Fluffy is sitting by the window as usual. You pass by and gently stroke her back. Suddenly your affectionate and gentle pet has her teeth in your arm.
What just happened? Has Fluffy gone mad?
The phenomena of redirected aggression can be puzzling and frightening to cat lovers. It occurs when a cat is highly aroused and in an aggressive state (for instance, by the sight of an outside cat, by just having been in a fight, or by a loud, disturbing noise), and the cat attacks a person or another animal within reach. Generally, cats do not redirect aggression unless they are touched or closely approached by another animal or person.
If a cat is in an aggressive state or mood, it can be very dangerous for the owner to approach it, or try to pick it up. The owner should wait until the cat has changed its mood before interacting with it. The state of arousal can last two hours or more, but in most cases is over within thirty minutes. After the cat has engaged in another behavior, such as grooming, playing, or eating, it is usually safe to approach it.
To treat this type of aggression, the arousing stimulus must be identified so that it can be eliminated. For example, if the cat is upset by looking at other cats through the window, the outside cats should be kept from passing near the window or the resident cat's view should be obstructed by pulling a shade or keeping the cat out of the room with the windows. If the triggering stimulus cannot be removed, then the cat should be systematically desensitized to it. In the case of a disturbing noise, it should be repeated at regular intervals at very low levels until the cat is used to it and then the volume gradually increased, always keeping it below the cat's stress threshold.
If the owner is the victim of redirected aggression, it is important that he not retaliate so strongly that the attacking cat develops a fear of him and becomes defensively aggressive toward him, thereby creating another, more difficult problem to solve. Keep in mind that it is the cat's predatory nature that enables it to concentrate so single-mindedly on a particular object (or animal) of interest. This all-consuming focus of the cat's attention is not easily transformed into a recognition of the touch of an old friend--so don't take it personally!
"When two cats in the household who have gotten along well together suddenly become aggressive toward each other, the problem is generally fear-induced aggression. Neither of the cats seeks the other out, but if they run into each other, both will act startled and attack. Usually this problem begins "by mistake" or by accident. For example, Cat A may be sitting in a window as an outside cat walks by. Cat B sees the outside cat & rushes to the window to attack it. Unfortunately, Cat A happens to be in the way & sees Cat B aggressively charging toward it. Cat A puffs up & hisses. Cat B redirects its attention to Cat A & puffs up & hisses. Then the cats attack each other. Each acts as if the other started the fight.
"Occasionally, two friendly cats may be resting when a frightening incident occurs, such as a bookshelf falling over. Both cats become startled, puff up & assume defensive postures. When they see each other in a defensive posture, they act as if the other is about to attack. Consequently, each reacts defensively, a fight ensues & thereafter they are aggressive whenever they see each other."
In order to successfully treat this type of aggression, the cats must be separated & carefully reintroduced to each other. They must become accustomed to each other again without either cat becoming afraid or aggressive. The method for reintroducing cats is the same as the protocol for introducing a new cat into the household. Remember, don't try to handle the cats if they are aroused or agitated or you will be the victim of redirected aggression. If necessary, throw a thick towel over one of the cats so that you can safely take it to another room.
1. Keep the cats in separate rooms for a few days. Then exchange rooms so
that they can reacquaint themselves with each other's scent. The door should
be kept closed so that there is no interaction between the cats at this time.
2. After a few days of room rotation, let the cats see each other, but not have contact with each other. This can be accomplished by securely wedging or hooking the door so the cats can peek through the crack but can't fit through the opening. Feed the cats something especially delicious on opposite sides of the door. You can also tie two small toys together with a string & slide it under the door so that when one cat bats at the toy, the toy on the other side of the door moves. The goal is for each cat to associate good food & good times with the presence of the other cat.
3. Praise the cats when they are near each other. It never helps to scold the aggressor. If either cat becomes extremely hostile or frightened, close the door & try again later.
4. When the cats are relaxed with the sight of one another, then it is time to open the door. Let them be together for only a few minutes at first, gradually increasing the time each day.
5. This process can take a few days or a few weeks depending on the personalities of the cats & the severity of their aggressive encounter. If you are patient & systematic about the reintroduction process, you will be rewarded with two cats that are, once again, purrfectly compatible.
This type of aggression usually develops gradually (unlike redirected or fear- induced aggression). It begins with hissing and growling; progresses to swatting and chasing; and finally involves attacking and fighting. The victim may become progressively more afraid of the aggressor and may begin to hide in remote areas of the house, coming out only when the other cat is not around. Occasionally, litterbox problems occur because the fearful cat is too afraid to leave the hiding place. It is very important to provide the victim with a safe haven in the house to protect it from injury and stress.
While many cat owners who experience this problem opt to find a new home for one of the cats, those who have a strong attachment to both cats, may prefer to try systematically desensitizing the aggressor to his victim. This is the same procedure that we recommend for introducing a new cat into the household or reintroducing two suddenly hostile cats (refer to "When Best Friends Become Arch Enemies"). After desensitization and counter-conditioning steps have been taken, it is essential that the owner be prepared to carefully monitor the next very important step-their interactions once they are allowed to be together.
Any sign that an aggressive encounter may be brewing should be heeded and the cats should be separated immediately. Further altercations will only cement their hostility toward each other. Have a large squirt bottle handy to douse the aggressor if he makes a threatening advance. (Do not shout or scold, as this will frighten the victim as well.) If your timing is perfect, he will get the message.
If you do not see progress with any of the suggestions above, you may want to read the chapter "Give Peace a Chance" in Dr. Nicholas Dodman's book, "The Cat Who Cried for Help", before consulting with your veterinarian regarding drug therapy.
Cats work hard to avoid chance encounters with other cats which could lead to fighting & injury. As solitary predators, they rely entirely on their own ability to catch prey. If their hunting skills are impaired, they cannot survive. Marking behaviors allow a number of cats to share the resources in a territory without ever having to compete directly with one another. For example, one cat may occupy a spot in the morning but leave it for another cat to occupy in the afternoon.
The cats in your home establish territories just as their wild counterparts do. You might find it interesting to note where each of your cats rests at different times of the day & then check to see if this pattern holds true over a period of a few days. It would also be interesting to see which cats time- share with which other cats. A recent study of time-sharing in a house of 14 neutered cats found that cats seem to choose their time-shared spots with specific individuals of the same gender. (The exception was mother cats who time-shared with their male kittens.)
The Prevention of Litterbox Problems
2. The rule of thumb for the number of litterboxes is: one per cat in the household, plus one. Extra litterboxes are necessary because some cats like to defecate in one & urinate in another. Others will not use a box that has already been used by another cat. Different areas for the litterboxes can prevent location-avoidance problems.
3. Clean the litterboxes DAILY. The single most common reason for a cat's refusal to use a litterbox is because the box is dirty. Non-clumping litter should be scooped daily & the litterbox emptied & washed every other day. Clumping litter should also be scooped daily & the litterbox washed when soiled. The cheaper clumping litters that break-up easily should be dumped out as frequently as the non-clumping litters. (Bacteria left in the litterbox will smell to the cat even if you can't smell it.)
4. Choose a litter that appeals to the cat. Most cats prefer the texture of the sand-like scooping litters. Be sure to select a brand that clumps into a firm ball, making scooping easier and cleaner. (Everclean HD is excellent.) As a health precaution for kittens that might be prone to ingest the litter, use a non-clumping litter until the kitten is four months old.
5. NEVER use scented litter. Perfumed, chemical scents repel cats. When you wash the litterbox, use hot water & a mild dishwashing liquid. Do not use harsh chemicals that will leave a lingering odor.
6. Do not use litterbox liners--they can be irritating to some cats. Also covered, or hooded litterboxes can be offensive to cats as they do not satisfy the cat's need for escape potential when eliminating. They also trap the odor inside, creating an "outhouse effect". The litterbox should be uncovered & at least 22" x 16" for an adult cat.
7. Place litterboxes in quiet, private places that are easily accessible to the cat & where it will not be disturbed by children or ambushed by other pets. Noisy areas near washing machines, furnaces, or under stairs, may frighten the cat away from the box. A house with several stories should have a litterbox on each floor. NEVER place litterboxes near food & water dishes.
8. While kittens have an innate predisposition to use an easily raked substrate as their litter, they may also choose other, more convenient, locations. You should limit their territory until they learn that the litterbox is the only acceptable place to eliminate. Praise & rewards will speed up the learning process. Like small children, they should not be expected to travel very far to find their toilet areas.
9. When introducing a new cat into the home, confine the cat to one room with its litterbox, bed, food and water, until the cat has used the litterbox several times and shows an interest in exploring the rest of the house. Once you have decided on the placement for the litterboxes in your house-- Don't move them!
10. Help your cat feel comfortable in his home territory. Play games with him, give him a massage, talk to him frequently. Give him positive & affectionate attention. A confident, secure, contented & relaxed cat does not need to relieve anxiety & stress by such extreme measures as urine or fecal marking.
2. Carefully check the 10 steps for preventing litterbox problems mentioned previously. (It always helps to improve the litterbox situation even if the problem appears to be a health issue or one of territorial stress.) Perhaps the solution is as easy as adding more litterboxes, cleaning more frequently, or changing the brand of litter. Try to accommodate Kitty's preferences for litterbox location (where the "accidents" occurred) & litterbox filler whenever possible. If you want to try a new litter, put it in a new litterbox & fill Kitty's old litterboxes with the litter he is used to until you see that he is using & enjoying the new litter. Most cats are okay with 3 inches of litter in the box, but if you suspect that Kitty prefers more or less than this, tip the litterbox to provide a gradation of litter depth. When you see which area Kitty is using, you can provide this depth in all his boxes. Some cats just seem to have peculiar preferences for toilet areas & seek out smooth or soft surfaces. (Declawed cats have a reputation for doing this more often than others.) Try offering the cat an empty litterbox or one lined only with newspaper.
3. Never punish the cat for eliminating outside of its litterbox. Housesoiling happens when the litterbox, its contents, or its location is offensive to the cat or when the cat is stressed by the environment. Punishment only increases the cat's stress. HOUSESOILING IS NEVER DONE TO SPITE THE OWNER.
4. If aversion to the litterbox can be ruled out, consider that the problem could be anxiety-related. Has there been a change in the household? Any intrusion on the cat's territory, whether human, animal, or even a new piece of furniture, can cause a cat to feel threatened, insecure & stressed. This results in his need to remind himself & the world of his territory. Territorial marking is usually accomplished by spraying urine on vertical surfaces, or less frequently, by squatting & urinating or defecating on horizontal surfaces.
5. Try to relieve or eliminate the source of the cat's anxiety. (For example, pull the drapes so that Kitty cannot view the antics of the tom cat next door.) If the environmental cause that triggers the territorial behavior cannot be identified or eliminated, consult with an experienced feline behavior counselor.
6. Whatever the cause for the inappropriate elimination behavior, a brief confinement period may be necessary in order to clean the soiled areas, place deterrents in these spots & to purchase more litterboxes or new litter. The confinement room should be a comfortable room & should contain two litterboxes, fresh food & water & a bed and toys. (Remember not to place the litterboxes near the food & water.) Visit Kitty regularly, but don't let him out until the home environment has been cleaned & the litterbox situation has been improved. (Please note that extended periods of confinement may be detrimental to the retraining process.) When Kitty is let out, it is important to PRAISE APPROPRIATE BEHAVIOR.
7. In order to thoroughly clean the urine-soaked areas, an ultraviolet light may be used to identify the problem spots. (If you have several cats & don't know which one is responsible for the problem, you can give one of the suspects a small amount of fluorescein which you can get from your veterinarian. This can be given orally to the cat each day. If this cat is the culprit, the ultraviolet light will show a glowing green spot on the carpeting.) A strong enzymatic cleaner should be used to saturate & neutralize the affected areas. The Equalizer is highly effective and is available at many veterinary clinics or by calling: 800-786-4751 (item # 29-210).
8. After the areas have been treated, it will be necessary to repel Kitty from these spots. (There may no longer be a smell to attract him to the scene of the crime, but the fact that he has gone there before may tempt him to try it again.) While the carpet is drying, place several solid air fresheners on top of the spot. (Most cats dislike citrus smells so try lemon-scented fragrances, or any strongly concentrated perfume will do.) When the carpet is dry, a carpet runner flipped upside down with the spikes on the top can be placed over the areas. Radio Shack sells a mini-motion detector for about $25 that also works well to keep cats from trespassing on forbidden areas. All deterrents should remain in place for at least a month after the cat has been reliably using the litterbox.
Does your cat squirt over the side of the litterbox or dig so enthusiastically that the litter flies out of it? The solution is simple--make a high-sided litterbox. Buy a large plastic storage container (at least 16" x 22" in diameter & 12" high). Choose one that is made of a somewhat flexible plastic so that when you cut it, it won't crack. Take off the lid--you won't be using it-- & cut a square entrance in one side. It should be wide enough so that Kitty can fit through easily & about 4-5" from the bottom. File cut areas or place tape on them so Kitty doesn't get hurt on the sharp edges. You & your cat will love the convenience of this unique litterbox.
It's hard to see life from the cat's point of view, but try to imagine yourself living in a society where there were no property rights. Anyone could move into your home at any time without your permission. The first new residents might be kind of fun to have around as company. As the population increased, you found that you were in competition to use the bathroom, someone was always eating the food you had saved for your supper & even your bed was occasionally claimed by a newcomer. Do you think that this situation would make you frustrated and irritable, stressed to the point that even your friends might want to avoid you?
It's no surprise that tensions occasionally erupt in multicat households. Cats adapt to living with one another to varying degrees. In some cases intercat aggression can escalate to the point where certain cats become social outcasts, or "pariahs". These frightened felines may be so intimidated that they won't leave their hiding places to eat or use the litterbox. Even a cat that tolerates several housemates may become aggressive with the addition of one more cat.
If you have given careful consideration to the effect of the addition of a newcomer to your cat family and you feel that they can handle one more, then here are some suggestions to make the turf more "cat friendly":
1. The first step in eliminating the stress of group living is to make sure all of your cats are spayed and neutered.
2. Introductions are very important. Follow our suggestions for a systematic and gradual introduction utilizing the principles of desensitization & counterconditioning.
3. Create feline hide-outs--special places where cats can go to be alone. It can be as simple as a cardboard box with a hole cut into it and soft bedding on the bottom.
4. Make use of the vertical space in your home by adding floor-to-ceiling cat trees, window perches, and kitty condos. It has been observed that cats living in groups are more comfortable if they can "layer" themselves.
5. Provide one litterbox per cat plus one and place them in widely separated sites. Some cats will not use a litterbox if other cats are nearby.
6. Reduce competition at mealtimes by providing several feeding stations. A more dominant cat can keep a shy cat from the food bowl if there is only one location.
7. Remember that you are a very important part of your cats' territory (or turf) and every day give each of your cats some time alone with you for cuddling and loving attention.
Spraying is accomplished by squirting a powerful jet of urine backward onto vertical features of the environment--doors, windows, drapes, walls, etc.--about 8 inches above the floor. Both male and female cats, whether neutered or not, can do this. Cats regularly revisit sprayed areas to "freshen up" the scent when it starts to decline. When investigating another cat's urine mark, the cat will display a curious, grimacing pose with its mouth partly open. It is using the vomeronasal, or Jacobson's organ, which is located behind the incisor teeth in the roof of the mouth. This extra sense allows the cat to smell and taste an odor at the same time and sends a powerful signal to the cat's brain activating a territorial response.
A new product that has been available for about a year promises to be very helpful in reducing the stress that leads to spraying. Feliway is an environmental spray that consists of a synthetic chemical that mimics the scent found in the gland near the lips of cats (the facial pheromones). It is available through veterinary clinics and sells for about $35 to $40 a bottle. Feliway is sprayed directly on spots that have been previously sprayed by the cat and washed with water. When the cat returns to the area to freshen up his mark, he sniffs the Feliway and gets the message that this spot has already been marked facially. It appears to have a calming effect on cats and cat carriers and cages in veterinary clinics as well as in humane societies that have been spritzed with this product tend to be less traumatizing for cats.
Even with the use of Feliway, the fundamental cause of the spraying problem must be addressed. It is necessary to reduce the cat's exposure to the stimuli that trigger marking and altering the cat's response. If it is caused by the sight of outdoor cats, the drapes must be pulled or the cat must be kept out of the room during the time of day when the strays are most likely to appear. If tension between cats in the household is contributing to the problem, the competing cats may have to be restricted to separate areas in the house. (A gradual and systematic reintroduction may help to diffuse the anxiety between the cats.) "In households with a large number of cats, the problem may not stop unless the number of cats is reduced"--Wayne Hunthausen, DVM.
If there is no other viable solution...a drug that has also been recently introduced for use in cats, Buspirone, has proven helpful in a number of spraying cases involving territorial stress due to competition between cats in the home. Discuss this option with your veterinarian.
The Causes of Urine Spraying
Too many cats in the home, tension among the resident pets, or visiting cats can all trigger spraying behavior. Environmental stress--such as moving into a new home--may also lead to a spraying problem. Anxiety caused by changes in work schedules, absences from home, spending less time with the pet, or inappropriate punishment may also cause a cat to spray in the home. When gathering information about the problem, close attention should be given to anything that might elicit a territorial response or make the pet anxious. Sometimes the stimuli for spraying are obvious. Other times, the provocation might not be as apparent, such as when the scent of another cat is brought into the home on a visitor's clothing.
Conditions that might cause a cat to spray urine:
* Cats visiting in the yard * New pet or new family member * Problems with a member of the household * Problems with another pet * Moving or remodeling * Visitors
Treatment
Treatment for controlling marking problems involves reducing the cat's exposure to the stimuli that trigger marking and altering the cat's response. The cat's opportunity to see outdoor cats should be curtailed by closing drapes, modifying window sills, and moving furniture near windows where the pet perches. All evidence of urine odor should be cleaned from around doors and windows, indoors and outdoors...If tension between cats in the household is contributing to the problem, that issue should be addressed or the pets should be confined to separate areas in the home. In households with a large number of cats, the problem may not stop unless the number of cats is reduced.
To prevent spraying problems from starting in the first place all cats in the household should be spayed or neutered before the age of six months. After spraying has begun, castration is still effective in stopping this behavior in 90% of male cats and 95% of female cats, regardless of age or experience.
A new approach to the treatment of spraying problems is the use of Feliway, an environmental spray that consists of a synthetic chemical that mimics the scent found in the gland near the lips of cats (the facial pheromones). It is available through veterinary clinics and sells for about $35 to $40 a bottle. Feliway is sprayed directly on spots that have been previously sprayed by the cat and washed with water. (If the spot is on upholstery, it will have to be cleaned with a strong enzymatic cleaner and a piece of fabric sprayed with Feliway can be placed on top of it). When the cat returns to the area to freshen up his mark, he sniffs the Feliway and gets the message that this spot has already been marked facially. When the directions for the use of this product have been carefully followed, it has proven to be very effective in reducing and eliminating the motivation for spraying.
If all else fails...a drug that has also been recently introduced for use in cats, Buspirone, has been used with success in spraying cases involving territorial stress due to competition between cats in the home. Discuss this option with your veterinarian.
Litter box avoidance is often the first sign of a cat with a lower urinary tract disorder. It is likely that the discomfort associated with eliminating may lead to aversion. Polyuria due to conditions such as renal disease or diabetes may result in a litter box that is constantly soaked and unacceptable to the pet. Diarrhea, constipation and colitis are other problems that can result in discomfort during the act of elimination and cause litter box avoidance. During physical examination, special attention should be paid to the urinary and gastrointestinal systems.
The reasons why a cat might eliminate away from the litter box are numerous. If the pet abruptly starts urinating and defecating outside the box, there is probably something about the litter box that the cat finds undesirable. The accumulation of waste, organic and disinfectant odors, unacceptable litter, or an aversive experience associated with the litter box may cause the pet to avoid it. The cat may have been disciplined, medicated or frightened near the box. The box nay have been moved to an area with high traffic. Harsh punishment for any reason might cause the cat to eliminate in secluded areas in order to avoid family members.
Although most cats urine mark on upright objects, some may mark on horizontal surfaces. When the cat is urinating on top of specific objects, such as the owner's clothing, bed, or favorite chair, an anxiety-motivated problem should be considered. If emotional factors are causing the housesoiling, you may see related behavioral changes occurring, such as avoidance, hiding, aggression or a general alteration in the pet's behavior patterns. Keeping a diary may help the owner identify situations that trigger the problem when the housesoiling is very sporadic and the reason for the problem is not immediately apparent.
Most owners use punishment in an attempt to change the pet's behavior. This approach is rarely effective and often makes the situation worse. This is especially true if it is harsh or delayed, or when anxiety is an important factor in the development of the problem. No matter what the circumstances might be, the cat should never be swatted or physically punished. The owner should be cautioned against rubbing the cat's nose in the mess or roughly handling it and placing it in the litter box.
Whether the problem is due to an aversion to the litterbox itself or due to environmental stress, make sure that the litterbox situation is ideal and that the soiled areas have been properly cleaned and deterrents have been set up. (See our articles..."What Every Cat Owner Should Know About the Prevention of Litterbox Problems" and "What Every Cat Owner Should Know About the Solution of Litterbox Problems".)
* Behavior problems are the number one killer of pets in this country * Eight million pets are euthanized each year because of behavior problems. * Between 50% to 70% of animals in shelters are there because their owners either couldn't or wouldn't deal with their behavior problems.
You can help to change these statistics by sharing what you have learned about cat behavior with others. Sometimes the simplest suggestions can save a cat's life. The first step is getting a detailed history of the problem so that appropriate recommendations can be made. The following questions will provide a good basis for a behavior problem investigation:
1. Find out basic information about the animal (or animals) involved including the sex, age, is the cat spayed or neutered, declawed?
2. How long has the owner had the cat? How long has the problem been going on?
3. What exactly is the problem? When and where does it occur? Under what circumstances?
4. Are there any people or animals present when the behavior occurs? What are they usually doing before, during, and after the problem happens?
5. How often does this behavior occur? Is there any pattern or regularity to it?
6. If it is sporadic, have you noticed anything in the cat's environment that could trigger the behavior? (If the owner hasn't observed anything in particular, suggest keeping a journal).
7. When and under what circumstances did the first problem occur? Describe subsequent occurrences.
8. What treatment methods, if any, are the owners trying or have they tried to correct the problem? Are they punishing the cat?
9. When was the cat last seen by a veterinarian? What tests, if any, were done at that time? Has the cat had a history of health problems? Is it currently undergoing any form of medical treatment?
10. How would you describe the cat's personality? Outgoing, friendly to strangers, curious about new things brought into the house, or shy, nervous, afraid of loud sounds, new people?
11. What is the cat's daily routine? Is it an indoor cat or does it have free or limited access to the outdoors? Is there anything in the cat's environment that regularly frightens it? (For example, the vacuum cleaner, the doorbell, animals outside, etc.).
12. What is the composition of the household? Are there other pets? What are the behavior and attitudes of the rest of the family towards the cat? How much attention does the cat get on a daily basis, and from whom?
Any further questions will be specific to the particular behavior problem --whether it is housesoiling, aggression with people, aggression with pets, etc.
During the course of the interview you will get a feeling for what life is like for this cat. Having a good, basic understanding of the needs and nature of the cat and the treatment of common behavior problems, you should be able to make recommendations to improve the situation for the cat and thereby solve the problem. If a solution is not forthcoming, please recommend that the owner contact an experienced feline behavior counselor for more advice.
The best way to deal with a defensively aggressive cat is to avoid the cat until it calms down. You should not try to comfort the cat by approaching it or picking it up. The cat should be left alone until it relaxes enough to eat, play, or show affectionate behavior. In some cases, several hours or more are required for the cat to settle down. The person who is injured by the defensively aggressive cat is one who did not heed the cat's warning signals. Children are often the victims & should be taught to recognize the pertinent body language and to respect the directive to "back off!".
Some cats exhibit this type of aggression toward strangers who visit the home. If the cat has grown up with limited experience with people other than the owners, it is more likely to fear visitors. It is also possible for a cat to adopt this attitude toward strangers if it was at one time mistreated or teased & therefore will be distrustful of anyone who is not "family".
To help a cat overcome its fear of strangers, it will be necessary to employ the time-tested principles of desensitization & counterconditioning. Recruit cat-loving friends to come over on a regular basis. It is important to minimize any behaviors that would frighten the cat (eg., loud voices & quick movements) & at the same time encourage a nonfearful behavior in the cat (eg., eating or playing). Ask your cat-friendly acquaintances to sit on the couch or even better, on the floor after entering your home. Give them your cat's favorite food treats which for training purposes, will only be offered by guests, not the family. If the cat will not approach the visitor, it can be tossed to him. A toy attached to a long fishing pole is another way to win over a reluctant puss. When Kitty begins to connect good times & good food with people who come through the door, the hissing will be replaced with purring. Patience & persistence, as always, pay off.
For the safety of your cat and you, don't ever consider letting him roam freely in the car while you drive. He could be thrown against the inside of the car in the event of a quick stop or he could distract the driver & cause a serious traffic accident. Kitty might feel more secure & consequently, ride more quietly, if you cover his crate with a towel while the car is in motion. You might have to experiment to see what works the best.
Before you leave home encourage Kitty to use the litterbox by pouring fresh litter into his box. Some cats that are not used to riding in the car eliminate in their carriers 10-20 minutes into the trip. If you think this is a possibility, buy some "puppy pads", absorbent, disposable pads (similar to disposable diapers) & line the bottom of the crate with them. In case of an "accident", the cleanup will be easy.
Your cat can go as long as you can without stretching his legs. After you stop, put on his leash for safety before you let him out into the car & offer him water & a litter break. Many cats have been lost at rest areas when the owners stopped for a break, by scooting out the door or through a crack in the window. His collar should be equipped with an identification tag containing the telephone number of someone who could be reached while you are on the road. It is also a good idea to carry an up-to-date photo of your cat for the purpose of making "lost cat" flyers in case the unthinkable happens. Cats for Dummies by Gina Spadafori and Paul Pion, DVM has many useful tips for traveling, among them are the following:
Never leave your cat unattended in a car--if the heat doesn't get him, a thief may. If you're traveling with your cat, your meals are mostly going to be of the drive-through variety. If you absolutely must leave your cat in the car--for your bathroom break, for example--park in the shade, roll the windows down a little & be quick--& we mean five minutes. Even better, take your cat & his carrier in the stall with you. He has seen you there before; he's not going to be shocked. If you want to kick around for a while, shopping & sightseeing, & still make sure your cat is safe, look up a local veterinarian in the phone book & see whether you can make arrangements for a few hour's boarding...Most veterinarians are very amenable to helping out--usually at a very reasonable cost. You can also leave your pet in your motel room--but always in a crate for safety.
If your cat cannot travel in the cabin with you, it will ride in the baggage hold. Although this compartment is pressurized & the extremes of temperature are regulated, it is still a good idea to travel during the coolest part of the day in the summer--the early morning or late evening. Choose a non-stop flight & request that your cat be hand-carried to & from the plane. Make sure your USDA-approved shipping crate is marked with contact persons at both the departure & arrival sites & has sturdy handles that won't come off during handling. Make sure all the bolts securing the halves of the carrier are in place & tightened. Your pet should be wearing an identification tag on an elastic collar. If the trip is longer than six hours, you will want to have dry food & ice cubes in untippable dishes in the carrier. Be sure to talk directly to the freight handling personnel at the airport. Make the staff check & report back. (Most pet fatalities occur on the ground, when animals are left in their crates on the hot tarmac or in stifling cargo holds.)
Be aware that there are regulations regarding the range of temperatures when a pet may be shipped. If the temperature on the ground in your departing, connecting, or arriving city falls outside these limits, you may run into unexpected delays or cancellations. It is also wise to avoid peak travel times around holidays when air traffic is heaviest.
It is generally better not to have your cat tranquilized before flying. The combination of high altitude & limited oxygen is a challenge your pet's body is better prepared to meet if he is not sedated.
The Air Transport Association has a free booklet, Air Travel for Your Dog or Cat. It is available by sending a self-addressed, stamped, business-sized envelope to: ATA, 1301 Pennsylvania Blvd. N.W., Suite 1100, Washington, D.C. 20004.
Some Additional Tips on Airline Travel with Kitty...
These unique ideas on how to keep your cat safe while flying are published in the book, 277 Secrets Your Cat Wants You to Know by Paulette Cooper and Paul Noble. They are recommendations from Bud Brownhill of Anaheim, California, the chairman of DO-IT, a pet travel advisory organization.
* Talk to a supervisor when you get to the airport and tell him you have an extremely valuable pet in terms of dollars--even if it's a mixed breed. "Otherwise, some baggage handlers couldn't care if you were carrying a rock."
* Personalize your cat to the handlers. Put signs on the crate saying, "Hi! I am a Persian kitten. This is my first trip. Please handle my crate carefully."
* When you board a plane, tell the pilot that you have a cat in the hold worth a lot of money--even if it isn't. Also, tell them to make sure to turn on the heat & pressurization in the cargo compartment. "This is done from the cockpit & someone may have forgotten to give the pilot that information.." Cargo compartments can get as hot as 140 degrees & intense cold can be just as damaging to your cat.
* Put large strips of red or orange fluorescent material all over the crate "so you can spot it halfway across the airport & your cat won't get mixed up with anything else." Put arrows or the words "Top" and "Live Animal" on top of the crate so your cat doesn't fly upside down.
* Put your home addresses & phone numbers, plus those of where you're going, inside & outside the crate, because many people won't reach into a kennel for fear of being scratched or bitten.
* Watch the ticket clerk attach the destination tags at the airport. "Make sure it says 'Detroit' if you're going there."
* Make certain your pet is loaded last, especially during extreme weather conditions. This may also ensure that he is taken off the plane first.
* Make sure the airline is not carrying dry ice, which can be deadly if your cat is crated near it.
* Avoid flying at the busiest times, so your cat can get more personal attention.
* Ask the airline if you can watch your cat being loaded & unloaded at the cargo hold.
Once you arrive at your lodging for the night & have brought in your luggage as well as Kitty in his carrier, don't let him out until you have set up his litterbox. (He may feel the need to use it soon after exiting his crate.) Next, set out his food & water & include something particularly delicious to help him feel good about his temporary "home away from home". He may not eat until later in the night or even the next morning, but his sense of well-being will be reinforced just by having it available.
Be considerate of the housekeeping services in the motel. Your cat's stay there may determine how welcome or unwelcome other companion pets will be at this establishment in the future. If your cat sleeps with you, take along a used sheet or a favorite blanket for him from home. This will help to settle him as well as to keep his fur off the motel's bedding. Place a towel or mat under the food & water bowls & pour the used litter into a plastic bag & seal it. Remember that the management is able to access all the unoccupied rooms, so if you leave your room, put out the "Do Not Disturb" sign. It might also be wise to put Kitty in the carrier while you are gone-- just in case. Before you check out the next morning, don't forget to leave a generous tip for the maids. They will appreciate your thoughtfulness & it will help to compensate them for any extra clean-up.
The most challenging part of the motel stay will undoubtedly be "lights out"time. You may be exhausted after a day's journey, but your cat has spent many boring hours almost motionless in his carrier. He may be ready to party! This is where the fishing pole toy comes in handy. While you are resting in a comfortable chair or on your bed, you can give Kitty some aerobic exercise. In fact, you will want to keep him moving until he is ready to "drop". If you are successful, you will all get a good night's sleep. If you are not, you will have to resort to locking your rambunctious kitty in the bathroom for the night. Don't feel guilty. After all, he can sleep the next day but you have to drive.
* AAA and Mobil travel guides note where pets are welcome.
