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L'Homme Programmé F8a
First climbed in 1982 by Laurent Jacob, this route was a complete shock to the UK dole-boys who went over to Buoux expecting the French to be only any good at steep stamina pitches. The first 7 metres is steep, but thankfully has good spaced finger pockets. This lands you on the sloping shelf, where you can regain your composure for the sustained slab climbing above - don't forget to squeak your boots! The crux slab sequence is detailed in the beta-map. This basically comprises of some tricky smearing to gain a good lay-away, stand on this, and up right to a very good pocket. Above this, mantel onto a ledge, and use some sequential lay-aways to gain the hanging crack, some hidden pockets in the nose and so to the top. ACCESS Due to objections to climbing on La Face Ouest in the past, all the bolts have been removed from this, and many of the other routes nearby. While climbing at a very discrete level seems to be tolerated there now, the current guidebook still lists this area as interdit, and any remaining gear should be viewed with suspision.
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