Pakistan is a land of many splendours.
The scenery changes northward from coastal beaches,
lagoons and mangrove swamps in the south to sandy
deserts, desolate plateaus, fertile plains, dissected
upland in the middle and high mountains with beautiful
valleys, snow-covered peaks and eternal glaciers in
the north.
The variety of landscape divides Pakistan into six
major regions:
the North High Mountainous Region, the Western Low
Mountainous Region, the Balochistan Plateau, the Potohar
Uplands, the Punjab and the Sindh Plains.
High Mountain Region: Stretching in the North, from
east to west, are a series of high mountain ranges
which separate Pakistan from China, Russia and Afghanistan.
They include the Himalayas, the Karakoram and the
Hindukush. The Himalayas spread in the north-east
and the Karakoram rises on the north-west of the Himalayas
and extends eastward up to Gilgit. The Hindu Kush
mountains lie to the north-west of the Karakoram,
but extend eastward into Afghanistan. With the assemblage
of 35 giant peaks over 24,000 ft. high (7,315m), the
region is the climbers' paradise. Many summits are
even higher than 26,000 ft.(7,925 m) and the highest
K-2(Mt.Godwin Austin) is exceeded only by Mt.Everest.
Inhospitable and technically more difficult to climb
than even Everest, they have taken the biggest toll
of human lives in the annals of mountaineering.
The passes are rarely lower than the summit of Mt.
Blanc and several are over 18,000 ft. (5,485 m). The
Karakoram Highway, that passes through the mountains,
is the highest trade route in the world. Besides,
the region abounds in vast glaciers, large lakes and
green valleys which have combined at places to produce
holiday resorts such as Gilgit, Hunza and Yasin in
the west and the valleys of Chitral, Dir, Kaghan and
Swat drained by rivers Chitral, Pankkora, Kunhar and
Swat respectively in the east. Dotted profusely with
scenic spots having numerous streams and rivulets,
thick forests of pine and junipers and a vast variety
of fauna and flora, the Chitral, Kaghan and Swat valleys
have particularly earned the reputation of being the
most enchanting tourist resorts of Pakistan.
South of the high mountains, the ranges lose their
height gradually and settle down finally in the Margalla
hills (2,000-3,000 ft.) in the vicinity of Islamabad,
the Capital of Pakistan, and Swat and Chitral hills,
north of river Kabul. Although the climate of the
region is extremely diverse, according to aspect and
elevation, yet as a whole it remains under the grip
of severe cold from November to April. May, June and
July are pleasant months. The southeren slopes receive
heavy rainfall and consequently are covered with forest
of deodar, pine, poplar and willow trees. The more
northerly ranges and north-facing slopes receive practically
no rains and are, therefore, without trees.
There is a considerable trans-humane from the mountains
to the plains in winter and from plains to the mountains
in summer. The permanent settlers grow corn, maize,
barely, wheat and rice on the terraced fields and
also raise orchards of apples, apricots, peaches and
grapes. Peaks and Glaciers Eric Shipton, a great mountainer
who perished in Pakistan's Northern Areas, wrote in
his account. To describe this region is to indulge
in superlatives, for everywhere you look are the highest,
the longest and the largest mountains, glaciers and
rivers in the world.
Making some allowance for Shipton's tendency towards
slight exaggeration, born out of awe and fascination,
the fact remains that Pakistan boasts of the largest
share of the highest mountain peaks in the world.
Its own highest peak, the famed and dreaded K-2, is
the second highest in the world, being just some `ropes'
short of the Everest in Nepal. With due respect to
the Everest, K-2 is regarded as far more firmidable
to climb than its relatively facile superior. Three
of the mightiest mountain systems- the Hindukush,
the Karakorams and the Himalayas- adorn the forehead
of Pakistan. The second highest peak of Himalayas,
as also of Pakistan, is the Nanga Parbat which literally
means the "Naked Mountain".
Pakistan has seven of the 16 tallest peaks in Asia.
The statistics are simply baffling: 40 of the world's
50 highest mountains are in Pakistan; in Baltistan
over 45 peaks touch or cross the 20,000 foot mark;
in Gilgit within a radius of 65 miles, there are over
two dizens peaks ranging in height between 18,000
to 26,000 feet.
The awe-inspiring beauty provided inspiration to
a Pakistani writer to observe lyrically, "in
Pakistan's lofty mountain regions, reaching for the
sky doesn't seem too ambitious". Pakistan's Eight
Thousanders: There are a total of 14 main peaks soaring
above 8000 metres in the world. Out of these, 8 are
located in Nepal, 5 in Pakistan and 1 in China. It
has become prestigious to make these peaks as targets
by mountaineers every year. In fact, successful climb
over these peaks is considered an enviable measure
of their attainment. By far, the largest number of
mountaineering expeditions visiting Pakistan has been
coming from Japan.
K-2 (8611m) It is the second highest mountain the
world. It was first attempted by Martin Conway's expedition
in 1902 which was composed of British, Austrian and
Swiss climbers. Ashraf Aman was the first Pakistani
climber to climb on top of K-2 with five other climbers
of the Jap-Pak expedition in 1977, with Ichire Yoshizawa
as its leader and Isao Shinkai as the technical leader.
Nanga Parbat (8125m) It is also known as the killer
mountain. It claimed the life of AF Mummery, leader
of an expedition and two porters in 1895. Since then
Nanga Parbat has cost scores of lives, though quite
a few have successfully scaled it. Harmann Buhl was
the first to set foot on this formidable peak in 1953.
In spite of its bloody past record, Nanga Parbat is
still the most sought after target. Its dangerous
challenge seems to add spurs to the determination
of climbers.
Hidden Peak (8068m) This peak was first attempted
in 1892 by Martin Conway's expedition who gave it
this name because it was hidden by the neighbouring
peaks of Baltoro glacier. The peak was first conquered
in 1958 by an American expedition. Nick clinch was
the leader. The climbing leaders Peter Schoening and
Kanfuran were the two summiters.
Broad Peak (8047m) This peak was also named by Martin
Conway and was first attempted by a German expedition
headed by Karl Herligk offer in 1954. The peak was
climbed in 1957 when the entire team of four climbers
with Marcus Schmuck scaled it.
In the far-north of Pakistan are valleys which are
closed within the silent, brooding forts of these
mountains and are almsot as high as the mountains
themselves. Here dwell, from times immemorial, various
tribes differing in race and culture. If one tribe
has Mongol features, its neighbour is obviously Aryan.
Separated by insurmountable obstacles, these tribes
very often live a totally land-locked existence blissfully
unaware of the world beyond. But, a traveller is simply
wonderstruck by one common element - Islam.
Every-where you hear the familiar Assalam-o-Alaikum,
the universal Muslim greeting and welcome. and no
matter how small or poor the inhibtation, the same
muezzin's call to prayer "Allah-u-Akbar rings
in the thin mountain air, issuing from the minarets
of mosques hidden in the inaccessible fold of these
ranges pulsates an infinite variety of life; animals
reptiles, birds, insects and plants. There is, of
course, the yak which is an enormous but docile beast,
at once the beast of burden and food. It is notable
in the wildlife of these regions, but, its hunting
is strictly restricted and in many areas totally forbidden
by law.
Glaciers:
Pakistan has more glaciers than any other land outside
the North and South Poles. Pakistan's glacial area
covers some 13,680 sq.km which represents an average
of 13 per cent of mountain regions of the upper Indus
Basin. Pakistan's glaciers can rightly claim to possess
the greatest mass and collection of glaciated space
on the face of earth. In fact, in the lap of the Karakoram
of Pakistan alone there are glaciers whose total length
would add up to abvoe 6,160 sq. km. To put it more
precisely, as high as 37 per cent of the Karakoram
area is under its glaciers against Himalayas' 17 per
cent and European Alps' 22 per cent. The Karakorams
have one more claim to proclaim; its souther flank
(east and west of the enormous Biafo glacier) has
a concentration of glaciers which works out to 59
per cent of its area.
There is a historical reason for the fact that we,
and the world outside, are better acquainted with
glaciers in the Nanga Parbat region. It is through
this region, hazardous though it is, that man has
trudged to and fro since the beginning of his civilized
history of movement and migration. The Siachin glacier
is 75 kms. The Hispar (53 kms) joins the Biafo at
the Hispar La (5154.16 metres (16,910 ft) to form
an ice corridor 116.87 kms (72 miles) long. The Batura,
too is 58 kms in length. But, the most outstanding
of these rivers of ice is the 62 kms Baltoro. This
mighty glacier fed by some 30 tributaries constitues
a surface of 1291.39 sq. kms. Western Low Mountains
Region.
These western low mountains spread from the Swat
and Chitral hills in a north-south direction (along
which alexander the Great led his army in 327 B.C)
and cover a large portion of the North-West Frontier
Province. North of the river Kabul their altitude
ranges from 5,000 to 6,000 ft. in Mohamand and Malakand
hills. The aspect of these hills is exceedingly dreary
and the eye is everywhere met by the dry rivers between
long rows of rocky hills and crags, scantily covered
with coarse grass, scrub wood and dwarf palm. South
of the river Kabul spreads the Koh-e-Sofed Range with
a general height of 10,000 ft. Its highest peak, Skaram,
being 15,620 ft. South of Koh-e-Sofed are the Kohat
and Waziristan hills (5,000 ft) which are traversed
by the Kurram and Tochi rivers, and are bounded on
south by Gomal River.
The whole area is a tangle of arid hills composed
of limestone and sandstone. South of the Gomal River,
the Sulaiman Mountains run for a distance of about
483 kilomaters in a north-south direction, Takht-e-Sulaiman
(11,295 ft.) being its highest peak. At the southern
end lie the low Marri and Bugti hills. The area shows
an extraordinary landscape of innumerable scarps,
small plateaus and steep craggy out-crops with terraced
slopes and patches of alluvial basins which afford
little cultivation.
Kirthar Range South of the Sulaiman Mountains is
the Kirthar Range which forms a boundary between the
Sindh plain and the Balochistan plateau. It consists
of a series of ascending ridges running generally
north to south with broad flat valleys in-between.
The highgest peak named Kutte ji Kabar (dog's grace
is 6,878 ft. above sea level. Bleak, rugged and barren
as these hills are, they afford some pasturage for
flocks of sheep and goats. The valleys are green with
grass and admit cultivation up to a highest of 4,000
ft. Historical Passes The western mountains have a
number of passes, which are of special geographical
and historical interest. For centuries, they have
been watching numerous kings, generals and preachers
passing through them and the events that followed
brought about momentous changes in the annals of mankind.
Climate
Although the country is in the monsoon region, it
is arid, except for the southern slopes of the Himalayas
and the sub-Mountainous tract which have a rainfall
from 76 to 127 cm. Balochistan is the driest part
of the country with an average rainfall of 21 cm.
On the southern ranges of the Himalayas, 127 cm. of
precipitation takes place, while under the lee of
these mountains (Gilgit and Baltistan) rainfall is
hardly 16 cm. Rainfall also occurs from western cyclonic
distrubances originating in the Mediterranean.
It is appreciable in the western mountains and the
immediate forelying area; hre the rainfall average
ranges from 27 to 76 cm. The contribution of these
western distrurbances to rainfall over the plains
is about 4 cm. A large part of the precipitation in
the northern mountain system is in the form of snow
which feeds the rivers. The all-pervasive aridity
over most of Pakistan, the predominant influence on
the life and habitat of the people, coupled with the
climatic rhythm, characteristic of a monsoon climate,
are conducive to homogeneity of the land.
Seasons The four well-marked seasons in Pakistan
are:-
(i) Cold season (December to March).
(ii) Hot season (April to June).
(iii) Monsoon season (July to September).
(iv) Post-Monsoon season (October and November).
The cold season sets in by the middle of December.
This period is characterised by fine weather, bracing
air-low humidity and large diurnal range of temperature.
Winter distrubances in this season accordingly cause
fairly widespread rain. Average mimimum and maximum
temperatures are 4 oC and 18 oC, though on occasions
the mercury falls well below freezing point. The winter
sun is glorious. The hot season is usually dry. Relative
humidity in May and June varies from 50 per cent in
the morning to 25 per cent or less in the afternoon.
The temperature soars to 40 oC and beyond. The highest
recorded temperature at Jaccobabad in June is 53 oC.
While the interior is blazing hot, the temperature
along the sea coast ranges between 25 oC to 35 oC,
but the humidity persists around 70 to 80 per cent.
The south-west monsoon reaches Pakistan towards the
beginning of July and establishes itself by the middle
of the month. The strength of the monsoon current
increases form June to July; it then remains steady,
and starts retreating towards the end of August, though
occasionally, it continues to be active even in September
when some of the highest floods of the Indus Basin
have been recorded. From the middle of September to
the middle of November is the transitory period which
may be called the post-monsoon season.
In October, the maximum temperature is of the order
of 34 oC to 37 oC all over Pakistan, while the nights
are fairly cool with the minimum temperature around
16 oC. In the month of November, both the maximum
and the mimimum temperatures fall by about 6 oC and
the weather becomes pleasant. October and November
are by far the driest months all over the plains of
Pakistan.
People and Population
The population of the country as on 1st January,
1994, is estimated at about 124.45 million with its
male/female ratio of 52.50:47.50 per cent. The current
growth rate of 3.0 per cent is the highest among nine
most populous countries of the world. The population
is expected to reach 150 million by the year 2000.
Density per square kilometre is 156 persons. Literacy
rate is estimated to be 36.8 per cent. Of the four
provinces, with 25.8 per cent of land area of the
country, Punjab has 56.5 per cent of the total population;
Sindh, with 17.7 per cent of land area, has 22.6 per
cent: NWFP, (including FATA) with 12.8 per cent of
land area, has 15.7 per cent; Balochistan, with 43.6
per cent of land area, has 5.1 per cent. Thus, Punjab
is the most densely (240 persons per sq km) populated
province, follwed by Sindh and NWFP. Balochistan is
the least populated province, with 19 persons per
square kilomatre. The overall population density of
the country is 156 persons per square kilometre as
estimated in 1994. Sindh is the urbainised province
with 43 per cent of the people living in urban areas
including Karachi City. The urban population of Punjab
is 28 per cent followed by NWFP, 21 per cent, and
Balochistan 16 per cent. About 67 per cent of the
total urban population of the country lives in 28
cities with population of 100,000 and above, while
57 per cent of the total urban population lives in
12 cities with population lives in 12 cities with
population of 200,000 and above. Age Composition According
to the Labour Force Survey, 1990-91, 46.93 of the
population is under 15 years of age; 49.66 per cent
is between the age groups of 15 and 64 years, while
3.41 per cent comprises persons 65 years old and above.