William Bartram , Everglades, Alligators, Pelican, Directory

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On Phillippi River*

Sarasota County in the Great State of Florida has a "mini-Everglades" within its boundaries. As with theEverglades , the draining of Phillippi Creek began in the 1920's as real estate agents began to offer properties that were as likely as not to be under water at least some parts of the year.

In surveying the swamps and bog-lands of the area it became obvious that if Sarasota was to grow, something had to be done to provide drainage from the great expanse of land that lay to the East of Sarasota Bay. A natural drainage system already existed with the muck lands oozing a trickle of water along Phillippi Creek in dry times and providing a rush of water to the Bay during the rainy season which last from May til September. Obviously, this was inadequate if the area was to be developed. As with the Everglades, drainage ditches were envisioned, but first a deep cut had to be made connecting the muck lands and the creek's course. And once made, the trench had to be stabilized to ensure that Nature would not recover from this affront of man.

If you take a canoe or kayak up the creek from its opening into Sarasota Bay you see the results of bureaucratic spiderwebs of the mind. One of the first evidence; signs posted that the water is dangerous and no swimming is allowed, or perhaps if you had paddled down from the Bayfront park past Hudson's bayou you would have seen the sign that the water's contaminated with lead. Nevermind, that homeowners who pay premium for water-front lots and easy access to the bay and Gulf have numerous boats at dock, or countless fishermen take snook, mullet and whatever is running at the time from these waters.

The second evidence of bumbling is the abandonment of the water's edge to an intrusion of plants that capture silt and will eventually force "official" action; that is dredging. Nature will prevail and water plants allied with those on shore will at first slow and eventually stop the rush of water on the creek. So while the powers-that-be say, they have no intent to dredge the creek, when the next major water bearing storm (it need not be a hurricane) dumps six or more inches of water onto the muck lands, the cascade of water will focus attention on the lack of planning and force action.

As you continue up Phillippi creek, the evidence of man's presence is everywhere. Plastic bottles, pieces of lumber, concrete blocks, oil drums, tires, bicycles, and other items too numerous to be identified. Yet the most pronounced sign of "public policy" is the waste from just such institutions. A yellow, yield right of way lays partially submerged, not far away, a traffic cone and then almost unidentifiable, a porta-potty lies just beneath the surface. (Could this be the source of the fecal coliform that have been identified in the creek?) At approaches to the bridges if you are observant you will see signs calling for "no-wake"; they're submerged ^� perhaps as a reminder to the fish.

The Stormwater Management folks are pressed into action about once a year. Using an airboat to navigate the creek, they spread herbicides along some of the banks. Then when a good rain sends islands of plaited together plant material down stream, they are called into action again, this time to drag flotsam away from bridge pilings to prevent Nature from building a natural dam.

The Stormwater folks don't deserve all the abuse. No there's plenty of blame to go around.

When the road departments got their heads together and decided to cross the creek with numerous bridges, economy was their first consideration. How else do you explain a down-stream bridge that is barely five feet above water surface in low water. Whatever were they thinking when they built an impediment to water's flow in a constricted area. Flooding will occur, but that's not their problem.

Upstream they paved the creek's bottom so that the flow of water over the concrete would sweep the sand away. Sounds like a good idea until you consider that an extension of this plan would be to just provide tunnels and pipes from the muck lands to the bay. If they do that, some smart developer can then build right over the creek. Of course that's nonsense but their actions are nonsensical as well.

If you visit with the Stormwater folks asking why the creek is in such deplorable shape and why they don't encourage recreational use of the waters, you may hear the following:

a) The creek's too shallow, its silted in (However, I have kayaked some six or so miles of the creek and the only problem I have encountered is where the highway department concreted the creek bed underneath the bridge at McIntosh.)
b) Homeowners along the creek like it this way and would complain. (Perhaps they like to watch the flotsam and jetsam that moves past their diningroom windows. That's better than an occasional nature enthusiast?)
c) Recreational users will foul the area, leaving trash. (It really can't get any worse than it is!)
d) The pretty yellow flowers growing along the bank stabilize the soil and prevent erosion. If people used the creek, they would trample the plants. (Never-mind that the predominant growth in and along the creek is water plants, and that the creek is becoming silted in, not from locally originated sand and muck but from developers up stream.)

If you ask why they haven't cleaned up the creek, you get the answer that they are sooo busy. (Fact of the matter is that they no longer do the hard work of cleaning the creek ^� they contract it out).

Where does this leave us and what corrective action should be taken?
a) Stop further development in the muck lands to the east of the city of Sarasota.
b) Remove the concrete blocks, broken concrete and large boulders that have been placed along the shore line by the county, developers and home owners.
c) Dredge a channel that rather than a straight line, has gentle curves. The sweep of the water will keep the bed free of debris, accumulated spoil in the bends can be more efficiently and economically removed by occasional dredging.
d) Remove the concrete that has been placed under the bridges.
e) Open up the creek to more recreational use. At present homeowners have access to the creek and there is one public landing on the creek. If a coordinated effort is made, at each point where a street ends at the creek, access can and should be provided. The Church at the McIntosh bridge might permit access to the creek. Where stormwater right-of-ways exist, the public-owned land provides an entry. At Riverview High School, several launching sites are possible and at the crossing of the Tamiami Trail (US 41), the county has a park from which to put you oars in the water. All of the above need improvement, but that's not a big deal. In some cases, a load of sand dumped at the water's edge and spread judiciously would provide all that is needed.
f) Encourage people to use this natural resource. It's a nature preserve that lies in the heart of Sarasota. Those using boats or water craft with motors should be cautioned about disturbing the peace and quiet of the area, in particular the County should stop using its airboat on the creek.
g) Hold the county employees to a high standard of performance, ensuring that the creek is cleaned, and remains clean.

If the above are done, the benefits will be two fold; Sarasota Bay will be a cleaner more hospitable area, and Phillippi Creek will be a resource rather than a sewer.

Is the creek worth saving, you may ask? On a recent outing, I saw numerous schools of mullet, the largest of which seems to have taken a liking to the Tuttle Avenue bridge and on a trip down and back up the creek, I disturbed their slumbers as shown by a wild explosion of water as they sought refuge from my kayak. What I assume to be an alligator gar of about three feet in length just watched as I paddled past, showing no sign of being concerned. Under the Weber Street bridge, a fisherman hauled in a large snook, and at the bay a young man with a casting net was cussing the oysters in the area as they became entangled in his net. Never-mind that he had some ten or so nice mullet as a reward for his efforts. I stopped and asked a pair who were running their crab traps, what fish it was that seemed to be feeding in schools at the surface, their dorsal fin upright like a single finger pointing out of the water. They said they were mullet feeding on the surface, I don't know if their answer was the right one.

A splash calls you attention to a turtle that is just now following a companion into the water. After a minute or so, the twin nostrils will emerge giving the only evidence of their presence. But turtles are not the only things that go splash. A neighbor warned me of a six foot alligator that was lurking in a culvert area. Try as I might, I did not see him, but on my way back up the creek. I did see one sunning on a lawn close to the Bee Ridge bridge. This one is certainly nine feet long with a body larger than that of a 250 pound man. You can imagine who would win in a struggle, especially in the alligator's elements. As I paddled by, it raised up and slid silently into the water. Where it went I don't know and I didn't bother to look back to see if he returned to his spot in the sun.

As William Bartram told in his journal; Travels, alligators are not particularly interested in working for their daily fare. On the tidal front, where the creek flow is balanced by the rising tide, debris of all sorts accumulate. Fish caught in this change from salt to fresh water appear to be confused and I spied one mullet swimming in a slow circle. Most likely it was the lack of oxygen in the water that caused its distress. So, you can see how easy it would be for Mr. Alligator to just help himself to the morning meal with a minimum of effort.

A pair of ospreys gave their shrill cry as if to warn me that I was encroaching on their territory, but they flew on down the creek, well above the tree tops. Then they encountered a lone one of their species and with no uncertain meaning to their advance ushered him/her away from their area. In a similar fashion a pair of white egrets had a grey crane on the run, attention being called to the fray by the cranes cry of distress. The smaller birds obviously had the advantage and gave no quarter. With all the "nature" that is to be seen along Phillippi Creek, you have to marvel at the way in which the wild life has adjusted to man's being.

The most obvious sign of adaptation is the way in which this most ugly bird, the wood stork, has accepted man. While it is most graceful and beautiful in flight, once on the ground, you are struck with its similarity to a turkey vulture. The bald head appears almost evil. The bird has other redeeming characteristics however, has developed a talent for sitting on its butt (not unlike some people.) By rocking backward and placing its tail feathers on the ground the bird takes a three point stance with feet planted on the ground, knees bent. Most peculiar. Perhaps to make amends for its appearance, it is one of the most domesticated of wild birds. A group of at least fifteen, patiently await their evening feed by a homeowner who lives on the creek. The wood stork and white egrets have adapted very well and it is said they have a particular liking for dog food and weiners.

The latest kayak trip took about four hours covering at least eight miles (four down stream and four up). On the way, I spotted one discarded bike, two no-wake signs submerged in the water, one floating pumpkin, a boat fender, a fishing lure that had not been used (judging from the fact there was no line or leader attached), a soccer ball, many pieces of wood of all descriptions from small scraps to pieces ten feet long or longer, plastic cups, bottles, what appeared to be an old oil drum and lots of weeds and grass that had broken away from their moorings and were drifting down stream on the way to Sarasota Bay.

Yes, Sarasota has a mini-Everglades in its own backyard. And, just like the Everglades, man's hand is evident. And, just like the Everglades, something needs to be done. It's time the County of Sarasota cleaned up its act and Phillippi Creek. We who enjoy the water environment of Florida can and should help. "We have met the enemy and it is us." Pogo

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* Phillippi River(?) Indeed! This is Phillippi creek where the 10,000 year old Indian called Phillippi Man was discovered some 75 years ago! By no stretch of the imagination does this trickle of water from the muck lands to Sarasota Bay resemble a river. There are no cojoining streams, creeks, brooks, streams, branches, criks, or rivulets. The source of water is not from springs, but instead is a slow seepage from the sand and muck which is added to by runoff from the saturated soil and paved surfaces.

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Other nature sites:
Grizzly Adams and his bear

William Bartram's Alegators (Alligator)

Ashfall, Nebraska's unsung park

William Bartram -naturalist

James H. Cook's Nebraska

All about crows

Bartram's crow (Jim)

Snowy white egrets

Everglades, River of Grass

How to catch a fish

Paddlefish

Fothergill, Bartram's friend

Ben Franklin's ode to a dead squirrel

Earl Frieden, the big frog

Up the Missouri with Audubon

Indians

The Jackdaw of Rheims

Missouri River, the Big Muddy

"There for the Taking"

Fiction - Mound Building Indians

Exploration of Indian Mounds

A Mullet is a bird (?)

Jim Cook's bear. A grizzly story.

Pelican

Natural medicines - William Bartram

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