight that it overly stresses the wooden structure of the cabinet. (Incidentally, any time you plan to let the organ sit on the dollies overnight or longer, it�s a good idea to loosen the straps. Don�t forget to retighten them before moving.) Step down on the handlebar on each side until locked into position. The organ should now be mobile.

Now you need to get it from where it is to the van or truck, which should be parked on, or as near as possible to the level where you are (Duh!). Obviously, it�s going to take more time if you�re alone. A B-3 fills up most doorways. While moving over a threshold, this means lifting one side over first and then taking another route �around� or crawling over top the organ to the other side and lifting that side over. While generally rolling the organ between any two points, it�s a matter of preference whether you push or pull. I found it slightly easier to guide by pushing.

Okay, you�ve made it to the truck or van and hopefully you and the organ are still in one piece. There are a few things that bear mentioning here. If you�re going into the side door of a utility type van, you will be rolling perpendicular to a ribbed floor. The laws of physics dictate that the wheels are going to get stuck between the ribs. Unless you want to beat your B-3 to death, you must cover that portion of the van floor with a piece of plywood or some other smooth surface. If you�re going into the back of the van this shouldn�t be a problem. The back of a pickup however, does present a similar problem. You have a space between the folded-down tailgate and the truck bed. Custom cut a length of wood to fill it.

Now the serious lifting begins. I don�t mean to beat this subject to death, but if there is only one message that should come from this article this may be it. We�ve all heard it, some of us practice it, and some of those that don�t are destined to walk around for the rest of their lives complaining about the doctor that removed the ruptured disk. Listen carefully -- Close your eyes, click your heels together three times and repeat after me...

    Lift with your legs, NOT with your back!
    Lift with your legs, NOT with your back!
    Lift with your legs, NOT with your back!

Got it? Okay. The tailgate of a pickup is substantially higher than the side or rear of a van so be forewarned of the extra effort involved. The organ should be lined up at a 90 degree angle to the tailgate or open doorway. There are two straight horizontal steel bars near the bottom of the dolly. On the side nearest the van or truck, squat, and with one hand grab whichever straight bar is most comfortable. With the other hand, grasp the dolly handle on your side. Keeping your back straight, lift to the level of the bed and pull forward to place the wheels on the surface of the bed or tailgate. Pull as far forward as possible. When you�re sure the organ is secure in its present position, move around to the other side. With both hands, grasp one of the lower (straight) bars, squat, and while keeping your back straight, lift until the organ is level and push it forward to the desired position. Ahhh!!

If you�ve loaded into the side door of a van, the seats should provide adequate bracing for the organ in the event of sudden braking. If you�ve loaded into the rear of a van, the organ should be the first item in and pushed up against the seats. Same with a pickup, move completely forward against the front part of the bed near the cab. All of this accomplishes two things during a sudden stop: it prevents the top heavy Hammond from tumbling forward on its face, and prevents a 300+ pound load from sliding and smashing into the back of you or your drummer. Serious road accidents with a Hammond are something I�ve had experience with, but I�ll reserve them for another time.

The Leslie

I�m talking about a 122, 145, or similar all wood cabinet model commonly used with the Hammond. The originals came with a shipping skid attached to the bottom of the cabinet. If yours has one, don�t remove it. It absorbs the inevitable corner blows and provides a handy place to grasp during moving. Since this is still a one person operation, you�ll need a four-wheeled flat dolly roughly the same size as the bottom of the cabinet. Line the dolly up with the side of the cabinet and tilt the cabinet forward about 35 degrees. With your foot, push the dolly underneath. Pivot the Leslie on the edge of the dolly back toward you and slide it until centered underneath. You cannot push it over obstacles. From the bottom, you�ll need to lift the leading end of the dolly over the obstacle. Pull, and the other end should roll over fine. For loading, push the Leslie about halfway off the dolly, pivot it back toward you, and roll forward until the edge of the van floor or tailgate meets up with the center or some portion of the bottom of the Leslie. This is the pivoting point for leveling the cabinet and pushing it the rest of the way in. If you use pedals and bench, turn the bench upside down taking precautions that the contents (toothbrush, hand tools, song lists, pop-tarts, etc.) don�t fall out, and slide it in. The pedalboard, if placed flat, would take up an impractical amount of cargo room -- so stand it up on the wood end and wedge it between the organ and seats, or the organ and Leslie, or two other stable pieces of equipment. The contacts of the pedal board are now pretty vulnerable, so take that into consideration while stacking other equipment that could fall and damage them.

Stairways (Payment for the Manna)

While the task of moving a B-3 up or down a stairway should be taken seriously, there is no reason for it to provoke panic. You need 4 able and sober bodies. Not 3, not 5. (3 is not enough, and the 5th gets in the way.) Whenever a stairway comes into view, keep a close eye on your help. They have an uncanny tendency to head for fire exits or other means of escape. Simply assemble them and explain that you have read this article. (Please don�t mention my name). Not to over simplify, but the better each of the four do their job, the easier it is for the other three to do theirs. Regardless of what technique you eventually develop, you will discover one factor that always remains constant: the more the organ is kept level, the easier the move will be for all. The exception, as you will see below, is at the very beginning and end of the stairway. The two high end people will struggle with the awkwardness. Until you get the hang of it, your feet will always seem to be exactly where you need to set the organ on the step. The two on the bottom will do most of the lifting and leveling. Regardless what part you take, you will probably struggle with some verbal abuse. The procedure described is for ascending a stairway. For descending, the procedure is (you guessed it), ascending in reverse. Everyone ready? Here we go.

The "high ends" should take the organ to the second or third step while leaving low end wheels on ground level. The low ends then get �under� the dolly handles and lift to shoulder height maintaining that position. The object is to keep the organ relatively level, not for the sake of the organ but for the sake of the movers. This is a one step at a time process. The high ends, standing one step above where the organ rests, lifts to their step, rests the organ there, advances one step, lifts to their step, rests the organ there, etc. For each step, the high ends call the cue. Have a pre-arranged plan to take a break when the signal is given by any one. If a rest is needed and the organ is set down, it is of course going to assume the angle (pitch) of the stairs so precautions should be taken. At this point, ignore any comments such as �Why didn�t you learn to play the #&*!# harmonica?� or �I knew I hated you, now I remember why.� When the low ends are within two or three steps from the top, they can adjust the handles from shoulder height to whatever is comfortable to keep the organ level, push forward and finish.

Which end is the most work? At first it sounds like the low end but you may be surprised. Once the shoulder height is assumed, you�re working with the arm in a fully bent and locked position. The only movement is then with the legs. So, although you are continually supporting bulk weight, if your back is erect this should be relatively comfortable. On the other end, the top ends are doing all the awkward movements -- re-adjusting, maneuvering, and uttering phrases that are offensive to accepted standards of decency. It�s somewhat difficult for the high ends to keep a straight back. Generally, the taller people should be on the low end.

I�m not going to go into a bunch of detail about moving Leslies up or down a stairway. Basically it�s the same as any piece of furniture and should be carried. The shipping skid mentioned earlier helps a lot. If you move it regularly however, I would recommend a traditional two wheel appliance dolly which makes stairways much easier. In this case it can be pulled by the person on top and �boosted� by the bottom person. With the help of my brother I adapted an ordinary beverage dolly by welding a U-shaped bracket to the dolly to keep the Leslie from sliding sideways, and then attaching a seat belt to hold it. Crude but cheap, and it works.

Obviously, every scenero is different. This is simply meant as a starting point for those who have made the assumption that they could never get a real B-3 to the gig. As with any endeavor, the more you do it the more comfortable you will become, and the more you will develop your own short-cuts to make things just a bit easier.

With a procedure in place and using proper equipment, moving the B-3 doesn�t have to be nearly the chore one is led to believe. Yes, it is heavy, and yes, it involves a considerable amount of work. But when you�re on a break, and from the back of the auditorium, dance hall, gymnasium, night club, or farm field you glance up at that figure on the stage, ...it somehow redeems itself.

After all that lifting I thought I would wrap up with something a bit lighter. For the initiated, you�ll know where I come from.

Common Comments

(while trying to recruit help):

  • "Sorry, I hurt my back yesterday.�
  • �...be right over. You buy�n th� beer?�
  • --click-- (...dialtone)
  • (from spouse) �Call both of your friends.�

While moving the B-3 on stairs standing in a pool of sweat:

  • �Is this the same one we moved last week? It seems heavier.�
  • (decending) "If the Hammond�s as tough as you say, let�s just let it go.�
  • �Couldn�t you have just made a tape or something?�

While moving the Leslie:

  • �What is this, some kinda heater?�
  • �Nice wood.�
  • �If I could just find a place to get a gri...WHOOH! I CAN�T GRAB IT!!"

After the gig:

  • �Why don�t ya just leave it here �til tommorow?�
  • (some guy after 11 beers) �I useta work fer a moooovin compny. Lemme jst cener it on m�back..�
  • (same guy shouting to crowd) "This guy needs a van to move his ORGAN. Wish I had that problem!�
  • (Viewing the organ with blanket and dollies) �Who�s in there?� (sign of the cross) �May they rest in peace.�

      :) Happy moving.

 

My sincere thanks to HamTekker Rick Harris for this excellent article!

                            

 

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