Brief article about life in Russia

(by eyes of eyewitness)

Last updated 19/03/02

NOTE: I'm not complaining about life by this article...

My American friend has been asked me to make web-page about life in Russia. About lifestyle, etc. He assured me that it would be interesting for many people. So, if you are reading this, that�s true.

I'm afraid that actually nobody knows true situation. We are only able to see some consequences but we can only guess the reasons. The ordinary people are inclined to blame the government and state structures for all disasters. Partly it's true.

Sure, we have parliament, president, constitution & other laws. But there are too many laws, there are contradictions between its. Almost every department doesn't conform to federal law but instructions of its leadership. It gives rise to mess. The officials (starting with president, finishing with some clerk) are endowed such power that they can do despotism with impunity. There are a lot of fuss and trouble, bribery, relation between state officials and illegal business, corruption, chaos in economics, criminality...

A telephone right - that's still the basic law in Russian Federation. Not Constitution, as misinterpret the President and couple of jurists. Just a Telephone Right. What law to talk about if your chief "from up there" is calling to you to do something pass round the law? If you value on your job, you'll obey. There are a few of those who cares about State profit and challenge uncleanly officials.

Government proclaim a "crusade" against coppuption. Well, how are they going to fight against themselves?

Individual businessman is placed in such conditions that some of them prefer to work illegal, or else the registration, license, taxes will eat all stock and gains. The only large monopolies prosper, which are tied with treasures of the soil and supported by big financial groups and government.

About bank system. Transfers go too long. It�s customarily when bank invests current transfer in very profitable business for a few days. Then bank take the money back, does transfer and keep the profit. I�m not specialist in economics. But the only I can say is that the US dollar almost pushed out Ruble as mean of payment. Economics are depending on rate of exchange. Prices are depending, too; but wages � aren�t. I�m afraid, when you�ll read this, all wages shown by me in $ would be less. On January '98 rate was 1:6, now it�s 1:31.

In the beginning of 90�s so-called financial pyramids have been appeared. The most famous of those was MMM. It emitted securities. You could buy it, wait for a few days and sell it back to MMM, having good profit. Many people were involved it this. But one fine day MMM was exhausted. Somebody got profit and many others got loss.

Regular reports about awful crime doesn't shock already - it's habitually... You don't even know whom should you beware of: criminal or police. Policemen can plainly capture you (without reason) and you'll be lucky if just escape with several bruises. The same is the GAI (State Auto Inspection). They usually stop you and accuse of violation, which you haven't done. No way to prove your innocence - situation will be worse. You have to pay penalty at once (cash). See also about auto life.

Oh, this deity of Russian bureaucrat - The Slip Of Paper! If you unfortunately haven�t necessary Paper (inquiry, information, certificate, document, etc.) you may pass a day (week, month) to obtain this Paper or your case won�t be considered. Almost all files exists as Papers, no computer files!
Read more on this subject - Trip to Vladivostok for used cars from Japan.

There�s great abyss between group of super reach people and multitude of people who have poor income. So-called "new Russians" build many-storied cottages, buy foreign immovables, expensive importable cars, spending money, which have been got unfair way. They aren�t shy. There�re many poor people who lives in basements, sewerage wells, dumps. They find food and clothes there. Theft does prosper. Mighty officials steal credits of International Currency Fund; beggars steal phone cables and sell it as scraps.

The ordinary man (average citizen of Russia) works at state plant (works, factory, etc.) where wages are humility little (it no sooner guarantee living wage which is average $19 now but it's impossible to live on that amount of money). Besides, recently the wages used to be delayed up to 20 month! Permanent strikes and angry appeals to government don�t make effect. There are no funds in the budget. (Sure! There�s no wages delay for government!)

All his life my father works at railroad. Formerly he was a locomotive engineer and he had about $1400 per month. Now he�s mechanic and he has $100. And it�s considered being not bad because there�s no of payment delay at his work now. Father had $12,000 in Rubles in State bank. We didn�t know that. He�d like to make surprise for us. And sure he did. It became known for us in 1991, when all accounts have been frozen. Now those $12,000 became $0.45! Good deal, aye? Many people were deceived by state that way. Since that time people who have extra amount of money prefer to store it in US$ and sure not in a bank.

It�s good that we have free education in state schools, though. This is the legacy of socialism. For example, I�ve got high technical education absolutely free. Recently I left my job of University teacher. While I worked there, State paid me off $27 per month! $18 was to be spent on transportation. (I also had and still have University�s Internet access for free. Not everyone in Russia even knows about Internet at all. Lucky me!) For about 7 months I worked as Russian language teacher with Canadian missionary and I was paid $90 a month. Unfortunately, he didn't need my help anymore, so I've been unemployed for 4 months. Then I've been working in a Kodak photo lab for half a year. Now I'm starting a new job of secretary in Baptist Union office.

It�s hard to find suitable job. I had studied to be an engine designer but now there�s no need of designers. Two of my classmates trade in auto equipment, two others are in computers, another one is military officer and also shady businessman, another one used to be stoker, other one is in photo business (I worked there, too) and so on. No one became an engineer as it was supposed to.

My mom is unemployed now. She lost her job of cashier because department drug-store where she worked can't compete to commercial ones. So they saved on her wages. She's 52 and there are no chances she'll find a job. When I looked up the advertisind newspapers for job, I saw: "... not older than 30", "... of ages 25-30", "... working experience - 5 years", etc. How can I have that experience if nobody gives me a chance to get it? And when I finally got it, I'm "too old" (30+).

I live in outskirts of Russia, in the Far East region. Political situation here is plainly, quietly than in the capital. It�s understood: we are far away from a center of troubles. The average wages here (as the government says) are $100 per month. You can imagine the prices here: pound of bread - $0.15, pound of meat - $2.00, gallon of milk - $1.80. One trip by city transport (bus, tram) � $0.17...0.21, gallon of gasoline - $1.28, of diesel - $1.17. Consumer�s goods here are mainly Chinese (the border is in several miles SW). These goods aren�t rise above with high quality but of moderate price.

Many people are engaged in trade business. Some buy food in wholesale market and then sell it by retail right on the street. I have one of these "wild" markets beneath my window. Some others (we call them "shuttles") go to China, Turkey, etc for clothes and sell it here on "junk-markets". Unfortunately, extent of trade with foreign countries harshly decreased after August slump of Ruble because of low buying ability of citizens.

My family has small lot as many others have. It�s not our own land, we just till waste ground. We plant potatoes, cucumbers and tomatoes there. It�s cheaper to plant vegetables than to buy.

Old people, children and invalids are in the worst situation: they fully depend on state. There is child�s criminality, waifness.

There was great crash in Khabarovsk in 1998, on October 26th. At twilight 4 railroad carriages and big bus full of passengers came into collision at crossroad. The carriages torn the bus to 3 pieces. 26 were killed and about the same were wounded. It happened because of irresponsibility. Nobody secured those cars and they began to run by themselves. Nobody was punished.

Because of all these reasons there�s nostalgia among ordinary people about ages of socialism. "Why do we need such freedom if it�s hard even to survive!" � they says.

Many people try to find consolation in alcohol.

There�s no only opinion in a question about how can we solve those disasters. There�s no Russian National Idea. Concerning this, there�s one anecdote.

"There are two ways how can Russia raise from the ashes:

    1. Realistic. There will fly aliens and make everything for us.
    2. Fantastic. We�ll change our mind and make everything by ourselves."

In spite of all difficulties it�s possible to live here (or not?). However, we don�t choose the Fatherland.

We are very patient. Whatever happen, we�ll just endure. Maybe that�s the reason?

Auto life.

Big news of 2001! I've finally got a license!!!

I've spent about 5 weeks and $76 and here I am! The state certified driver of passenger car or light truck! Not everyone has a driver license. Primary ID is a passport. This isn�t that passport, which use for foreign trip. For that purpose you need a special passport (it takes long time to get this one). It�s possible to get driver license if you are 18 or older (bikes -16), if you have held examination on Traffic Rules and driving a car. It�s necessary to render a proof (the Paper!) of studying Rules, driving and car arrangement (!), medical examination certificate (the Paper!). It�s all costs money. By the way, if you don't want to learn, you can buy driver license (legal license, but illegal way to have it). Driver must to have technical passport of a car (the Paper, which certify your rights on car) or letter of attorney.

My driver's license

Technical inspection holds once a year. At the same time the taxes on road using (all roads in Russia are state property) and emission pays. Same as with license, you can buy a ticket that says that your car passed the inspection (legal ticket, but illegal way to have it).

The roads in Russia � these are something awful. There are pits, splits, opened communicating hatches, absence of marks, incorrect distribution of signals in a city. This is the rarity � asphalt (concrete, paved) road between towns. There�s soil mainly. Probably this is the part of Defense Complex (including cold winter) � remember the World War II when fascists slowed down their advance to Moscow because of impassability of roads :-)

It's not rarity on our roads when it's intricately to determine not only the color but also the mark of a car 'cause of the dirt that strongly ate in :-)

Oh, will the God save you from to go through all country in a car! I bet, you'll be robbered at least one time.

By the way, we have the widest lines (band of motion) in the world: 3 meters per line. Russia is big, no need to save space!

     
The trap for inattentive driver
Another trap

The road with advanced covering in 40 miles away from Moscow
The road with "advanced pavement" in 40 miles away from Moscow

The overwhelming majority of drivers repair their cars by themselves. And it happens very often.

Here you can be seeing some self-made vehicles, such as this "monster", assembled from GAZ-66, ZIL-130 and combine.

GAZ-ZILLa  ;-)

I don�t think I�ll be wrong if I say that all drivers beware of GAI. Unfortunately it is rarity if GAI-man helps you with something. Usually they don�t watch over safety preventing accidents but just find trespassers, real as well as imaginary. The money (penalty) must be paid at once to inspector (!). If you drive "cool" car, such as Jeep Grand Cherokee, you have a good chance to be not stopped groundlessly (who needs the troubles - you might be Mafia!) but on other hand it�s possible to shake out from you much money� This year they have changed name GAI to GIBDD (State Road Traffic Safety Inspection) and started to reorganize.

My friend got in a car accident and called to GAI. What do you think, how long does it takes to GAI to get to the place of accident in the right center of city? 3 hours! ;-)

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask me. I�ll answer all your e-mails

Click here to go to my Russian Cars website, if you got here from elsewhere.

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