Baluchistan is a province of contrasts. It has some
of the bleakest landscape in the country with grim,
jagged mountains, barren and arid land where the sparse
greenery shrivels and wilts, but hidden away are some
stunningly beautiful places.
Outside Quetta, the provincial capital and the main
way out of the province, Baluchistan is only for the
hardiest and most adventurous of travellers. It has
few settlements of any size and virtually no organised
facilities for travellers. There are few sights as
such and any journey to find them will be arduous
even by Pakistani standards. There is also a danger
of brigandry or abduction in the interior, and foreigners
are advised not to venture off the main highways without
official protection.
Hospitality and generosity lie around every corner
and for those willing to adapt to local customs, Baluchistan
can be one of the most rewarding places in west Asia.
Most Baluchistan people are nomads who in spring
and summer migrate to the hills with their cattle,
goats, sheep, camels, donkeys and horses and set up
khizdi (tents) and huts of twigs, branches, grass,
reeds or straw. In winter they retreat to mud huts
on the plains. Apart from Quetta, Baluchistan's settlements
are mainly hamlets, villages or small towns built
around oases and separated by vast stretches of sand
or mountain.
Climate
Pakistan has well defined seasons; Winter (December
- February), Spring (March - April), Summer (May -
September) and Autumn (October - November). During
summer in plains, the temperature may go as high as
45C. Between July and August, the monsoon brings an
average 38 to 51cm of rain to plains.
Baluchistan: In winter the temperature falls to as
low as - 30 C while in summer it ranges from 18 to
30 C.
Attractions
Coastline
The coastline of Baluchistan extends over 750 kms
from Hub near Karachi, to the Gawadar Bay on Pakistan-Iran
border. The whole area is rich with a variety of marine
life and has long sunny beaches. Coastal towns of
Pasni, Jiwani and Gawadar are linked by air with Karachi.
The coastal tribes are as colourful as those of central
and upper Baluchistan. Their colourful costumes, songs
and dances are fascinating.
Passes
Bolan Pass - Along Bolan Pass, where the road
winds through the picturesque mountains one is reminded
of the huge odds that the armies from Central Asia
and north must have faced when swooping down the plains
of the present day Pakistan.
Khojak Pass - The Khojak Pass leads directly to the
border of Afghanistan which is
153 kms away from Quetta. The scenery is as breath-taking
here as it is at Bolan
Pass. The journey to the border town of Chaman passes
through a 4 km tunnel, more than 1945 metres above
sea level.
Lak Pass - Lak Pass is located between Kalat and
Quetta. Here the highway takes a turn for Koh-e-Taftan,
Saindak copper mines and Zahidan in Iran. On the hills,
oblivious to the presence of the traffic and humans,
hundreds of sheep browse upon the scant grass available.
The Gorges
Baluchistan is an arid land which receives very low
rainfall annually. But innumerable natural springs
known as 'Karez' and streams provide enough water
for drinking and cultivation of fruits and crops in
most of the areas. Thre are more than half a dozen
gorges around Ziarat formed by natural 'Karez' - spring
water falling through narrow openings amongst the
mountain rocks producing a dramatic effect. The sound
of waterfalls singing to the tune of solid rocks while
passing through narrow gorges creates a mystic atmosphere.
The famous gorges along the road to Ziarat are Chutair
Tangi, Kahn Tangi, Kawas Tangi, Fern Tangi and Sandeman
Tangi. One can approach easily to these gorges by
diverting from the main road to have a picnic, adventure
and fun.
Quetta
Don't miss the impressive Archaeological Museum of
Baluchistan, the fort or the city's many colourful
bazaars - great places to pick up marble, onyx and
some of the finest carpets in Pakistan.
Just outside Quetta are the postcard-perfect Hanna
Lake, plenty of picnic spots in Urak Valley, and the
protected Hazarganji Chiltan National Park. Also near
Quetta is the refreshingly cool hill station of Ziarat,
which is both a restful destination and a good base
for walking or mountaineering.
Activities
With some of the most magnificent mountain terrain
in the world, Pakistan is naturally a trekkers dream.
There are all types of trekking available, from those
organised by overseas companies to Pakistan-based
outfits. You can also make your own arrangements,
which will be cheaper but also more demanding. Popular
trekking routes which can stretch from a day to a
month are found mostly in Gilgit, Nanga Parbat, Balistan
(from where treks leave to K2) and Hunza, all in the
country's north. For something a little less demanding
there are good one-day hikes in the Ziarat Valley,
near Quetta.
Hana Lake
A little short of the place where the Urak valley
begins 10kms from Quetta is the Hinna Lake. The greenish-blue
water of the lake provides a rich contrast to the
sandy brown of the hills in the back ground. The Urak
valley is 21km from Quetta city. The road is lying
on both sides with wild roses and fruit orchards.
Peaches, palms, apricots and apples of many varieties
are grown in this valley.
Ziarat
Pakistan has a number of beautiful valleys, enchanting
their spectators with enthralling beauty but Ziarat's
importance is an archaic treasure of Junipers forests.
Situated about 122 km in the north of metropolis city
of Quetta in Baluchistan, this popular picnic resort
is at the elevation of 8,200 feet from the sea level.
The summers in the valley are always pleasant, attracting
a number of tourists, and the winters extremely harsh.
Junipers forests, which are one of the world oldest,
are the main source of lush green vista of the Ziarat
valley. some of the trees in Junipers forests had
been sowed as long as 5000 years ago, making Ziarat
as the second biggest Junipers valley in the world.
The word Ziarat means a 'shrine' (grave of a holy
man). The shrine of Khurwari Baba, after which Ziarat
was named, is located 8 km away from Ziarat and is
visited by a large number of people to pay attribute
to the divine soul. Ziarat takes pride in hosting
Quaid-i-Azam Muhammd Ali Jinnah, the founder of Pakistan
on a number of occasions. He also spent the last days
of his life in a government residency there.This monumental
residency was built in 1882 by the British government
and till independence was in the use of the agents
of the British governor general for India as their
summer headquarters. The residency is embellished
with beautiful lawns, covered with grassy carpets
and with roses, dancing at the rhythmic tunes of wind,
all around the garden. From there one can have a striking
view of the picturesque valley.
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