Scent marking or spraying is performed as the cat stands facing away from its target, quivering  
its tail. The target is usually a vertical object such as a window, cabinet or stereo. Uncastrated  
males mark their territories by urine spraying. Unspayed females may spray when they are in  
heat. Neutering will solve most spraying problems. However, cats of either sex may spray if  
there are too many cats in the household. If reducing the number of cats in the household is  
not possible, treatment with a psycho- active medication may be necessary. Inappropriate  
defecation or nonspraying urination may have the same motivations.   

In contrast to spraying, urination or defecation is performed in a squatting position. The house  
soiling cat usually chooses rugs, bathtubs, beds, basement floors or other horizontal surfaces.  
Solving the problem begins with analyzing the location of the elimination. Elimination near the  
box indicates the litter or box is rejected, whereas elimination elsewhere is probably a  
preference for the location or substrate. Stress, especially caused by additional animals or  
people in the household, causes some cats to become more fastidious about their litter. They  
will also do the same if their litter box is cleaned too infrequently. A first step might be cleaning  
litter boxes daily instead of weekly. Changing brands of litter, too little litter in the box,  
overuse of deodorizers, or a poor box location can also lead to house soiling. More boxes,  
larger boxes, fine-grained clumping litter, and frequent cleaning solve most soiling problems. 

Redirected aggression occurs when a cat sees another cat but cannot reach it and attacks the  
owner or another cat in the household instead. To treat redirected aggression, remove the cat  
to a quiet dark room and isolate him until he is calm. Don't try to handle the cat-push it with a  
cardboard shield to maneuver it into a quiet room. Try to prevent visual contact with strange  
cats-the usual cause of redirected aggression.   

Aggression among cats in the same household is the most common feline aggression problem.  
Introduction of a new adult cat will usually provoke aggression. However, aggression can also  
occur between cats that had lived peacefully together for years. Redirected aggression is a  
frequent cause. Sometimes a physical change, or a change in odor can precipitate an attack.  
Gradual reintroduction of the cat, with or without psychotropic medications, is necessary. 

Scratching habits can be prevented from developing. If kittens are encouraged to use a  
scratching post, they usually will not abuse furniture. A good scratching post should have  
loosely woven material to allow the cat to hook its claws in the fabric. Hemp is a preferred  
scratching material. Cats scratch more often when they awaken and when greeting a returning  
owner. Therefore, locate the post near the cat's usual sleeping place and the front door.  
Carpeted climbing trees also help. The best teacher of a kitten is its mother, so choose kittens  
from queens that use a scratching post. If destructive clawing persists, discuss other solutions  
with your veterinarian such as the application of vinyl nail caps, or as a last option surgical  
procedures such as tendenectomy or declawing. 

If you want to keep several cats in your house, the ideal way is to raise them together as  
kittens. It is not necessary that they be littermates. An adult cat will be much more likely to  
accept a kitten as a companion than another adult. Also, an adult of the same sex is more  
threatening than one of the opposite sex.   

Gradually introduce a new cat to an established household. First, confine it to a room for the  
first few days, then to a cage in the doorway of the room. The resident cat(s) may investigate  
for another few days before allowing direct contact between the cats. The new cat should  
continue to have a room or cage to which it may retreat.   

Resident cats which are especially attached to people should receive extra attention during this  
period. Some of the anxiety may be alleviated by giving the cat an antianxiety medication.  
However, if the resident cat displays persistent aggression, house soiling, or withdrawal, it  
might be advisable not to keep the second cat. While two cats may become attached to one  
another, there is no apparent benefit to keeping many cats in one house. In fact, the stress  
produced by overcrowding may be detrimental to them. 

Aversion uses an obnoxious stimulus (e. g. hot pepper sauce or strong perfume) to teach  
avoidance. It is effective for oral behavior problems such as wool sucking or plant eating.   

Desensitization works well for managing fear or anxiety. First expose the cat to nonfearful  
stimuli and then gradually increase the intensity of the stimuli over time. For extreme cases, the  
use of antianxiety medications are helpful in the initial desensitization process.   

Punishment for misbehavior is only effective when the cat is caught in the act. Cats are unable  
to associate their actions with punishment unless the two occur within minutes of one another.  
Cats differ from other species in the type of punishment that is most effective to change  
behavior. The cat must not associate the owner with the action, otherwise the cat learns to  
avoid the behavior only in the owner's presence. The most effective techniques are using a  
water squirt gun or throwing a rattle nearby. The cat does not associate these punishments  
with the owner, but rather with the location or their behavior.   

Rewards are used for natural behavior that resembles behavior ultimately desired. Rewards  
may be in the form of food treats or stroking the cat.