The most vocal of the Baltics in their struggle against Russian domination, Independence has left Lithuania in a sort of post-independence malaise. Lacking the western feel (and investment) of Estonia, or a metropolis to rival Riga, Lithuania is in danger of becoming a backwater.

It will not go willingly. Drawing upon eight centuries of being a nation and the natural vibrancy of her people, Lithuania is trying to get back into the flow of Central Europe. It's a great time to take in the change first-hand.

Essential facts

Lithuania is unique among the Baltics for having a long-established native state. The Lithuanian Grand duchy was first organized in the 13th century. Uniting with Poland and converting to Christianity (the last European state to do so) in 1385, the Polish-Lithuanian Kingdom became a major player in European history before a slow decline ended in the absorption and partition of the state by Russia, Prussia & Austria. Remnants of the indigenous medieval state, the links with Poland and "pagan" heritage are still quite visible.

The national language is Lithuanian, close relative to Latvian with substantial borrowing and influence from Polish and Russian. English is not uncommon, but neither is it ubiquitous. Some Lithuanian phrases might be useful. Many Lithuanians speak Russian: failing English or Lithuanian, it might be worth a try. The monetary unit is the Lita, pegged to the U.S. Dollar at 4 to 1. ATMs are fairly commonplace in Vilnius and other major cities. Load up before going to the countryside. Lithuania is a fairly cheap destination. It's certainly possible to get back on $20 to $30 USD a day.

In Your Pocket publishes guides for most of the major cities in the country. Whether you are going to be in the country for an hour or a year - pick one up. You'll have an infinitely better idea of what to see, do and go.

Getting there and away

Southernmost of the Baltics and former player in Central European Geopolitics.

Getting to Lithuania can be a hassle. Lithuanian airlines and a few other carriers fly to and from Vilnius, but the cost of most of these flights can be prohibitively expensive. However, this is not always the case - I was able to get a student fare between Vilnius and Warsaw for about $70. Trains to and from the west cross Belarus, which means a visa is necessary - for which you get reamed to the cost of $50 or more (despite being in Belarus for about 20 minutes). Russia is to the east, and connections to and from the former master are fairly good. Buses are probably the best mode of transport within the Baltics themselves, and long-haul buses (long long haul) buses can be had to the far parts of Western Europe - cheaper then flying or train perhaps, but NOT fun. Klaipeda is linked to Germany, Sweden and Denmark via ferry. These tend to be expensive, but may be worth a look.

Vilnius

Capital of Lithuania only since her recent independence, Vilnius (Vilna) had been part of Poland between the wars. As with the rest of the Soviet empire, Vilnius suffered during communist mismanagement, leaving it with a derelict feeling. Since the return to capitalism however, the town has come alive with activity and people. It's a great place to spend a few days.

Attractions

Most of Vilnius's attractions are fairly low-key. Begin with a walking tour of the old town itself, full of interesting nooks and crannies. The heart of the old town is the Cathedral, and the adjacent Castle Hill, both closed for renovations when I was there, but they should be open by now. Kainu Park, next to the old town, is the venue for numerous music festivals during the summer. When I was there, it was world music - inconsistent but hopping.

At the border of the old town (the beginning or end of a tour, depending on your starting point) are the Ausros Vartai, the Gates of Dawn (left). An interesting combination of city gate and Catholic shrine, you'll see people crossing themselves and performing other Catholic rituals in its midst.

The only monument in the world to Frank Zappa is in Vilnius (right). It's a rather disappointing small bust with an adjoining mural in a non-descript area of apartment blocks - not worth a detour unless you're a fan.

Vilnius used to be one of the major centers of Ashkenazi learning and culture, until the Nazis wiped out more then 94% of the Jewish population during the Holocaust. Little remains now save sobering memorials to all the dead.

Food and Lodging

Vilnius has a good selection of hostels and hotels. I strongly recommend the Old Town hostel - a great location right outside the Gates of Dawn; while it won't win any awards for appearances, the owner and his staff (i.e., his sister and brother, I think) go out of their way to set up you and make you feel welcome - just in the few days we were there, they found a bed for us when we arrived unannounced late at night, hooked us up with a taxi to the airport at 5am, and drove guests across town to get vegetarian food late at night.

Lithuanian food is good, though heavy, and betrays the influences of Poland and Russia upon the cuisine. One of the best places is Medininkai, inside a former monastery near the Gates of Dawn with delicious and cheap Lithuanian fare. More expensive and not as good is Lokys, which does win points for atmosphere. For American-style breakfasts, try Mano Liza, good but a little expensive. Lithuanian beer, as to be expected, is pretty good - Utenos is a decent lager.