Academical Dress in the United States of America
Just prior to the beginning of the twentieth century a movement arose in the USA for caps and gowns to be worn at graduation- or commencement ceremonies as they are generally called.(1) In 1893 a regulatory Inter-collegiate Commission was established, which in 1895 published a uniform code for American universities,(2) a very necessary thing when even then there were hundreds of degree-conferring institutions. There are distinct styles of gowns and hoods for the degrees of bachelor, master and doctor. The square cap remains.
Some universities, most notably Harvard, have chosen to remain outside the system.(3) However, it is now generally possible to identify the university (by the colour of the hood lining), the department (by the colour of the edging of the cowl or hood), and the degree (by the size and shape of the gown and hood). Bachelor's and master's wear gowns of Oxford type, with that of the bachelor being of the Bachelor of Arts degree, and that of the master's being that of the Master of Arts.(4) Doctor's gowns are of the Oxford type, and have full round open bell-shaped sleeves, faced with velvet.(5) All should fall to 6" above the floor.(6)
Bachelor's and master's wear hoods based upon the pattern of the Oxford Master of Arts simple shape. The masters' hood, at 42", is longer than the 36" for the bachelor's. The doctor's hood is of the Cambridge Master of Arts type (48" long), but with rounded corners.
The hood is made of the same material as the gown, which may now be artificial. It is bound, over the anterior side, with velvet or velveteen of the colour distinctive of the discipline of the wearer's degree- bordered ½" wide on the inside of the hood, and on the outside edged 2" for bachelor's, 3" for master's and 5" for doctor's. The hood however is worn back to front, with the cape portion outwards instead of next to the back where it should be.(7) Honorary doctors occasionally are given a much more elaborate academic dress, sometimes matching or even exceeding those of the chancellors and rectors of British and European universities in decorative details.
There is general agreement as to the discipline colours, but some departures do occur. Until 1960, the border and edging was determined solely by the title of the degree (for example, BSc or BA), without regard to the actual discipline or department in which the degree was earned. Since 1960 however, the department in which the work was done determines the colour, whatever the title of the degree. Since the 1960's other universities, such as Yale, Chicago, and Princeton have tried to break away from the code, with consequent confusion.(8)
American doctors' gown and bonnet
Academical Dress in New Zealand
(1) This was essentially a student movement to provide a senior badge, to dress up commencement week and other exercises, and to overcome differences of dress; Smith, Hugh & Sheard, Kevin, Academic Dress and Insignia of the World (AA Balkema, Cape Town, 1970) vol 1, p 65.
(2) Smith, Hugh & Sheard, Kevin, Academic Dress and Insignia of the World (AA Balkema, Cape Town, 1970) vol 1, p 65.
(3) In the 1960s some 98% adhered to it; Lockmiller, David, Scholars on Parade (Macmillan, Toronto, 1964) 184.
(4) Traditionally, bachelor's robes were of cotton, while those of master's were cotton, silk, or worsted. Synthetic is now more usual; Lockmiller, David, Scholars on Parade (Macmillan, Toronto, 1964) 187-188.
(5) These were traditionally of silk, and are now rayon, dacron, or ribbed silk, or some newer synthetics; Lockmiller, David, Scholars on Parade (Macmillan, Toronto, 1964) 187-188.
(6) Lockmiller, David, Scholars on Parade (Macmillan, Toronto, 1964) 187.
(7) Haycraft, Frank, The Degrees and Hoods of the World's Universities and Colleges revised and edited by Frederick Rogers, Charles Franklyn, George Shaw, Hugh Boyd (5th ed, privately published by WE Baxter Ltd, Lewes, Sussex, 1972, first published 1923) xi by note by Rogers.
(8) For the American academic dress, see Smith, Hugh & Sheard, Kevin, Academic Dress and Insignia of the World (AA Balkema, Cape Town, 1970) vols 2, 3.